I got back last night from Kentucky where I picked up my 350 small block that I purchased last May. It's a very long story that involves UPS and 2 lost money orders. Any way, I've got a 1000 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight, and I thought I knew how to put the engine up on it, but i was looking at it for 20 mins and didn't have a clue. Maybe because it was 130 in the morn. Do I need to get bolts from ARP or a junkyard to hold it up, thanks.

 

Sounds like a screwed up story if it took 8 months to get your motor. BTW, I live in Ky so don't hold that against me!

To put your engine on the stand you'll need a way to lift it up, I use an engine hoist but an overhead lift, like a come-along from a rafter, would work too - just be super careful lifting it either way and make sure if using an overhead lift method that it is capable of suspending this much weight. Brace it if you are unsure. If the engine stand is like the ones I've used there will be four mounting points on adjustable arms where the engine mounts. Once lifted to the proper height, the engine is mounted to the stand by using four of the tapped holes in the back of the block where the transmission bolts up. Use matching holes from one side to the other of the motor block. You will probably have to remove the flywheel/flexplate from the back of the motor to prevent interference. Measure the length of the tubing on the stand where the engine mounts and add 1" to determine the length of bolt you need, then go to the hardware store and buy the bolts required to go thru the engine stand tubing and into the block. 3/8 x 16 thread in the length required (I think). Buy 8 large, thick washers (2 per bolt) to use on either side of the engine stand tubing. Make sure that the engine stand is secured from rotating by putting a drift pin or heavy screwdriver into the hole where the engine stand mounting plate rotates, and tighten the bolts going into the block and the bolts where the mounting arms adjust prior to releasing the engine from your hoist. Sorry if any of these sounds patronizing, I don't intend to but I'm not sure how much of this you may already know. Good luck and be careful, take your time to do it right and you will be ok.

Another note, once the heads, etc are attached to the top of the block the engine will be top-heavy, more so with iron heads. If you decide to rotate it on the stand have someone there to help you unless you're pretty stout, and even then do not get any part of your body trapped under it as it will roll over quickly and unexpectedly. I do it by myself but I'm a big guy - I also make my own distributor wrenches by slipping the box end over a drift pin and bending them

HTH, Shawn

 

The guy was from North Carolina, we met halfway. Anyway, it's just a bare block so I don't think I'll need a hoist. Thanks

 

I was looking at it, and the holes I think you ment, and alot smaller than the holes on the stand. Or am I just looking at the wrong ones.

 

That's correct, the mounting holes on the stand are actually made of round tubing that is larger in diameter than the holes in the block. This is why you should get large diameter washers (2 per bolt) for either side of this tubing when putting the bolts thru into the block. These pieces of tubing are welded to flat strips of steel that I referred to as the adjustment arms in my original post. These arms have slots in them and attach to the mounting plate via bolts & nuts. These slotted holes are what allow you to adjust the location of the mounting points as needed. You may need to loosen these adjustable arms to get the holes to line up to the block. Tighten the adjustable arms back down once the bolts going into the block are tight.