So this morning I noticed that my INFL REST light wouldn't go off, I'm going to be bringing it in Friday to a car care place, but I need to drive the car in the meantime and would like to do so without worrying about an airbag misfiring into my face as I've already experienced the wonders of this so called "Safety bag" when some lady T-Boned me in a roundabout in my Civic going 50 mph in a 25 zone.

From what I've found I need to remove the SIR fuse, is there only one fuse for the airbag in a 92' Camaro?

Then I need to unplug the yellow wire that goes into the steering column, can anyone elaborate on this a bit more? I can't seem to find this wire anywhere and my steering column is completely closed off, not sure if this matters.

After I complete these two steps, is that all I need in order to keep my airbag from being able to deploy?

Also, can I just simply remove the front of the steering wheel where the airbag is stored and drive without it installed? Or does it need the metal chassis that the bag is stored in for some sort of grounding?

Don't get me wrong, this WILL be fixed, I think it's just a bad sensor. But this is my daily driver and I do need to use it for the one day before it can be fixed. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

If an air bag code has been stored the system will automatically not allow for an air bag deployment under any condition for safety reasons. If it makes you feel better, go ahead and pull the fuse, but that is as far as I would recommend you go. There is no need to start unplugging the air bag or removing it. You have more chances of messing it up then leaving it alone.

 

Hopefully a code is the case, this car's codes reset every time it's turned off and back on, it's ridiculous honestly. It took ages to figure out what the heck the code was for the engine light, turns out the EGR went bad. Cracked in the diaphragm.

I wasn't sure because some folk say that when the light was stuck on their bags deployed when they weren't supposed to. Are you sure if the system is messed up that it can't misfire?

 

Well I am a guy that says: "never say never". My experience with air bags comes from late 90's and 200's as a GM tech. For legality reasons if the SRS system detects a fault and sets a code it disables the air bag and will not all an event to occur. I had a carpet cleaning van come in that was so corroded from humidity on the inside that the air bag module and harness was green with corrosion, but was smart enough to set a code and disable the system. All I am saying is that if you are going to mess with taking stuff apart, you better know what you are doing. When ever I would do air bag repairs and column work, i would always wear a grounding strap (I have seen what happens when someone doesnt). I personally feel you are safer leaving it alone and getting it fixed as soon as you can, rather than removing parts and unplugging things.

 

Well, I had my dad's help. He's rebuilt cars before (did his entire '67 Mustang on his own) and we asked the mechanic ahead of time as well. We found the correct yellow wire and just simply unplugged it from the harness and covered it with electrical tape just to be safe. I mean it has a GIANT warning sticker that labels it as the air bag power supply so it was pretty simple once we looked at it. We also removed the fuse just to be extra safe. We wanted to make sure no power was going to it in the slightest. We had it diagnosed and apparently the computer is bringing up 6 different codes so the mechanic is like 99.9% sure that my air bag module just went kapoot since it's reading so many error codes at once. We're gonna buy a used one and have the mechanic stick it in for us and see if it fixes the issue. He actually thought my clock spring might have been bad since my horn wasn't working but I explained to him that my air bag chassis is so dang shrunk that you just actually can't reach the buttons when you push on it XD we've inspected it and replaced it in the past so that problem we already knew about.

It's exact codes were 71, 12, 34, 41, and 42. The 12 and 34 are the normal system check codes from what I understand so those don't technically count. Every single one of these is a voltage/power or grounding wire error... I have the little description sheets on me.

 

Trimming away some of that old warped cream colored plastic from around the back of the horn push location making honking the horn way easier and keeps from having to mash it so hard to work that you continually break the horn buttons. It also can alieve the upper side curling that looks weird. I've got some good spare air bags if you can't find one wherever you are
Henry