Hi, I just purchased a 89 Rs. It has a new 350 in it (not sure the hp but hte guy i bought it from says its got close to 310hp) its got 3.73 posi, headers, and a 3in exhaust system (not sure what it is), new 180 thermo and a self installed fan. My question is its running on the 700r4 trans. Now when im in the car and i slam it it goes but my prolbem is the rpms dont even get close to the yellow or red its like holding back the torque u know. like i hit the gas and it only goes to about 3500 rpms and then shifts how can i get it to shift later at like 4200 or 4300. Also the headers are not covered and i was wondering what i could use to cover them. THanks Lots ps... how can i tell waht kind of engine my car has..are there numbers i can find on it?

 

First off...

The shifting part...welcome to the wonderful world of automatics

You can add a good shift kit, and this will firm shifts up, and there are several other parts you should add while you're in there, but these will mainly help the quality / quickness of the shifts, not the RPM they occur at.

There are only two things, AFAIK, that effect the RPM at which a 7004R shifts at...

One is the TV ( throttle valve ) cable setting. Do a search for TV setting, and this will guide you. Basically, moving the adjustment 'IN', that's towards the firewall will result in later and firmer shifts, but you CAN go to far. A small adjustment can make a big difference.

Two.....the govenor inside the tranny. The governor is different from the factory depending on what engine that particular tranny was behind. For example, if the tranny was meant for a V-6, the WOT ( wide open throttle ) shifts will occur at an EARLIER / LOWER RPM , than the same tranny that originally came behind say a TPI 350. most times you can change these out, but again, ask this question on the Transmission board, and there are several VERY good tranny guys over there.


As for the numbers on the engine...

There are basically 2 sets. One is the block casting #, which is located on the driver's side BACK of the engine, and is almost impossible to read in the car, unless you use a mirror.

Another, sometimes easier, way to help identify your engine, is the SUFFIX #. Look on the passenger side front of the engine. Put your hand on the FRONT of the valve cover. Follow it down to where the head bolts to the block. There will be a small 'ledge' on the engine block right there ( it's most likely blocked by your alternator or AC compressor, depending on whether or not you have V-Belts or the serpentine setup ). It will be a set of letters and numbers. The last three letters ( usually ) can be looked up and most times tell you what your engine is, and what year / vehicle it originally came in.



HTH

 

Well im not the greatest on cars and i was j/w where would i adjust these settings and what would be a good rpm to shift at? THe engine has about 340hp (so i hear from the person i bought it off of) but it shifts so early i cant get a feal for the pwer in it. My 92 rs stock shifted harder at like 4400 rpm with a cheap shift kit. I would like to feel this power in the new car. Thanks

 

If you can not feel any power at 3500 RPM's, I would suspect the engine is a little short of its 340 HP numbers. You should be getting a good kick up the shift point. My opinion.

 

The tv cable should set it where it should be at. You should not use the tv cable to adjust the rpm you shift at because it can tear up the tranny but it sounds like yours is misadjusted so here is what a guy that used to be on the trans board a lot used to say:

To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.

I would try that and it should help your problem. As far as that motor, did he happen to give you the cam specs?

Ben