Ok so I've been looking around the internet for a fusible link that looks like the round cylinder with the stamp or 20 and 16 but I can't find anything ! So are most fusible links you get at an auto parts store exceptible or am I just missing where to purchase these ?

 

They are the factory links, only way to get those is to buy a whole factory harness. The cylinder is molded and covers the splice between the link & main wire. And the number stamped in it is the fusible link size (gage).

Get the auto store links with the proper ring lug. Cut the splice off the main wire, and splice/crimp the link onto it. Cover splice with some RTV and heat shrink.

RBob.

 

They're not exceptible. They are acceptable.
As previously mentioned, just use a butt connector and heat-shrink tubing over that to keep dirt & moisture out...

 

Just as the Two Gentlemen above me "PERFECTLY" Posted...




The Component that appears as a Black Plastic Cylinder, is not part of the actual "Fusible-Link".
It is essentially a Butt-Splice Terminal that has a protected Heat-Molded Plastic Cover over it.
It also has an Identification Number in the Plastic Mold.
This is to Identify which/ what Gauge Wire the Fusible-Link is.

Generally, this is what you will find on our Old OEM Packard-Electrical-Division Fusible-Links:

-A 14AWG Wire with a 18AWG Fusible-Link and ID Number on the Black Plastic Cylinder.
-A 12AWG Wire with a 16AWG Fusible-Link and ID Number on the Black Plastic Cylinder.
-A 10AWG Wire with a 14AWG Fusible-Link and ID Number on the Black Plastic Cylinder.
-A 8AWG Wire with a 12AWG Fusible-Link and ID Number on the Black Plastic Cylinder.

 

Sorry for the late reply! thanks guys ! I've been posting alot so I'm just trying to make sure I get ideas from everybody about alot of things. Maybe you guys can help me ? I'm dropping the tank on the car should I replace the whole fuel sender unit? Or just stick to replacing the fuel pump ?

 

For the amount of work that is involved in replacing the fuel pump, also replacing the sending unit is cheap insurance. With the state of replacement parts these days it's a good idea to plug in the new sending unit to make sure electrically the gauge float works. Almost nothing worse than spending a s#@t load of time on something and it not work.

EDIT: Found this post by vorteciroc, good advise
"I personally will connect the new Sending-Unit before installing it into the Fuel Tank.
Then I will turn ON the Ignition Switch, and move the Float-Arm of the SendingUnit by hand.
Having someone else watch the Fuel Gauge, make certain that the SendingUnit operates properly.

Note most Sending Units from this era will be Grounded via contact with the Fuel Tank.
In this situation, a wire is needed to contact the Body of the SendingUnit to a Ground Location on the Car.

You will have to see if the Variable Resistance of the SendingUnit, matches the specified range.
Take these measurements on the SendingUnit, and then at the Fuel Level Gauge Connection.
This can help rule-out a Wiring issue/ excessive resistance."

 

Ok got it ordering a sending unit right now thank you guys !