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I'm getting desperate and frustrated with this car. It's a Carb 350 swap with t5 and I used a harness made by pocket. I've bypassed the starter enable relay and I've replaced the lock cylinder with a non vats one.
When I attempt to start I get nothing. Only thing that comes on is my hazards and seat belt lights. No headlights or even gauge lights and I already replaced the bulbs. How do I check the ignition switch on the column? Where would I go to see if the headlights are getting power? And lastly for now, is there a way to check that the Intank fuel pump is good??
I just checked for power at my purple wire on the starter solenoid and nothing. I'm thinking it's my ignition switch but am not sure how to test it.
After messing around under the dash It looks like I'm missing the part of the clutch safety switch that should be attached to the pedal. I also noticed the switch on the brake pedal is broke which must be why I've got no brake lights.
What fuel system was original to the car, high pressure TPI pump or low pressure TBI pump? For either, you will need a fuel pressure regulator to reduce fuel pressure to a max of about 7 lbs. from the approximately 15 psi of a TBI fuel pump or the over 50 psi of the TPI pump. It is not advisable to use a TPI pump with a carb due to the high pressure. Does the starter crank? You are using a vacuum advance HEI distributor and you do have power going to it, correct? Being a carb, you should be able to see if it is getting gas very easily, just look down the throat of the carb and actuate the throttle. You should see a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump. As for the no power to starter, you need to connect the clutch safety switch and depress the clutch or jumper it out to test but be sure you are in neutral before cranking. HTH!
What fuel system was original to the car, high pressure TPI pump or low pressure TBI pump? For either, you will need a fuel pressure regulator to reduce fuel pressure to a max of about 7 lbs. from the approximately 15 psi of a TBI fuel pump or the over 50 psi of the TPI pump. It is not advisable to use a TPI pump with a carb due to the high pressure. Does the starter crank? You are using a vacuum advance HEI distributor and you do have power going to it, correct? Being a carb, you should be able to see if it is getting gas very easily, just look down the throat of the carb and actuate the throttle. You should see a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump. As for the no power to starter, you need to connect the clutch safety switch and depress the clutch or jumper it out to test but be sure you are in neutral before cranking. HTH!
It was a 305 tbi- I've already got a Mallory 4309 hooked up. Also non ccc quadrajet vacuum advance distributor. I spliced the yellow and purple wires of the clutch safety switch together to bypass the safety for now. No crank as I'm not getting power to my purple wire to The starter. I'm thinking my ignition switch is bad. And I don't hear the pump coming on.
Check your other thread, I responded with a link to drawings you can follow. I looked real quick and did see some fusible links for the headlights and various other accessories. The drawings have wire colors for circuits and also fusible link colors (rating). HTH!
Check your other thread, I responded with a link to drawings you can follow. I looked real quick and did see some fusible links for the headlights and various other accessories. The drawings have wire colors for circuits and also fusible link colors (rating). HTH!
I just put power to both headlight motors and they closed. (Had them manually opened.) I'm thinking its its in my column or ignition switch that's not sending power to each part. Are fusable links needed in a non ccc carb engine?
Yes, fusible links are necessary for any high power circuit such as the starter circuit, headlight circuit, charging and any other circuit that controls high current where a fuse is not suitable. Even my 65 Chevelle has fusible links for some of the circuits.
Yes, fusible links are necessary for any high power circuit such as the starter circuit, headlight circuit, charging and any other circuit that controls high current where a fuse is not suitable. Even my 65 Chevelle has fusible links for some of the circuits.
Ok do I just splice them in the appropriate spots? One thing I was also wondering about is the oil pressure sensor-the current carbed engine doesn't have one though the way I understand it is older carbed engine didn't and it's just used as a safety for start up but isn't needed to run?
The fusible links should be spliced in as close to the power source as possible, to protect the wiring as much as possible. The oil pressure switch is not necessary with a carbed motor or any motor for that matter. It's purpose is to keep the fuel pump running if the ECM fails (limp mode) or the fuel pump relay fails and thus, no power to the fuel pump from the ECM. Older mechanical fuel pumps worked as long as the motor was turning so the "newer" design kind of mimicks that via the oil pressure switch (motor turning makes oil pressure which provides a circuit to power the fuel pump). HTH!
When you did the harness swap, what did you do with the old harness? If you still have it, there are threads here that explain exactly what wires you need to retain. You could strip the old harness down and place it back into the engine bay using the factory wiring to correct your problems. Just a thought.
When you did the harness swap, what did you do with the old harness? If you still have it, there are threads here that explain exactly what wires you need to retain. You could strip the old harness down and place it back into the engine bay using the factory wiring to correct your problems. Just a thought.
I've got the old harness in my garage but i must have read every thread on this swap and there is a good bit not mentioned. Everyone says you can throw the engine harness away but they neglected to mention that there's several wires that connect with others in the car.
This is one of the connectors you probably removed, it is split between engine and chassis sections. Maybe this will help with determining what wires you need or what portion of your original harness you need to retrieve. See what you can make of this:
This is one of the connectors you probably removed, it is split between engine and chassis sections. Maybe this will help with determining what wires you need or what portion of your original harness you need to retrieve. See what you can make of this:
I had a new harness made by forum member Pocket and obviously he'd be the one to ask about my wiring woes but he hasn't been on the forum for months. Anyways his harness came with a new c100 but with only the wires I would need for the carb swap.
I've been working on other things on the car but still having a no crank issue. New starter and ignition switch as well as a working complete column. Still no power to the purple wire on the starter solenoid with key on. My purple wire goes from the solenoid to the c100 connector and the smaller red wire in the same terminal ends up at a relay. Does this sound right?
Starter circuit goes from ignition switch to neutral safety/clutch switch to starter relay (for VATS) and on to solenoid at starter, so yeah that sounds right. The starter relay is energized by the ECM if the VATS circuit reports everything ok to the ECM. You can jumper the starter relay to by-pass VATs for cranking but the ECM will not energize the fuel pump relay so no fuel pressure if VATS is not ok. HTH!
Have you ever checked the Yellow wire at the clutch switch with the key turned to RUN ?? If there's no power on the Yellow wire ( in RUN ) - there will never be any power on the Purple !
Your car had VATS, right ?? I'm guessing that you already removed/bypassed the Starter Enable Relay now that you don't have an ECM ??
[QUOTE=John in RI;6007204]Have you ever checked the Yellow wire at the clutch switch with the key turned to RUN ?? If there's no power on the Yellow wire ( in RUN ) - there will never be any power on the Purple !
Your car had VATS, right ?? I'm guessing that you already removed/bypassed the Starter Enable Relay now that you don't have an ECM ??
Yes it's an 89 so it originally had vats. Ivebylwssed the starter enable relay and it had a column it of a 86 so no chipped key. As for fuel I have a harness made by forum member Pocket so that should be taken care of. I also bypassed he clutch switch but ill double check today if the yellow wire is getting power.
i was just thinking-the purple wire on the starter solenoid goes to the neutral safety switch which is bypassed wouldn't that mean there's no way it would transmit 12v to the ignition switch or am I wrong?
Nvm that would defeat the purpose of the bypass. Just a thought.
i was just thinking-the purple wire on the starter solenoid goes to the neutral safety switch which is bypassed wouldn't that mean there's no way it would transmit 12v to the ignition switch or am I wrong?
Nvm that would defeat the purpose of the bypass. Just a thought.
The ignition switch gets power IN from the engine bay,....sends it to the enable relay, then to the clutch switch, then the Purple wire is power back OUT to the solenoid.
You shouldn't bypass the clutch switch,......
You are supposed to bypass the Starter Enable Relay.
I can clearly see the Purple Starter Solenoid wire in this picture, make sure that it's plugged back together as it should be.
Find the Starter Enable Relay and bypass it. ( Cut/splice the 2 largest wires together. )
Check for 12 volts on Yellow Clutch Switch wire when key is in START ( Think I said RUN before ! ) If no 12 volts then Ignition Box on column is suspect, bypass didn't work or miss-match of C100.
If yellow has 12 volts,.... .push clutch and try to start in 'N'. If still no start and yellow has 12 volts with key in START test the clutch switch; Probe purple wire when holding switch down with key in Start. If 12 on yellow and no 12 on purple when button is down - button is NG.
** If you STILL DON'T find the problem before you get to this point, you might want to try this,......
Disconnect the Clutch switch; 'Jumping' 12 volts to the purple wire at the clutch switch (in your pic) should cause the Starter Solenoid to crank........ ( use heavy gauge Jumper wire - in N, ) If it doesn't crank than apply 12 volts to the purple wire again and check the solenoid end of the wire for 12 volts. This will tell you if the Purple wires are correctly matched @ C100.
10-24-2015, 02:40 PM
) If no 12 volts then Ignition Box on column is suspect, bypass didn't work or miss-match of C100.
) If it doesn't crank than apply 12 volts to the purple wire again and check the solenoid end of the wire for 12 volts. This will tell you if the Purple wires are correctly matched @ C100. 