Head light and fog light circuit
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 5
From: Hamilton, NJ
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700r4 3000 stall non-lockup
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt Rear 3.73
Head light and fog light circuit
Does the driver headlight share the same circuit as the passenger headlight? Or is it possible to loose power to just the driver side.
Also, same question as above but for fog light? Is the driver fog light on the same circuit as passasger?
Asking because both my driverside headlight and fog light blew at the same time and don't know if it's a coincidence or a damaged wire somewhere
Also, same question as above but for fog light? Is the driver fog light on the same circuit as passasger?
Asking because both my driverside headlight and fog light blew at the same time and don't know if it's a coincidence or a damaged wire somewhere
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,916
Likes: 2,448
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Head light and fog light circuit
D00d...
Yes it's probably due to a "damaged wire somewhere". DUHHHH.
We've all seen like A MILLION posts on this forum from you, wherein you bought a RACE CAR that somebody had already thouroughly SODOMIZED, and now you want to turn it back into a daily-driver sort of thing.
Not that ANY of that is "bad", "wrong", "misdirected", or any such; just...
When people buy a trashed-out shell and turn it into a "race car", they're not gonna be worrying about things like hatch pull-down motors, power seats, AC, headlights, or ANY NUMBER of other things that don't contribute to "race car" -ness. They'll just slash-and-burn RIGHT THROUGH all that other stuff in their pursuit of low ET or lap times or whatever. It's PHUCT now.
NONE OF US out here is going to have THE SLIGHTEST IDEA of what those people took their dykes to. NONE. We cannot help you other than to tell you trivial stuff like, when you post that the headlights don't work, "look at the headlight wiring". You can post all day long and into the wee hours of the night, and NEVER get any clearer answer than that. At some point, YOU just gotta get up off yer BUTT, quit posting weeeeeeek-a$$ crap on the Interwebz, and get out there and TRACE THE WIRES, and see what they cut / slashed / twisted together / burned / spliced / tore out / WHATEVER, because THERE'S NO WAY any of us out here that CAN'T SEE YOUR CAR like you ALONE can, is gonna be able to tell any better than YOU can, what they did to it. Best we can do is GUESS, and that's probably not as good as what YOU can do YOURSELF, seeing as how YOU are the only one who can LOOK AT IT and SEE IT and spot what they did.
So, stop posting crap like this, and USE YOUR EYES. No doubt you have already acquired the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car, like you've been told about a hundred times already: just get up off of yer keyboard and LOOK AT your car, and compare it to your FSM. Make whatever you see that's NOT like what the FSM says, JUST LIKE what the FSM says. None of us out here can tell you any better than that what to do to unHACK your sodomized HACKED wiring. Just get out there and UN-HACK it.
Yes it's probably due to a "damaged wire somewhere". DUHHHH.
We've all seen like A MILLION posts on this forum from you, wherein you bought a RACE CAR that somebody had already thouroughly SODOMIZED, and now you want to turn it back into a daily-driver sort of thing.
Not that ANY of that is "bad", "wrong", "misdirected", or any such; just...
When people buy a trashed-out shell and turn it into a "race car", they're not gonna be worrying about things like hatch pull-down motors, power seats, AC, headlights, or ANY NUMBER of other things that don't contribute to "race car" -ness. They'll just slash-and-burn RIGHT THROUGH all that other stuff in their pursuit of low ET or lap times or whatever. It's PHUCT now.
NONE OF US out here is going to have THE SLIGHTEST IDEA of what those people took their dykes to. NONE. We cannot help you other than to tell you trivial stuff like, when you post that the headlights don't work, "look at the headlight wiring". You can post all day long and into the wee hours of the night, and NEVER get any clearer answer than that. At some point, YOU just gotta get up off yer BUTT, quit posting weeeeeeek-a$$ crap on the Interwebz, and get out there and TRACE THE WIRES, and see what they cut / slashed / twisted together / burned / spliced / tore out / WHATEVER, because THERE'S NO WAY any of us out here that CAN'T SEE YOUR CAR like you ALONE can, is gonna be able to tell any better than YOU can, what they did to it. Best we can do is GUESS, and that's probably not as good as what YOU can do YOURSELF, seeing as how YOU are the only one who can LOOK AT IT and SEE IT and spot what they did.
So, stop posting crap like this, and USE YOUR EYES. No doubt you have already acquired the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car, like you've been told about a hundred times already: just get up off of yer keyboard and LOOK AT your car, and compare it to your FSM. Make whatever you see that's NOT like what the FSM says, JUST LIKE what the FSM says. None of us out here can tell you any better than that what to do to unHACK your sodomized HACKED wiring. Just get out there and UN-HACK it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 5
From: Hamilton, NJ
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700r4 3000 stall non-lockup
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt Rear 3.73
Re: Head light and fog light circuit
D00d...
Yes it's probably due to a "damaged wire somewhere". DUHHHH.
We've all seen like A MILLION posts on this forum from you, wherein you bought a RACE CAR that somebody had already thouroughly SODOMIZED, and now you want to turn it back into a daily-driver sort of thing.
Not that ANY of that is "bad", "wrong", "misdirected", or any such; just...
When people buy a trashed-out shell and turn it into a "race car", they're not gonna be worrying about things like hatch pull-down motors, power seats, AC, headlights, or ANY NUMBER of other things that don't contribute to "race car" -ness. They'll just slash-and-burn RIGHT THROUGH all that other stuff in their pursuit of low ET or lap times or whatever. It's PHUCT now.
NONE OF US out here is going to have THE SLIGHTEST IDEA of what those people took their dykes to. NONE. We cannot help you other than to tell you trivial stuff like, when you post that the headlights don't work, "look at the headlight wiring". You can post all day long and into the wee hours of the night, and NEVER get any clearer answer than that. At some point, YOU just gotta get up off yer BUTT, quit posting weeeeeeek-a$$ crap on the Interwebz, and get out there and TRACE THE WIRES, and see what they cut / slashed / twisted together / burned / spliced / tore out / WHATEVER, because THERE'S NO WAY any of us out here that CAN'T SEE YOUR CAR like you ALONE can, is gonna be able to tell any better than YOU can, what they did to it. Best we can do is GUESS, and that's probably not as good as what YOU can do YOURSELF, seeing as how YOU are the only one who can LOOK AT IT and SEE IT and spot what they did.
So, stop posting crap like this, and USE YOUR EYES. No doubt you have already acquired the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car, like you've been told about a hundred times already: just get up off of yer keyboard and LOOK AT your car, and compare it to your FSM. Make whatever you see that's NOT like what the FSM says, JUST LIKE what the FSM says. None of us out here can tell you any better than that what to do to unHACK your sodomized HACKED wiring. Just get out there and UN-HACK it.
Yes it's probably due to a "damaged wire somewhere". DUHHHH.
We've all seen like A MILLION posts on this forum from you, wherein you bought a RACE CAR that somebody had already thouroughly SODOMIZED, and now you want to turn it back into a daily-driver sort of thing.
Not that ANY of that is "bad", "wrong", "misdirected", or any such; just...
When people buy a trashed-out shell and turn it into a "race car", they're not gonna be worrying about things like hatch pull-down motors, power seats, AC, headlights, or ANY NUMBER of other things that don't contribute to "race car" -ness. They'll just slash-and-burn RIGHT THROUGH all that other stuff in their pursuit of low ET or lap times or whatever. It's PHUCT now.
NONE OF US out here is going to have THE SLIGHTEST IDEA of what those people took their dykes to. NONE. We cannot help you other than to tell you trivial stuff like, when you post that the headlights don't work, "look at the headlight wiring". You can post all day long and into the wee hours of the night, and NEVER get any clearer answer than that. At some point, YOU just gotta get up off yer BUTT, quit posting weeeeeeek-a$$ crap on the Interwebz, and get out there and TRACE THE WIRES, and see what they cut / slashed / twisted together / burned / spliced / tore out / WHATEVER, because THERE'S NO WAY any of us out here that CAN'T SEE YOUR CAR like you ALONE can, is gonna be able to tell any better than YOU can, what they did to it. Best we can do is GUESS, and that's probably not as good as what YOU can do YOURSELF, seeing as how YOU are the only one who can LOOK AT IT and SEE IT and spot what they did.
So, stop posting crap like this, and USE YOUR EYES. No doubt you have already acquired the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car, like you've been told about a hundred times already: just get up off of yer keyboard and LOOK AT your car, and compare it to your FSM. Make whatever you see that's NOT like what the FSM says, JUST LIKE what the FSM says. None of us out here can tell you any better than that what to do to unHACK your sodomized HACKED wiring. Just get out there and UN-HACK it.
It's not a beat up car or shell turned to race car. It's a 1988 GTA with 30k original miles. Not a single crack in the dash, not a single rip in the seats, not a single stain on the carpet. I actually ended up tracing wires for the random wires on my car and it turned out to be it was wires ran for a heated o2 sensor. The person I bought it from showed me pictures of the car dated from 1990 where it already had the 12 bolts rear, roll cage and 383 running 11's at the track. The car was literally brand new when all the mods where done to it... The car belonged to a racer who bought a corvette brand new in 1994 and immediately pulled the engine and trans and dropped in his own the same week he got it (I may be buying that as well). This guy had money and didn't spare any expense on having work done to the car.
Also, the head light and fog light were working fine for the last 2 months, guess you didn't read my post at all because I was simply asking how the circuit works.
The issues I had with my electronics not working and digital dash blank was due to a blown courtesy fuse. Now everything on the car works great that I was asking about before. The reason I bought this car (and paid a pretty penny for it) was that nothing was hacked up on the car, all the plugs and wiring are there and nothing is spliced. He created adapter plugs for everything so the factory wiring was never cut or repined. He did it for ECU as well so it was a piece of cake for me to install the EBL. Hell even the emissions equipment is still on it if I want to use it.
Anyway, if you don't want to help, then just ignore the post. Don't go posting and insulting others who are asking simple questions that someone who ran into a similar situation can answer in 5 minutes.
Last edited by msammy93; Nov 18, 2020 at 11:07 PM.
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