Car start problems (Unlike any before) (pics)
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,201
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From: Houston, TX
Car: '86 T/A
Engine: 350/LT1 Intake
Transmission: 700R4 - Built
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
Car start problems (Unlike any before) (pics)
Yes, my car won't start, but it is due to an alarm I have in my car that is not activated. (Or maybe it is, I have no clue, and I don't use it)
This was in my car before I bought it, but I didn't have anything to activate it with. The alarm system seems to have an ignition cutoff switch, and everytime I work on my car, my ignition is killed. It usually goes away, but this time, it isn't. It doesn't matter what I do, pull the battery, reset the computer, nothing. This baby will just not start.
Here is the indicator light for my alarm system. It flashes 3 times when the alarm is triggered.

This is the motion sensor for the alarm system.

And here is the mess of wires that the idiot whoever installed it did to my car. (My stereo looks quite the same way too)

The alarm appears to be an Audiovox of some sort.
How can I get my car to at least start? Or better yet, how the hell can I remove all this garbage from my car and still make sure the car runs?
This was in my car before I bought it, but I didn't have anything to activate it with. The alarm system seems to have an ignition cutoff switch, and everytime I work on my car, my ignition is killed. It usually goes away, but this time, it isn't. It doesn't matter what I do, pull the battery, reset the computer, nothing. This baby will just not start.
Here is the indicator light for my alarm system. It flashes 3 times when the alarm is triggered.

This is the motion sensor for the alarm system.

And here is the mess of wires that the idiot whoever installed it did to my car. (My stereo looks quite the same way too)

The alarm appears to be an Audiovox of some sort.
How can I get my car to at least start? Or better yet, how the hell can I remove all this garbage from my car and still make sure the car runs?
you've got two ignition cutoffs, the aftermarket alarm and the factory vats system.
to bypass aftermarket alarm, locate the steering column ignition switch harness under driver's side dash. after you unwrap the electrical tape, find the cut in the yellow starter wire.
might also try pulling the connector out of the alarm brain, many alarms use a normally closed starter kill relay. what that means is with no power applied, starter kill is not active.
to bypass aftermarket alarm, locate the steering column ignition switch harness under driver's side dash. after you unwrap the electrical tape, find the cut in the yellow starter wire.
might also try pulling the connector out of the alarm brain, many alarms use a normally closed starter kill relay. what that means is with no power applied, starter kill is not active.
I install Audiovox alarms, and I back up everything 2vmodular says.
Simply unplug the alarm brain, and IF all of the other wiring is still secure and sound, the car will be allowed to start.
Since you no longer have the alarm's remotes, you may well want to remove it. You'll notice that each wire from the alarm, is just spliced into a factory wire at some point; just remove it and tape up the factory wire. However, the thick yellow factory starter wire will be cut in half, and then wired to the alarm's starter kill relay. Remove the relay, and re-hook the yellow wire like it was from the factory....do a really nice job; if the yellow wire comes loose someday, the car won't start.
Occasionally, an alarm will be installed with no starter kill feature, whether it's because of installer laziness, or the customer doesn't want it for fear he'll get stuck or something.......I don't see a kill relay in your pics, but that doesn't mean you don't have one..... sometimes the kill relay is built into the alarm brain.
Like 2v said, does your car have the VATS chip in the key? If so, it's worth checking into that as well; the system occasionally has problems. Also, don't overlook that your car may simply have some other mechanical trouble that has nothing to do with either security system. And don't forget to make sure the car's in Park when you're trying to start it.
Do you have a test light or multimeter? Find that yellow starter wire that's cut in half....... you'll notice that one end is coming from the steering column, while the other disappears into the car. First, see if the "column" side shows power when you turn the key to Start....... if so, everything's okay up to that point............ next, test the other side of the wire, going into the car............ if it has no power, fix up the alarm wiring...... if it does have power, the alarm isn't your problem.
Simply unplug the alarm brain, and IF all of the other wiring is still secure and sound, the car will be allowed to start.
Since you no longer have the alarm's remotes, you may well want to remove it. You'll notice that each wire from the alarm, is just spliced into a factory wire at some point; just remove it and tape up the factory wire. However, the thick yellow factory starter wire will be cut in half, and then wired to the alarm's starter kill relay. Remove the relay, and re-hook the yellow wire like it was from the factory....do a really nice job; if the yellow wire comes loose someday, the car won't start.
Occasionally, an alarm will be installed with no starter kill feature, whether it's because of installer laziness, or the customer doesn't want it for fear he'll get stuck or something.......I don't see a kill relay in your pics, but that doesn't mean you don't have one..... sometimes the kill relay is built into the alarm brain.
Like 2v said, does your car have the VATS chip in the key? If so, it's worth checking into that as well; the system occasionally has problems. Also, don't overlook that your car may simply have some other mechanical trouble that has nothing to do with either security system. And don't forget to make sure the car's in Park when you're trying to start it.
Do you have a test light or multimeter? Find that yellow starter wire that's cut in half....... you'll notice that one end is coming from the steering column, while the other disappears into the car. First, see if the "column" side shows power when you turn the key to Start....... if so, everything's okay up to that point............ next, test the other side of the wire, going into the car............ if it has no power, fix up the alarm wiring...... if it does have power, the alarm isn't your problem.
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,201
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '86 T/A
Engine: 350/LT1 Intake
Transmission: 700R4 - Built
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42
Thanks guys for your help
I eventually got the car to start when I removed one of the fuses.
Its deffinitely not my VATS. I have never had one single problem starting my car until I open up the hood and start messing with ****.
I will probabally never have another problem until the next time I do it either. That fuse however, made it possible for me to start the car by turning the alarm system off.
That red LED blinks 3 times forever while the alarm is activated. I don't think thats VATS. The car only does not start when that light is blinking, otherwise, the light is always on.
I need to get a new security system and wire it up.
I eventually got the car to start when I removed one of the fuses.
Its deffinitely not my VATS. I have never had one single problem starting my car until I open up the hood and start messing with ****.

I will probabally never have another problem until the next time I do it either. That fuse however, made it possible for me to start the car by turning the alarm system off.
That red LED blinks 3 times forever while the alarm is activated. I don't think thats VATS. The car only does not start when that light is blinking, otherwise, the light is always on.
I need to get a new security system and wire it up.
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