I am putting together a 383,I have selected a rotating assembly to go with.I will tell you I will be on all motor on pump gas so no power adder.Here is a link to the kit,it is pretty complete for the price

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...90&prmenbr=361


Im also looking for cam and head selections.I want it to be streetable and brutally torqy.I have a set of 88 L98 iron heads I was contemplating working,but am skepticle,id rather get some aftermarket aluminum.The one thing I have not decided on is the manifold either long tube runner or superram.With a good cam and heads out of the box I want to run 12s but on a budget.Any guesses on how much hp and torque with each manifold?A friend had a 355 built with afr 190s and a edelbrock intake+longtubes and zz9 cam and 10.1 compression and it dynoed on the engine dyno at 360hp and 440ftlbs,but was leaning out with 24lbers.I want to be able to turn low 12s.I have the tranny fully rebuilt with a vigilante conveter and 3.70s.Thanks

 

Anyone have any opinions on my buildup?Im just looking for some feedback and cannot find any good or bad about this rotating assembly.Thank you

 

You don't need to buy the eagle kit if you are on motor only and don't plan on reving it to the moon.

356-103523750 383cid 3.750'' Stroke with 1 Piece Rear Seal $289.99

The above crank is all you need. You shouldn't be looking at jegs anyway, their prices are too high. Do a search for 383 and you should find links to some better shops to buy parts from.

 

WOww! You need more than the crank. You need the pistons to go with the crank. Because the original crank 3.48 " with 350 pistons go the the height of the deck, you need a different piston so it won't go past with the 3.75 " crank. You need a piston designed for upgrade. Basically where the wrist pin goes in the piston , it has to be .135 " closer to the top of the piston.

3.75 - 3.48 = .27 / 2 = .135


You need the Crank and Pistons and a flywheel made to balance the bigger crank.

 

I was looking into doing a 383 myself, and I found a few palces that do a nice setup. For example PAW sells a crankshaft, rods, and pistons for a 377 383 385 388 set up, for a good price of $659. Not too shabby. They also sell whole engines that are setup for 383 stroker. Check them out at www.pawengineparts.com

 

How fast you lookin' to go? No power adders? Street driven? Pump gas?


I agree, you really don't need that stout bottom end, but it wouldn't hurt in the long run, if even for piece of mind.

Some vendors you might want to try...


Try...

HERE

and

www.enginekits.com



My recommendation? Hey, it's great to spend somebody else's money


I'd go with a 1 piece rear main seal 350 block.
3.75" stroke crank for 1 piece RMS
5.7" rods
Forged or Hyper pistons ( for @ 10:1 w/ 64cc )
ARP bolts throughout

I'd go for the Pro Action Lightning Alum heads ( 200-220 cc intaek runners )

Holley Stealth Ram

58 mm TB

1 3/4" headers


Cam wise, I'd think LONG and HARD about what you want out of it....the Hot Cam would be very liveable on the street, and I think it would be good for 11's with traction.


HTH

 

Powerhouse makes a more affordable 383 kit thats balanced for less than that eagle kit...it may even be made by eagle...lol

 

I'm working on the same thing myself. (A 383 build-up that is.) I'm going with Vortec heads, haven't decided on cast vortec or the E-Tec by Edelbrock, but definately am going with the Edelbrock performer RPM AirGap. The E-Tec heads are only $1,099 for the E-Tec 200, which is what you would want. That's a GREAT price for aluminum heads that flow so freakin awesome! Vortec is a great, cost effective way to make all motor power.

 

Thanks for the reply.I have been second guessing that bottom end as I am hearing the horror stories of people saving money on cheap bottom ends only to dish out the difference they saved trying to balence it.I found another great site that has alot of cheap prices


http://www.flatlanderracing.com


Im still new at this stroker stuff,and am seriously considering dropping the idea and just putting together a 355.I am going long tube runner I know that is what I am planning on with a whole accel setup.Heads I dont know,maybe AFRs again.More opinions please.Thank you

 

Don't drop the idea, the best thing ever said was there is no substitute for Cubic Inches. Build a 400, you get way more torque and I built my motor for $200 more than it would have cost me to build a 350. As for heads, make sure you choose intake runners wisely, otherwise you can have pooling if you go too big, or even worse, not have enough size and be loosing hp. AH! One last comment, if you are making it streetable, regardless if you are running an auto or a stick, run less than 225 degrees duration, believe me. The biggest cam on the street that you want to run is around a 350hp/350 cam. Any more than that and you get the steady idle shake going down the road at less than 2000 rpms. That sucks when your trying to be cool with your new girl and your car starts acting like it is going to shake itself apart.

 

forgot to state that I have run the following cams in my 305.

Stock, 350hp/350 cam, 278H, 292H, 278XE.

and in my 409


292XE,305H, the chevy 140 cam, and the cam I run now is a custom grind Crane cam that is based on the 350hp/350 cam with 4 more degrees duration and .079 more lift. Same lobe seperation, same lobe timing, etc. It sounds OK, but it runs perfect. I have run some pretty wild cams that make people think H*** S*** at the light. But when it comes to fun driving and idling at less than 2200 rpms, pick a 225 degree or so cam. Its cheaper. Just my opinion.

 

Now this is a different story. If it were me, I'd start with a 400. Look around, they can be found pretty cheap.

If it's primarily a street engine, and you don't plan on shifting at 6500 RPM all the time, leave the short rods alone...they work fine for street-driven 400's.

I've been seriously kicking around the idea of building a 400 with Vortec heads, and the Vortec TPI base. Reason is, the strength of the TPI is low and mid range torque...the strength of the 400 is low and mid range torque.

I built a 406 last year for a guy....it was stock bore. The cylinders were super clean, and it would have been a waste to bore it. We used a set of Vortec heads that had been upgraded with better springs for more lift. I'm pretty sure he bought the whole Vortec head kit from the Autocenter for like $800, and that included the upgraded heads, Performer RPM intake, head bolts, gaskets, and the required self-guided rocker arms.

This was a budget engine, so we used cast pistons, that ended up being about 9.8:1 with the Vortec's 64cc chambers. The camshaft was a Comp Cams XE274.

With a Q-Jet, cheapy 1 5/8" headers into 2.5" duals, this motor ran a mid 13 second 1/4 mile in a 1972 Chevy 2wd pick up with hardly any gear...or traction for that matter. The only reason it ever went to the track was because I pestered him to let me take it....the truck is used to tow a bass boat or a trailer with dirt bikes and 4 wheelers. Thing pulls like there is no tomorrow.

In fact, the cam was probably a little big for the purpose of the engine, but he got the cam for FREE from some guy he knew who upgraded to a roller cam.

If you open up the door to use a 400, there's some more options. The only reason I haven't decided for sure on building the Vortec TPI 400, has to do with the fact I'm soon to be running a T5 tranny, and this means I'd have to lay out $$$$ to get the externally balanced manual flywheel I'd need....and there are other things to consider... ESPECIALLY since the Holley StealthRam came out. For around the same layout, the SR can give almost just as much torque, and add alot of topend HP without getting crazy....



HTH
Chris
85 IROC
A few mods...still too slow for me.

 

I have the Eagle kit and at $1200 complete and balanced all you have to do is install cam and heads plus kit and you are going. It is very complete, the parts are very good quality and trust me if they could be broken I would have done it. Don't ever skimp on the bottom end if you plan on making power. Heads are very important, but you can swap them on in the car, putting a crank or rods and pistons in it is a different story. Plus I've seen 383's that have blown apart and there is nothing usable, I would do my best to make sure nothing comes apart. Just my opinion. By the way externally balnaced 383 cranks like the above mentioned cheap ones aren't good for anything but boat anchors.

 

IROCZ1989,
You say on a budget, What kind of dollars do you have to work with?
That rotating assy looks pretty nice, Eagle make good products, but if you did some shopping around, On ebay or elsewhere, you could probably score that same set up for a lesser price. Or even a set up with H-beams and Forged pistons for the same or a little more money! Be careful though, going with some of the lower budget cranks (non eagle or equivalent)! Sometimes you get what you pay for and they can be so far out of balance that you could be paying your machinist for more in heavy metal to balance it than if you would have got the better crank. I definitely think that stroking your motor is the FIRST STEP every one should take when doing a Hi perf. rebuild, (if not going for a the bigger 400 block). Either way though you will have some pros and cons. The beauty of using your original motor is already having the roller cam set up. Which in a 400 can get pretty costly.
Definitely address the bottom end first and you could always go for the better heads etc. later. If you were to reuse your L98 heads a cam to consider might be the LT4 Hotcam, Good cam for the money!
Anyway Good Luck!
Tony

ctandc,
Good advise in my opinion, Once you have more cubes, I dont think you ever want to turn back!
I was thinking of going with the vortec or E-tec heads and SDPC base myself! I love the brutal low end, Mid range torque of my 400 motor and will most likely stay with a long tube runner set up as I dont want to have to **** my engine out to 6500 RPMs to make power as I did with a previous 350 buildup.