Selling the parts to make an excellent S/S 383 Pump gas short block. Built a 408 instead. These parts should be good for a 500HP set-up plus a little juice. Here's what I've got:
1) 3.75 Eagle ESP Cast crank(New, but had it turned 10/10 to clean-up the journals.) internally Balanced. 2-pc seal.
2. 5.85" Pro-Power 4340 Forged H-beam rods (New). These are stout.
3. JE/SRP Forged Pistons +.030 (Used but in excellent shape). One of the eight was damaged and I bought a new one. P/N146997. Step dish design. 16CC dish. 9.6-9.8 to 1 Compression with 64CC heads.
4. This rotating assembly gives you a deck ht. of 9.010". You can use a std. deck block (9.025") or just cut the deck .010-.015" for zero deck.
5. I also have a Std. bore 4-bolt single main seal block. You will need an adapter to fit this crank into the block but this block uses std. lifters for a hyd. roller cam. This saves $$$$ on cam kit.

You will need bearings and rings. I may ahve a set of rings but they will add to the cost. Will sell the rotating assembly seperate from the block.

Rotating Assembly--- $500 w/Block $600.
Block alone--- $150

I have a couple of cams as well. Both Hyd. and Hyd Roller. If your interested. These are new. $100/ea

 

would you consider seperating the pistons and rods from the rest and if so how much can you send pics of the pistons to ssgtgaines@sbcglobal.net
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where are u located

 

I would consider it but prefer to sell as a package. However, if you want just the pistons and rods I'd price those at $400.

Thanks,

 

What hyd roller cam do you have?

 

Hey, I need that crank. Hopefully you can seperate? Is it a 400 Crank, or a 383 crank? Thanks!

 

Mike, I've got 2 hyd.roller cams. One is a Crane#119821, 276/284Dur, 112LSA, .480/.509". I'll get the specs on the other later today.

Bradley, I'll seperate the crank for $130. You pay shipping.

Thanks,

 

Im interested. Please send me some pics. Is this a direct swap into a regular 350 block? (I know about clearancing, etc. etc...) What I mean is, would my blocks bearing journals have to be modified? Let me know please

Bradley23150@yahoo.com

 

I think the lobe sep is okay but I'd like a little more lift and duration. BTW, this is for a roller L98 block.

 

Mike,
No this is a retro-fit cam. However, my other cam is a step-nose cam. If I remember correctly it's a single pattern 239@.050. But I don't rememeber the LSA or lift. I'll get the specs shortly.

 

Bradley,

The crank,rods and pistons are ready to go into a 2pc seal 350+.030 block. Yes there wil be some clearancing involved but this is normal for a 383 deal. You will have a problem with using this crank with 5.7" rods. Needs longer rods to allow piston to crank counterweight clearance.

Kelly

 

I don't think it matters...retrofit or not... as long as I use the right cam button. I believe any cam for Gen 1 or LTx is fine provided the grind matches my needs.

 

I have been researching and reading up on this whole ''383'' motor deal, and I have been told that 5.7 rods are fine with a 383 crank. What exactly does ''Turned 10/10'' mean? I already have 5.7 PM rods, .030 pistons and rings ordered.

Nonetheless, How much shipped to 33635, and can I get some pics? Thanks!

Email: Bradley23150@yahoo.com

 

The crank has been ground 10 thou undersize from stock dimension.
10/10 ; both mains and crank journals done.

 

Yes. What vetteoz said.

 

Just a heads up....Those PM rod bolts will probably need a little grinding for clearance to accomodate the longer stroke. The clearance is needed for the cam...unless you use a small base circle cam.

 

Does this mean I need .010 Oversized Main, and Rod Bearings with this crank?
Can I PLEASE get some pics and a price to zip 33635, Email: Bradley23150@yahoo.com
thx

 

These H-beam rods shouldn't need much clearancing for the cam. Depends on lift, lsa, etc. I've used these with a Hyd. roller 289/294, .560" lift w/o any clearancing. But a small base circle will certainly clear.

Bradley, I'll send lics. Have been very busy and haven't been to my shop in a couple of days.

Thanks,

 

Ok, Send me some pics.
But, How can I use 5.7 rods with this crank? What makes it so different from any other 383 crank?

Thanks.

 

Do you have specs on the step-nose cam yet?

 

Mike,

Sorry sold it.

Kelly

 

Any Word?

 

Pictured are your PM rods. Make a note of how the rod bolt holds the cap together. The head of the bolt will probably need a little clearancing to clear the cam. Also pictured is a rod that will not need clearancing. See how the bolt mounts from the bottom up....just the opposite of yours? Photos are small but you get the idea.

 

Oh okay, thanks for the info. Although I dont really see a difference? Nevertheless. Ide like pics and PRICE of the crank shipped to 33635.


Email: Bradley23150@yahoo.com

Thanks!

 

Yeah...sorry. If the pictures were larger, you'd see the difference right away. It's simple. Your PM rod has the bolt head on top and a nut on the bottom. The other rod has the bolt head on the cap and there is no nut. The bolt threads right into the body of the rod. Where your bolt head is on the PM rod is exactly what needs clearancing.

 

Oh okay. I thought the block just got clearanced to solve that problem...
Either way, can I get a price shipped to 33635?

Thanks.

 

How much just for the crank shipped to 08872?