stand alone
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,764
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From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
stand alone
how hard is it to make your harness stand alone. i want to get either ls1 or lt1 it will be backed by a t56. but i have a carb. so can i make a harness self interfeed. or how will i get it all to work. i see threads that go from tpi or tbi to the newer engines. but what about going froma carbed specifically a l69 to a newer fi engine.
thanks
jon
thanks
jon
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Your better off buying a used harness on ebay (100-200) or getting a painless. You'll spend the same amount if you have to buy the connectors and pin them yourself. Not to mention one hell of a headache routing it all to work and diving through diagrams.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,764
Likes: 0
From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
how much is a painless kit. also dont the ls1s and lt1s from ebay come with the harness. is it hard to cut up that harness to make it self feed.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 1
Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Well I thought you were talking from scratch here, its quite common to modify the lt1 harness into the factory harness, thats what I did, the painless kits are anywhere from 500-600 dollars. www.speartech.com is what I would do if your gonna buy a whole new harness for that price, if you send them your old ones you'll save about $250 rather than going with painless and it will be complete plug and play with your old harness rather than replacing the factory fuse box.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,764
Likes: 0
From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
if i get a new guage cluster and put in the other 2 o2 sensors would i have to modify anything. also i would get a new fuel tank and sending unit and lines.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 3
From: Tampa, FL, USA
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Why does everyone try to make this so confusing ????
After removing the LT1 harness in one piece, its not hard to look at the diagrams, figure out which hookups you need and its a stand alone harness, theres a few ign +, a ground or two, a B + or two, and if auto a park switch feed, just about anything beyond that is optional.
After removing the LT1 harness in one piece, its not hard to look at the diagrams, figure out which hookups you need and its a stand alone harness, theres a few ign +, a ground or two, a B + or two, and if auto a park switch feed, just about anything beyond that is optional.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,149
Likes: 3
From: Tampa, FL, USA
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by jocww
me and diagrams dont go together
me and diagrams dont go together
Try this out, www.alldatadiy.com
get yourself a subscription for a 95 firebird with the LT1, take a look at some of the diagrams they're pretty easy to figure out, once you've got the harness using the diagrams and a multimeter its not hard to figure out what you need to hookup where, i promise its only a small handful of wires you actually need for the pcm to run the engine, after that its got an output for tach, speed signal, water temp, two for fan turn on, etc, just break it down a bit, the only real worry i see for you is if you are staying with stock cable driven gauges the obvious lack of a drive for the speedometer on the tailshaft of the T56.
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