The orange wire on the fuel pump relay has only 8 volts! That can't be right, can it?

Well, from orange wire in fuel pump relay to the battery negative is definitely showing 8 volts... across battery is definitely 12, so it's not the meter.

Anyone know where that orange wire gets its voltage? and where the other side gets its ground?

Maybe I don't have to tear open all the wiring harness plastic to try to trace it?

Anyway, I wasn't getting any fuel, found the main power wire routed around the big block connector and chaffing through the hole where there's a secondary lock mechanism for the hood (is that standard?) had 3 crimp connections (a removal of remote security or something, no clue why it was like that) removed that crud, added a metal button to fill the firewall holed drilled with rubber grommet, soldered that new red 12 gauge wire under the hood, ran it through the grommet, crimped to where it came off... voila, fuel pressure after cranking

I could also hear the fuel pump run on turning the key, but only with the battery charger boost connected for when turning it over.

still concerned about 8 volts...may burn out my new pump...

any tips on solving this are appreciated - could 8 volts be correct? no way, right?

 

Got me here man I'd like to know too. You prolly got a bad wire. I'd test the original line and double check the power wire and ground wire as well making sure it is t crimped down. Because remember if you got power your good but if you don't it just may be that wire.

 

I replaced the main power wire which had 3 crimped connectors which went through a firewall hole next to an auxilary hood latch (with a key I don't have) and was chaffed and green... after pulling out the hood latch, finding a metal button and rubber grommet to fit, I ran 12 gauge (appears to be same size) soldered under the hood with a torch (looked fairly clean using tinning flux and plain lead solder), but couldn't do that under the dash, so it is crimped there.

After doing that, magically, the fuel pump did work when oil pressure came up, so I could find out I have one leaking injector (this project is the final stages after doing the head gasket, and refurb Bosch injectors )

Still, only 8 volts at the fuel pump relay.

It clearly appears to be some other guys hack after pulling out a security system with remote starter - but also, the main connector at the firewall looks like crap, so maybe it was done only for that, perhaps I will have to take that apart and clean it...or something else - tear apart the wiring harness to find what the hell other surprises may be there

too irritated with it to do anything for several days now...

I just don't even know where to start... it has to be something simple, but may be hard to find

 

Replaced main power line. It was clearly rerouted (cut from the firewall plug) through this hole without a grommet, and had (three!) corroded crimp connectors and the green, corroded chaffed part going through a big lower hole in the firewall which had a secondary hood lock.... removed and replaced with 12 gauge...and voila, pump works again...

 

 

oh yeah, and I fixed the leaking injector... my fault, I pinched an oring on assembly, and actually found the piece I cut off the oring with the rack... so all is well there...that baby should run soon, as soon as I figure out the new no-ignition problem which I suspect is just the anti-theft system...hopefully

 

I love that car you have there! what's with those custom intake holes? what have you got under there?

 

Those are the stock hood louvers. It's the just the angle of the photo that makes them look more open. I never noticed it until you mentioned it.