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Can someone help me fix the last of the electrical issues:
Issues:
1. Stereo, cigarette lighter intermittently cuts out... might actually be the whole accessory circuit cutting out but I didn't test the horn or hatch when the stereo and lighter didn't work.
2. interior lights and dash cluster lights intermittently cuts out... sometimes some and sometimes all
3. no high beams
Other issues as a note since they may be related but I'm not too worried about these yet:
4. voltmeter has no reading
5. speedometer has no reading
Recent changes for things that never worked:
- new deck and cigarette lighter
Symptoms, changes and testing:
For issues 1 and 2:
- Fuses are all good (pulled and tested each of them) but most of the words are worn off
- Slamming the door cuts out the stereo etc.
- Playing with the headlamp switch cuts out the stereo and there is a relay clicking as it turns back on under the pass side dash
For issue 3:
- Jumped the high beam switch harness on the steering column... yellow wires sends a signal all the way through to the lights for low beam but does not make it to the lights for high beams (green and brown wires)
Plan from searching the forums:
- Going to replace the dash mounted headlamp switch
- Going to check stereo wiring to ensure I have the illumination and ground connected properly
Any help, ideas, or an explanation on how the stereo and headlamp switch are connected would be greatly appreciated!
Stereo, cigarette lighter interior lights intermittently cuts out... might actually be the whole accessory circuit cutting out but I didn't test the horn or hatch when the stereo and lighter didn't work
That is consistent with an intermittent voltage flow at the ACC circuit.
Try wiggling wires before and after the ACC fuse.
Due to the fact the words have been worn off the fuse holder, seems like it was worked on way too much.
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Voltmeter & Speedo
If the other gages work the problem is internal.
You’re gonna’ hafta’ open the dash.
Now using a voltmeter probe back from the + input to the dash meter to find the break.
However if there is power on the dash meter, it’s either broken or its’ ground side is disconnected.
Hopefully the speedo’s problem is the same.
If not,
Gain access to the buffer.
It’s located behind the instrument panel at the right.
Connect an audio amplifier to terminal A yellow wire to make sure it’s getting a steady signal.
Ground to ground, the signal wire to terminal A yellow wire of the VSS.
With the car on jackstands listen for a hum from the amplifier when the rear wheels are rotating.
If you do, then find out if you get a hum from terminal C tan wire.
The tan wire then goes to the speedometer unit.
If it gets to the speedometer but the speedometer does not work, have it repaired or replace the unit.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing ! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
If Speed Limits Were Any Lower The Signs Would Be Underground
Thanks for the info!
Yup the hatch and horn were out too. The stereo install problem (yeah I installed it) was messing with the whole ACC circuit as I had the brown deck ground wire going to the brown illumination wire on the car instead of the black ground wire on the car and it was making all the trouble grounding back to the switch etc.
Now to figure out the speedometer and volt meter as per your instructions above and replace the pass window motor (power all the way to the motor) as that just stopped working too. As for the high beams... no idea.
Thanks for the guidance on the dash... what's the "buffer"?
The buffer receives the pulses from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).
The buffer takes the low amplitude output of the VSS and amplifies the signal so it is strong enuff to send info to the speedo, cruise control, and on some VINS, the ECM.
On some VINS, the buffer is in the ECM unit.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing ! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
If Speed Limits Were Any Lower The Signs Would Be Underground
08-02-2017, 10:47 AM
