Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

So i've been pouring through diagrams and running back and forth from the 'puter to the garage. So, the black wire that carries power from the switch at the center console, through the harness, all the way to the hatch release itself has come loose. I confirmed 12 volts at this wire when the switch is pressed at the console. Problem is I can't actually find where it came loose from? I see no empty pigtail holes, no open terminals, etc. etc. It's just floating there, lol. I would think it would connect to the release mechanism itself, but I can't confirm that. Can't find a diagram and I can't physically SEE the mechanism because it's at the tumbler behind the pull down assembly. I DO see an orange and white wire going to the release mechanism, but I don't know if there's supposed to be a black wire too. I'm still googling...

Car is an 89 Iroc.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

The black wire plugs in at the end of the release solenoid. See the right side of this image (this is the back side that you can't see when it's attached):

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Yep, just found it! ...not sure how I missed that. So it's not working. I'm assuming it PULLS the cable, right? I get nothing. I do have 12v.

Might be bad....it's probably original.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Is it clicking at all? Yeah, judging by the design the solenoid pushes outward which in turn pulls on the cable. If it's not making any sort of sound you should check for continuity between the body and ground. Otherwise it may be weak, or the cable could be stiff. Or any other combination of stiffness which makes it hard to pop. I suppose a final test could be to put a meter between the positive and the solenoid connector to see how many amps it's drawing.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Always been a manual transmission or is the car converted? If it was a 5spd originally, you'll have to pull the e-brake to pop the trunk. If it's a conversion, one of the wires from the auto shifter has to be rerouted... Tan/black to ground or the ebrake switch, IIRC.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Drew....you're correct to assume that, but I've jumped the harness at the switch pigtail to supply 12v. Bypassed the relay and everything just to test. I'll have to find a final solution once the problem is found. Now its wired direct from the orange always hot, directly to the black wire going back to the release solenoid. Meter reads 12v back at the solenoid. didn't check amps.

Cable is smooth, no kinks. -No sound at all. Not a thing. I found two grounds for various different electronics back there, and both check out fine with the MM.

Could it simply be a bad solenoid?

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Could be. Check resistance between the positive side and ground. Solenoids are essentially just coils of wire creating an electromagnet, if it reads open circuit then the solenoid is junk. Not sure what a good resistance would be, if any. Did you actually check the body of the solenoid where it bolts down for good ground, or just the grounds for the other hatch items?

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Do you still have the ground jumper wire running from the solenoid mounting bolt to the tail light ground? Without it, the solenoid is insulated by the plastic pulldown guides.

PS - I've never, ever, ever, seen the solenoid stop working. It's just an electro-magnet. Could always ground the solenoid body and hit the terminal with a jumper wire to 12v+ to test.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I DO have that ground from the solenoid to the body.... though I do NOT see where it grounds to the body ....could be a bad ground or not grounded at all. I'll check. ....and no I did NOT test that ground wire obviously, but now I have something to check, lol. Done for the night though....I'll check it tomorrow.

Thanks guys.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

FIXED!!!!!!!! -Everything works.

Turned out to be a ground issue. That solenoid ground WAS hooked up, but I couldn't see where it actually grounded (it was all wound up in the harness). I made a new ground wire with a new ground to the body and everything works just fine.

Next issue is that I have the physical switch wired straight to constant power, so I run the risk of opening while driving. Hmmmm....gotta work that out. Was an auto car originally, so I would've had power from the shifter in P/N. That switch is long gone. ...I do still have the parking brake switch, but have yet to test it and see how and what it does. Might be a solution there. BUT in the meantime....it works.