Actually, i just took the wire from the ignition coil and spliced into that. I think the brown wire works, I don't see why it wouldn't.

 

Alright turned car over but did not here fuel pump come on what did i miss?

 

either fuel enable or fuel pump relay. The fact that its cranking means VATS is working.

 

I'll see if i can find the fuel enable. I looked for it before i fired it up but no luck. how did you guys bypass or get rid of vats?
easiest and cheapest way please

 

you can "hotwire" the relay to make sure it works.. put gnd on the wire that the computer plugs into. I think it is grn/wh check that though.. if you put 12v on the wire goign to fuel plump (mine was tan/wh) you can make the pump turn on.. both of these ideas are for testing though. Fuel enable wire is blue and is the blue wire in the connector under the dash where the old computer was. its the connector that has no where to plug into after you took out the harness.

 

I had my fuel relay hardwired for about a year. When the key was on, fuel pump was on.

 

I think i found the dk blue enable under the dash on the passenger side is this the right one or is it in the engine compartment somewhere? i ran a wire to it and nothing.
is this cuase of vats?

 

Should be pin "L" but this won't make the fuel relay come on.. My car will run for 2sec then die, with or withour this wire connected. You Should check the relay.. make sure it has power B+ (12ga orange) to it.. and tan white goes to fuel pump, green/wht is the pcm wire. and the other I think black is gnd. So if you take a jumper and go from gnd to green/wht you should trip the relay. If relay is ok, then you check grn/wht to pcm.. If that's ok.. make sure you have all 3 power wires on the pcm.. 2x pink which are hot in run.. and a orange. which is bat 12v .. I had 1 pink off and it wouldn't run pump..

 

simpler test would be to just swap the fan and fuel pump relays.

 

I do got all the pinks together and i do have wire to pin l (dk blu)
I'll try that thanks

 

i was thinking the wiring was the prob, more than the relay.. but on mine fuelpump relay is a different connector than the fans..
Fans and MAF swap though..

check the orange B+ going to the pcm as well.

 

I checked for the tan/wht wire on the relay and nothing. the tan/wht wire is on the fan relay which has two relay. the fuel relay has a gry wire. still not working

 

ok, yours is different then mine.. i don't have a gray..
what colors are you wires and where do they go?
1 wire is B+ mine is orange. (12V fused from bat...hot all times)
1 wire is GND, goes to gnd. min it went to a ring term..
1 Wire is signal from PCM mine is Green/Wht.
1 Wire is output to the fuel pump. Mine is Tan/Wht.

If I put 12V on the tan/wht on mine it would turn the fuel pump on.. this tan/wht wire went into the c100 conn at the firewall and had a couple other wires spliced into it MAF was 1 of them. I cut them all out anyway.. was stuff that wasn't needed) this may be your gray wire.


yeah both fans also have a tan/wht wire..

 

This is the fuel relay wiring for my car

 

the only wire not connected is the brown comming off of c100

 

if you put 12V on that gray wire pin E you should turn on the pump.. won't turn on the relay though. sor you can make sure the wiring to the pump is still ok.

on mine, since the lt1 doesn't have the oil pressure switch, I removed those unneeded wires..
(I actually left the gray 1 because then I would have a "prime" wire. put 12v on it and prime the fuel.. all I did was put an end on it and taped it up.)

and sorry I also have a red wire on my relay.. going into c100.. to somewhere. believe its 12v from fuse? I'll check when I get home from work.

and the GRN/WHT should go to A7 on lt1 pcm which is also grn/wht I believe

 

Thirim i found the fuel pump wire gray off of c100. it was cut off some how. i put the 12v to it and it came on. now i got to figure out how it was hooked up.

 

I got gas in the fuel rail but did not fire up. how can i tell if i'm getting a spark or if the computor is on? also gray wire for fuel pump where did you wire yours too? and the gray wire from relay where does it go? I tryed hooking does two up turned key and nothing. Help

 

Easiest and best way to see if you have spark is pull a spark plug, leave the wire connected, set the plug on the header and have someone crank it over. Use an insulated handle screwdriver or something if you need to hold it down.

 

TexasLT1 i was giong to do that but i thought if i did i would fry the opti. Thats the way i've done it with the distributor thanks hey man got anything on relay help?

 

Alright checked for spark and nothing. I still don't know where to hook up gray (fuel Pump) wire or gray from relay. I have my old harness unhooked from ecm. know i have the grn/wht wire from fans with nowhere to connect do connect it with the grn/wht off of pcm? help emergency

 

check that your coil is getting power. check the wire going to it and make sure its connected to 12 volts.

after I get out of class I'll check over the diagrams I have and if no one else has posted yet I'll see what I can find for the relays.

 

Do what Texaslt1 said to do. Just unplug one of your cylinder plugs, stuff a bit of wire in thier and put the other end of the wire to a ground, have someone start the car and if you got spark, you'll feel it :P.

If that doesn't work, then check the coil like he said, take the boot going to the opti distributor, shove wire in that, and put it to a ground.

If that has spark, You need a new opti. Its not even as hard as people make it out to be, I had the opti off in about 25 minutes. Bad part is its about 240 to replace the cap, rotor, and opti =/.

Not to mention you need a stupid special reverse torx screw to get the cap off. I ended up taking a screw from my xbox which happened to be a torx and just used some vice grips and it worked perfect, lol

 

This is of course considering you wired the coil correctly.

 

I checked spark by taking old plug taping it on to the coil wire which would normally plug from coil to opti.. (plug on opti side) just get it on enough for metal to metal contact.. then put threads of plug on gnd and crank.

Relay help.. to refresh.. what yr vehicle is the FP relay and FP wiring from? When I did mine I used my 89 relay wiring and relay. If you put 12v on the gray and it turned the pump on then you connect that wire to the output on the relay.. on my 95 Wiring diagram that would be pin 87. On my 89GTA, it would be pin A.

with or without the output connected to the fuel pump, you will hear and feel the relay contacts close. better to feel because there are other relays at work. If you turn key to on not crank, you will feel relay pickup and after 2-3secs you will feel it drop out. If it isn't doing that, then either your wiring is wrong/incomplete or the pcm is not turning it on.. which you can check by putting 12v on the green white going to pcm, to see if relay picks up.. (CAN someone verify this. GRN/Wht is pin A7, shows 0V in key on and Bat+ when in run)
or to be safe severe the grn/wht, put 12v on the relay side and see if relay picks up. if it does, then wiring is ok and pcm is not putting power to A7 when it should. In which case I would triple check that B15 & 31 ORG have B+ on them and B30 & D3 pink have key on power.

I had 1 of the pinks disconnected and I was not getting spark.

anyway.. some things to try.

 

Well, the computer has nothing to do with the coil itself, just the opti I believe.

 

The only wires that i messed with was c 230 blu,c220 wht,c100 and c105. the rest of the harness is plugged into all sencers and accessories. i did not touch any other wire.

 

I took the boot off the coil and stuck a wire in it and cranked it and no spark. I also did it with #1 piston nothing also. everything i'v hooked up so far i'v done from reading the post on this board but i know i'm missing somthing Thanks guys

Check this out the orn wire going from relay to battery had a plug in and i used my light tester and no power the wire was rotted out. so i cut and splice relays are working

now i'm not getting any power out of pcm does it need to be grounded?

 

It should get its grounds from numerous places, one of the ground points on the lt1 is on one of the coil bolts, a lot of the grounds go there along with a braided ground strap that would go from the coil bolt to the drivers side fender wall to ground the chassis. Double check you got a Hot when key is on power source going to the SOLID pink wire on the coil before you go buying another coil. I have a feeling you just didnt wire the power to the coil properly. Make sure you also have your negative battery cable going to the engine block or you won't have any ground at all.

http://shbox.com/1/battery_cable_ground.jpg

When you turn the key to on do you hear your fuel pump priming? If you do, then your PCM is on, also, make sure the engine ground from the old thirdgen C100 (was a black/white wire on mine) is on a chassis ground. I just removed my wiper reservoir and put the braided ground strap from the coil to a self threading screw where the reservoir would go, then put all my grounds there from the old harness, but I got a funky wiring going on and its by no means clean, but its functional.

 

WOOOOOOO she's alive. pasky , texaslt1 , thirim thanks guys:hail: i had a bad ground on fire wall checked it with my ohm meter relocated ground.

 

Awesome, glad to hear you got it running, welcome to the club .

 

Now i need to know what hose's did you guys use for your radiator? i bought a 4th gen radiator and the upper and lower hose. but the hose's don't line up with the radiator they are off big time. I still have my 3rd gen radiator. which did you guys use.

 

I used the stock thirdgen radiator, the fourth gen radiator requires modification to fit, nowhere near a bolt on. If your thirdgen radiator has the lower outlet on the passenger side and upper outlet on the drivers side you can use that, thats what I did, I used the lower/upper 93 z28 radiator hoses, works perfectly, im also using the single fan setup and programmed the pcm to always have it on and I never go above 211*. Use the thirdgen.

 

Did you use your 3rd gen fan or aftermarket? I have my 3rd gen dual fans most likely i will use them with the lt1 if they keep it cool enough.

 

I used the single v6 fan . I actually wanted to use the thirdgen dual fans but the moron I was gonna buy them from (on the classifieds) sold them after I sent the shipment of the money order and he put return to sender on it and then offered me a discount if I bought his other parts, moron. If you got the thirdgen dual fans definatley use those, they will keep it cool, infact I don't think theirs any difference in the fan motors on the thirdgen dual and fourthgen dual.

 

glad to hear you're running.. now its my turn I guess.. I'm going to program the pcm tonight.. but to date.. still only runs for 2secs.

 

Well man, if you have a whole big headache, I wouldn't mind programming it out for you if you just pay the shipping, but I hope you get it sorted out, what exactly are you trying to do with the ALDL right now?

 

i don't think the programming is the issue.. really appreciate the offer though. do you use the ee or eeb file in the $ee package from tunercat?

im just firing up the soldering iron now.. will know in a short while if its the pcm not letting the car run or something else.

 

I don't recall off the top of my head. I think its EE4? I could be wrong.

 

Awesome, glad to hear its running. Would have been on sooner but network problems kept me off the board.

In Tunercat, use the EE definition file.

 

It's cool guys i appreciate your help. There are two outlets on the passenger side of the water pump and one on the drivers side. which did you guys plug up? and which did you use? theres also one under throttle body drivers side.

 

Plug the one on the driver's, it is for the oil cooler.

The two passenger side ones are for the heater. The top one I have going to the heater valve, the bottom one goes to the heater hardline that runs along the frame. I think.

 

if you get the right rad hose, it will have a 3/8 line y'd off it, it goes to that line under the TB.. or bypass it for some free hp so they say, and extend it to the coolent pipe for the heads.

for hose, I used a 95 hose with the 3/8 pipe tagging off it. forget if it was the upper or lower.. then temporarily I used a 25" (can be 23-25) universal hose, which is 1/2" both ends.. (to plug into the 1.25" on the water pump you put a small piece of 1.25 hose on, then the 25" 1.5" hose over that.. works fine.. or ge tthe vette hose, or whever other molded hose works.. I have yet to find 1 of the suggested hose in a shop locally to try.

 

GOOD NEWS!!! I prgrammed car without a hitch and now it runs perfect.. yeah..... Now I can move on to tidy up the wires and getting y pipe back on..

 

Kick *** man, good to hear that you got her up and running. Now just get her moving and your set . Im almost there, I get my power steering fittings tomorrow, I already got the new clutch and the flywheel turned. She should be moving again by sunday, then im heading to the exhaust shop to put my muffler and y-pipe in and then its off to the body shop for a fresh coat of black paint and then i'll be crusin' for a bruisin' .

 

Awesome man. glad to hear its running. where did you end up mounting the PCM?

 

cool man hopefly i can get mine to run for a minute. I dont have my radiator hook up yet. when i figure out which hose i can use. where can i get a/c delete pulley? I'll mess with the a/c later on.

 

Thirim how did you program your car? and what is tunercat. Don't get high tech on me I'm still trying to under stand the basic's lol.

 

I've seen AC delete pulley's running on ebay for 45-55 dollars. I dont know the part number but thats usually what they come out to on gmpartsdirect.com after being shipped too. Tuner cat is programming software to set and remove values in the PCM. You need a special cable to hook up to you aldl port (12 port item under the drivers side dash) to your laptop or PC. Tons of things you can do with it, like set your fans to come on early, remove VATS, lots of values.

 

A/C Delete Pulley GM part # 10115875

Lists on GMPartsDirect for $34.09