My car has been giving me electrical issues. It stalled out on me last night at a drive-tru (almost like an EMP hit my car), battery is fine but it wouldn't start for 30 minutes. Today I noticed the wire that runs from my alternator to the battery positive cable and to that relay on the fender looks worn and a small wire was split. Could this cause stalling issues? When I put a bunch of power loads on the alternator itself, it acts like it wants to stall. (Headlights, AC and window motors). My alternator is an Ultima Remain that's just over 2 years old. Before, I replace it, I wonder if this wire has to do with it?

 

Here's a video of what the car is doing:

 

It would appear that what seems to be a fusible link took a hit at some point.

JamesC

 

Ok. I'm assuming the black wire on the alternator is the fusible link? I'm assuming that is the original one. What gauge should I replace it with?

Also what about that relay it runs to on the fender?

 

The thing on the fender is actually a cleverly concealed fuse, and powers your ECM

 

So that's where that Orange wire runs too from that. That makes sense then.

 

I'm not aware of any fusible link between the alternator output and battery...

 

What's that wire in my picture? Do you have a part number?

 

Individual wires don't have part numbers. You just buy the same gauge and color of stranded wire, and either reuse or replace the connectors on either end.

 

Ok. Do you know the gauge?

 

Your digital calipers will:

https://powerwerx.com/help/wire-gaug...eference-table

 

Noob questions. Since that wire in my picture runs from the back of the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery, I'm guessing that's the wire that charges the battery?

I haven't had a chance to poke around the car again yet. I was reading another thread about alternator wiring from several years ago. The commenter told OP to replace the small stock wire with 10 gauge wire. Is using a lower wire a good idea? Does gauge size matter? I haven't had a chance to measure the gauge yet.

 

Given the age of our cars, who knows how they've been altered (or butchered). My car's positive battery cable, for example, has a pigtail w/fusible link built in and that wiring does run to the alt. Whether the above is a fusible link or not, the wiring does look a bit "iffy."

JamesC

 

Sounds about right. Sure, assuming stock is like 12AWG, replacing it with a 10AWG should be fine. Gauge size definitely matters, basically each size can safely transport a maximum amount of amps. The larger the wire, the more amps it can safely flow. What you want to avoid is replacing something with a smaller gauge, but going one size larger (which is a smaller number in AWG) should be ok. See also:

http://wiresizecalculator.net/wiresizechart.htm

 

90% of my wiring is original from 1986. There's been a few pigtails I've replaced here and there, but a lot of it is iffy.
Tomorrow, I will post of a picture. The black wire in the first picture runs to this round cylinder and it's splits into the one wire going to the positive terminal on the battery and the other running to the ECM fuse on the fire wall. That round cylinder is what I am looking for.

 

It looks like you're talking about this section of the positive battery cable 'network,' where the thicker black cable comes out of the positive battery cable connector.


Our battery cables have been discontinued for, oh, about 20 years. The only place you'll find that, if you want exactly that, would be in a junkyard car. Assuming you're THE Vin Scully then you'll find plenty of junkyards in the SoCal area. Otherwise, if that fusible link (cylinder) has melted, then cut it out and install an inline fuse of some type. And, BTW, no, that black cable with the fusible link doesn't go to the alternator, or, at least, it shouldn't be going there. As you can see in my picture, it doesn't and couldn't.

The positive cable 'network' includes: the largest cable to the starter(4 gauge-ish); a cable to the alternator(8 gauge-ish); and that section of cable with the fusible link(8 gauge-ish), w/smaller wires, fuse and connector, that you're asking about. All three cables are black, and they all come out of the positive battery cable connector that connects to the positive battery terminal. So while that black cable with the link might LOOK like it's the alternator cable, it's not, but it's the same size as the alternator cable, and it begins from the same point as the alternator cable, at the positive battery terminal, so it might be easily mistaken for the alternator cable, until the cables are traced.

And all battery cables are of barely sufficient size for their time, nearly 40 years ago, and should be upgraded at some point, especially if people are upgrading any of the car's electronics. And while you're at it, add another cable from the negative battery terminal to the alternator case, same size as the positive alternator cable, but that's another topic.

 

The Alternator Power-Cable did actually have a GM Part Number, when the 3rd-Gen Cars were in production...
and for a good number of years after.
The original Part Numbers have been made inactive, and no longer associate to any actual Part.

As already stated, these Parts were discontinued a long time ago...
Upgrading to a larger Cable is always of benefit.

Research the "Big Four Upgrade" for automobiles on YouTube or Google.

 

Looked at a few things. So the wire running from my alternator to the that fusible link/spliter is 8 gauge. I'm going to go with either 6 or 4 gauge for now, unless I should go bigger to like 2 or something?
Another noob question. How far down before the fusible link should I splice in the new wire? Just before it like LAFireBoyd's picture?

Also I'll do part of the Big Four, the battery ground is 14 gauge. Would 8, 6 or 4 be fine?

 

You already have a 4 gauge ground wire. It's called the Negative battery cable, and should be connected to the alternator bracket or somewhere near there. That 14 gauge ground wire on the fender apron is just one of several Grounds and should be fine. There should also be a ground wire or strap connected from the back of the engine to the firewall...

 

How far down should I cut and crimp in the new alternator wire? in my first picture? Just before the fusible link?

 

I cut wires back until there's no oxidized copper wire. Anything beyond that is just for convenience / tool access, etc.

 

If you're looking to upgrade your power cables, I recommend taking a look at Innovative Wiring. They make custom cables for our cars. A little pricey, but you will NOT be disappointed in the quality when you receive it.

 

Does your amp meter work? Its all the way down in the vid.

 

That's a volt meter, and yeah, it reads not charging..