350 into an 82 T/A.... A/C question
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 814
Likes: 1
From: Savannah GA
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
350 into an 82 T/A.... A/C question
I noticed that the moron who owned the car before me didn't have a big enough wrench to take the metal fitting out of the condensor... the one on the backside that runs through the firewall in the evaporator. instead, he took the other fittings out, and twisted the condensor around and around until the line broke off.
it looks like from the pictures of evaporators I've seen from advance auto, that this line doesn't disconnect from the evaporator... it's permanently attached. meaning, i have to replace the darn thing.... any ideas? does the line have a fitting on the evaporator? or do i just need to buy a new one, along with a heater core?? (since I'm in there anyways........)
any help is appreciated.
it looks like from the pictures of evaporators I've seen from advance auto, that this line doesn't disconnect from the evaporator... it's permanently attached. meaning, i have to replace the darn thing.... any ideas? does the line have a fitting on the evaporator? or do i just need to buy a new one, along with a heater core?? (since I'm in there anyways........)
any help is appreciated.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Man, just when I thought I'd heard about every hilljack kind of thing somebody could do, along comes another one. You can get an evaporator at the junkyard, pretty cheap.
The evap and the heater core don't really have much to do with each other, as far as working on them.
You can remove the entire evaporator housing with about 7 screws; about 3 of them are in the interior, and the rest are in the engine bay. The whole housing just lifts out. It's far easier to get the evap back into it with it out, and get everything to seal, and all taht; plus it gives you a chance to clean everything up.
The evap and the heater core don't really have much to do with each other, as far as working on them.
You can remove the entire evaporator housing with about 7 screws; about 3 of them are in the interior, and the rest are in the engine bay. The whole housing just lifts out. It's far easier to get the evap back into it with it out, and get everything to seal, and all taht; plus it gives you a chance to clean everything up.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 814
Likes: 1
From: Savannah GA
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
hahahahaahaha!!! that's great.... hilljack.... I need to remember that...
so I DO need to replace the evap, then? the line doesn't screw out of it?
so I DO need to replace the evap, then? the line doesn't screw out of it?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 814
Likes: 1
From: Savannah GA
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
verdict is in... it's gonna need a new evaporator. the *** didn't have a wrench big enough, so now it's gonna cost me 250. dick. anyway, wish me luck with my swap. should be goin down pretty soon.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Last time I wanted an evaporator, I paid $30 at the boneyard for a complete evap housing with the evap still in it; went out and pulled the one I wanted off of a car myself, took about 10 minutes from the time I parked at the yard until I was leaving..... I wouldn't pay $250 for one if I could help it.
The line is suppoed to screw off of it. There's actually a large nut on the line, and a hex chunk of metal on the evap itself that you're supposed to use a wrench to hold still. It's pretty straightforward really.
Good luck!!! That was pretty funny, like I said, it's just amazing how bad people will destroy stuff sometimes from pure stupiditiy, I hope you can recover the car from it; and that there aren't a bunch of other moronic things done to it.
The line is suppoed to screw off of it. There's actually a large nut on the line, and a hex chunk of metal on the evap itself that you're supposed to use a wrench to hold still. It's pretty straightforward really.
Good luck!!! That was pretty funny, like I said, it's just amazing how bad people will destroy stuff sometimes from pure stupiditiy, I hope you can recover the car from it; and that there aren't a bunch of other moronic things done to it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 814
Likes: 1
From: Savannah GA
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
other than the interior being completely disassembled, i think I'll be ok. I got an evap from a junkyard yesterday, and I'm gonna see how it works. if it leaks, I'll need a new one though.... is it a pretty good bet the one i got is in good shape? I'll keep you posted on the other crazy crap i find wrong, but so far, it isn't too bad. I think he didn't have the car long enough to do much damage. thanks for the help!
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