For those that have done it....

I have a complete 95 Camaro setup I will be using, but had a few questions.

1. My car was a 3.1 efi, think the pump will work for the swap?
2. Did you use the LT1 radiator?
3. Will the LT1 oil pans allow the y-pipe to remain in the same location as a 3rd gen?
4. Should I use the LT1 condensor instead of my 3rd gen one?
5. Are BC Powders required for the swap!

Thats about all I had for now. I know thw VATS thing can get out of hand, but I am still researching that one.

Thanks

Mark

 

Yeah some people should use the SEARCH button, because all of that should have been covered.

1. Probably but why risk it ? Do it right the 1st time.
2. I believe most of us did, but I think a select few used 3rd gen V8 rads.
3. Yep.
4. The LT1 rad has mounts on it so if you use it, would probably be easiest to stick with the condensor thats attached.
5. Wasnt for mine, but its non a/c

As far as VATS goes, just get the painless wiring module from Jegs, its like 60 bux and there will be no headaches.

 

Thanks, I appreciate it. I just started the "search" but wanted to get the big questions out of the way. One you get you "new" motor, you cannot wait to start, but you know you have too.!

 

like he said, the 3.1 fuel pump would probably work, but why take the chance. the TPI fuel pump is only about $60.

I didnt use the 4th gen radiator, just got some Goodyear wire-insert flex hose to connect the water pump like its supposed to be.

VATS really isnt that big of a deal. you have to run a single wire from the connector in the car to the new computer. the rest is just rearranging the pins on the VATS connector and putting the new module in. its a pain in the *** to get to, but it was a piece-of-mind thing when I knew mine worked.

 

Thanks guys. I was going to replace my heater core during the swap, so getting to the VATS should be a bit easier. If I am not mistaken, half the dash has to be loose or come out anyway.

Thanks again...

 

try the whole dash. I had to undo ALL of the bolts in the damn thing and pull it out about 4 inches. took about 2 hours. besides, I dont think even having the heater core out would help, theres probably more crap in the way blocking it, its on the VERY back side of the dash, right against the firewall....impossible to get to.

 

The vats can be removed by removing the dash pad and one heather air duck. no screw driver will fit there so you'll have to use a 1/4 inch rachet with a 9/32 socket. It's hard but doable.