Hey Guys,

I have a 92 RS Camaro that had the 305 TBI in it. I have since replaced it with a 97 LT1 with trans. I know I can use the stock radiator but I am unsure of how to do this. Do you guys have a detailed plan of what you did? Would it be easier to buy a LT1 radiator? I thought I had to change the fuel lines running from the motor to the tank Is this true? On the hoses on my car right now they say hp? High pressure do I need to change these? Thanks

 

I found it easier just to use the LT1 radiator for a couple of reasons.

1- hose routing will be much easier
2- you can use regular radiator hoses for a LT1
3- you really need a dual fan setup anyway

For fuel lines I posted some info here.

 

I just used a griffen universal 31x19 and had a speed shop weld a 6an fitting for the steam line into it.. works well

 

I copied what Markolc did. This is what he wrote in a different topic:

QOUTE:
You can use your stock thirdgen radiator to make things bolt up much easier. You can IM me with questions if you'd like...My SN is Thirdgen Camaro.
About the cooling setup, It's not very difficult to figure out. You can EASILY reuse your existing radiator and fan setup...you just run your lines slightly differently. Here're the pieces you need:

'94 corvette lower radiator hose
'95 Camaro Z28 upper radiator hose
3/8" brass coupling
18" 3/8" ruber cooling line
6' 5/8" heater hose
6' 3/4" heater hose
assorted hose clamps
Two caps for about a 5/8" tube.

Here's how you need to run this using the stock radiator: use the 'vette lower radiator hose to connect the radiator to the gooseneck on the LT1 water pump. Use the Camaro upper radiator hose to connect the radiator to the LT1 water pump. (you may have to grind off a little of your existing radiator shroud, but it's very minor work). Now on the upper radiator hose, there will be a 3/8" rubber line kinda splicing off of it. What you need to do with that is take the brass coupling, put it on, and take the 3/8" extra piece of tubing you bought and connect it to the brass coupling, therefore extending the tube coming off the upper radiator hose. Now route that 3/8" hose under the throttle body so it pokes out past the TB on the passenger side. There you will snake it around and connect it straight to a metal coolant line that runs along the bolts on the passenger side of the intake all the way to the back of the heads. That will eliminate the need for you using the TB to pass coolant, and giving you the cheap TB bypass mod. Now to route the lines to the heater core. Take 6' of 3/4" coolant line and run it from the upper port on the water pump all the way to the 3/4" opening on the heater core. Since you have 6' to play with, you can route it pretty much anyway the hell you want (they sell pre cut 6' rolls of this stuff for $3.99 at the auto parts stores). Now take the 5/8" heater hose and run it from the lower port on the water pump (BTW, both the ports for the heater core on the water ppump are on the passenger side) and run it all the way to the 5/8" port on the heater core. Now you have pretty much all the lines run. This is now an optional/conditional point of the coolant routing. Are you going to be using the stock LT1 oil cooler? If you are, you will not have to buy the 2 caps for mentioned in the parts list, but you will have to buy 6 more feet of 5/8" cooling tubing. There'll be one port one the drivers side of the waterpump for the oil cooler. You run a hose from that port to the oil cooler, and a hose from the oil cooler back to the opening in your radiator (which was originally used as a return from the heater core in a stock setup). If you do not plan to use the oil cooler, just block the ports on the radiator and waterpump. You'll be all set. That's the whole cooling setup. Not too hard if you understand it, and I think I explained it fairly well.

If there are any more questions about wiring/routing or what not, don't hesitate to give me an IM. End Quote.

I had everything hooked up in about 10 minutes after I bought everything.

 

When I first started the swap I was using a thirdgen which blew up since my head gasket where shoot and shooting exaust into my coolant, sure looked fugly has the rad hoses where everywhere.

Now, I'm running a 93 corvette rad and lt1 hoses., looks stocks, work well.

 

And Markolc copied what I did. I later removed my T-junction and run coolant full-time through the heater core, so now I copied him a bit in return.

One note - you do NOT need some expensive aftermarket radiator. I am running the ORIGINAL radiator from my 91 RS that cooled a 305 TBI. I have a 355 LT1 that has GTP 2 heads and until last week a GTP 6 cam. I run a 160 stat and an electric pump (you don't need the pump, but my water pump crapped and it was cheaper than a factory replacement - so I went electric). Anyway, with this setup the car kept to 180 degrees ALL the time. If I was in stop and go traffic the HIGHEST it has ever seen was 190. Those temps were the same before and after the electric pump.

If possible, see if you can get a C4 water pump - since it already has the extra tube blocked off. If not, a simple $ .10 freeze plug will do the job.

Mark has good pics of how to route everything on his site. If anyone needs more, e-mail me driectly.

 

As far as aluminum radiators go the griffen universal is pretty cheap.. Just an aftermarket option.. Now the custom fits.. THOSE are expensive