Starter issue
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Yokota US Air Base, Tokyo Japan
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Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto 4L60
Starter issue
Getting single click...more over an intermittent single click; sometimes starts right away, sometimes half a dozen or so turns of the ignition switch. Metered all the wires from starter to battery, starter to ground, battery to ground, disconnected, cleaned, reconnected wires, changed starter relay, jumped starter relay, new battery, new starter and solenoid...NOTHING helped.
What am I missing?
What am I missing?
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mooresville NC
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Car Is Not Cranky . . . . SO I AM !!!!!!
Use a spare headlight (because it puts a load on the circuit) and connect it across the M terminal of the starter and ground.
(Use a real headlight, not a LED sled, not HID’s meant to help the Mr. Magoos squint out to see where they’re going.)
Connect a voltmeter across the M terminal of the starter and battery ▬.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Smacked The Wall With The Side Of The Car Because A Narrower Car Is A Faster Car
(Use a real headlight, not a LED sled, not HID’s meant to help the Mr. Magoos squint out to see where they’re going.)
Connect a voltmeter across the M terminal of the starter and battery ▬.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Smacked The Wall With The Side Of The Car Because A Narrower Car Is A Faster Car
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Yokota US Air Base, Tokyo Japan
Posts: 43
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Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto 4L60
Re: Starter issue
Never underestimate the obvious AND basic....found the fault after removing and thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces of the starter and engine. OPS CHECK GOOD.
#5
Re: Starter issue
gentlemen i so appreciate ya'lls responses to my dilemma.. to take the time out of your day to lend a helping hand on this holiday season is a god send. i will try everything ya'll have suggested...thank you kindly and may you all as well as your families have a blessed christmas and an even betteer new year