Quick Q- Bird Headlight Connector
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 88 GTA Notchback
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: don't know
Quick Q- Bird Headlight Connector
The connector for my headlight bulbs are literally falling apart. I am looking at getting the Dorman 84790 Headlight connector kit . Will this work?
Also, How are the headlight bulb wires properly routed?
Thanx in advance
Also, How are the headlight bulb wires properly routed?
Thanx in advance
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Lawrence KS
Car: 91 z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
Re: Quick Q- Bird Headlight Connector
I'm showing Dorman 85810 years covered 67-90 or Standard Motor Products S-526
Don't splice the wires, just depin and only swap the connectors.
Don't splice the wires, just depin and only swap the connectors.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 808
Likes: 5
From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 88 GTA Notchback
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: don't know
Re: Quick Q- Bird Headlight Connector
thats the thing. The actual plastic housing is good, its the pins/wires that are breaking.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Lawrence KS
Car: 91 z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
Re: Quick Q- Bird Headlight Connector
Ahh.. the wire routing question makes more sense now. I can't tell you on the routing as I simply don't know.
I would just replace the terminals (available arguably anywhere) and do something to keep the where the wire enters the terminal as straight and rigid as possible. This is the fail point of any wiring system and the fact that the motion of the light turning the connector into a "hinge" doesn't help.
Without seeing the connector, I was thinking to heat shrink each wire (and as much as the terminal as possible) where the wire enters the terminal. I don't know how far the terminal is recessed into the connector. I would then band (tape) all of the wires
together. Then add a Raychem heat shrink boot. I would then route the wire behind the light so its loose as possible without any chance of chaffing.
Raychem dealer
http://www.prowireusa.com/c-38-202a-straight.aspx
I would just replace the terminals (available arguably anywhere) and do something to keep the where the wire enters the terminal as straight and rigid as possible. This is the fail point of any wiring system and the fact that the motion of the light turning the connector into a "hinge" doesn't help.
Without seeing the connector, I was thinking to heat shrink each wire (and as much as the terminal as possible) where the wire enters the terminal. I don't know how far the terminal is recessed into the connector. I would then band (tape) all of the wires
together. Then add a Raychem heat shrink boot. I would then route the wire behind the light so its loose as possible without any chance of chaffing.
Raychem dealer
http://www.prowireusa.com/c-38-202a-straight.aspx
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