Hey guys first post here. So I came across this relatively low mileage firebird wasting away and I thought I could save it. It's a formula 350 auto of course it had a factory goodwrench alarm removed by he previous owner. Engine turns over I have power at the coil the ICM was removed and checks out to be good. I have no spark at the coil. Test light reveals power to both pink wires. I had a spare coil from my 92 camaro that's Know to be good still no fire. I feel like it has something to do with the removed alarm but with the coil getting power I'm at a bit of a loss oh and fuel pump defiantly runs and I can smell gas when trying to start it.

 

So you have +12 V at the coil , and have tried a known good coil , and still have no spark , yes ?

First and foremost , the ICM . DO NOT take any autoparts store test results as 100% proof positive of a perfectly functional ICM ! Those tests lie , A LOT , and are not to be trusted . What I would do if I were you here is , I'd do an Ohms check of the pickup coil to make sure it is in fact still functional as a pickup coil (a search here will reveal the test procedures for the pickup coil) . Now , if the pickup coil tests good with your meter , and your sure you have your +12 at the big coil where it oughta be , and your also sure you have a good big coil like you said and you've also checked that the distributor does in fact turn when you crank the starter , then the ICM will again be the most logical suspect . Whenever I buy a new ICM I try to make damned sure it isn't a store return where some customer has already bought , fried , & then returned it , and I also throw away the little bit of monkeyslime they include for heat sink compound and I go to my local radio shack and buy the good expensive heat sink compound (sometimes called "thermal paste") that the computer guys use on their CPUs and use that .

Good luck with it and welcome to TGO .

 

PS , forgot to add ;

My above post assumes that the small wires at the distributor that run to the ignition coil are in place and not butchered as part of the former alarm system . They are likely fine but give them a looking at to make sure they look present & uncut .

 

Generally with most after market alarms, far as the box goes, they tend to be wired to the lights under the dash and to the starter signal wire going to the relay. That's about it, most alarms including the Good Wrench are fairly basic. On my 4th gen that was really about it, it also had some wire running to the keyless entry module I had to remove.