Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

2nd Gen-3rd Gen swap

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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 04:50 PM
  #1  
blackwolf's Avatar
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From: Alaska
Car: 86 T/A, 79 Z28
Engine: carb 305, 360
Transmission: 700R4, Super T-10
2nd Gen-3rd Gen swap

I'm more into the 1st and 2nd gen camaros but now that I got a problem with my T/A I got to ask a hole different set of questions.

I own a 86' T/A with a carburated 305 (H) and just recentlly lost two cylinders (110k). I don't got alought of money right now and was thinking of useing the engine from me 79' Z28.

The engine in the camaro is a 78' 350 (.060 over) 4 bolt main, 234* @ .050 w/ .488 lif int&exh, Edelbrock Performer intake, HEI ignition w/ Accel Super coil and module, and a 650 cfm holley vs manual choke.

The T/A was recentlly I/M and registration is goo for two years. Tf If was to put the 350 in without using any electical or emissions components will the transmission (700R4) shift right?

If I was to put the ingine in without changing the cam and with all the emissions and electrical back on will it run like total crap cause the ECM won't know what to to with the bigger cam?

If I was to run with an Edelbrock Performer manifold (EGR) and a Performer cam kit Lift .398int .442exh Dur @ .050 194*int 214*exh, would the ECM be able to set fuel/air with this set up?
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:16 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The LG4 things that would hold back the 350 are the exhaust and air cleaner.

Otherwise, changing out the long block would only require a little tuning to make it run right (although the poor stock torque converter stall would kill off-the-line performance).

I would stay away from the Edelbrock stuff. If you want to change those items, get a Comp or Crane compucam, and Weiand Action + or GMPP q-jet EGR intake.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 05:35 PM
  #3  
blackwolf's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8
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From: Alaska
Car: 86 T/A, 79 Z28
Engine: carb 305, 360
Transmission: 700R4, Super T-10
Originally posted by five7kid
The LG4 things that would hold back the 350 are the exhaust and air cleaner.

Otherwise, changing out the long block would only require a little tuning to make it run right (although the poor stock torque converter stall would kill off-the-line performance).

I would stay away from the Edelbrock stuff. If you want to change those items, get a Comp or Crane compucam, and Weiand Action + or GMPP q-jet EGR intake.
I'll look into the Compucam and just keep the stock manifold for now. The Edy an Weiand were my two choses for manifold.

What would be a good stall rating on a tourqe converter?, this will be a daily driver hopfully till next summer.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 05:43 PM
  #4  
five7kid's Avatar
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Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I have the Crane 2050 compucam in my 305. It all starts working together at around 3000 RPMs. In a 350, that would be slightly lower, but if you want the max off-the-line without sacrificing too much at the top, go for a stall in that range.

If you just want it to respond a little better when pulling away from stoplights, then you can live with 2200-2500. Mine stalls at 2300 (the rebuild house thought it would stall at 1800-2000 based on what I told him I was putting it together), and for daily driving it's fine.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 10:07 PM
  #5  
blackwolf's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8
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From: Alaska
Car: 86 T/A, 79 Z28
Engine: carb 305, 360
Transmission: 700R4, Super T-10
Originally posted by five7kid
I have the Crane 2050 compucam in my 305. It all starts working together at around 3000 RPMs. In a 350, that would be slightly lower, but if you want the max off-the-line without sacrificing too much at the top, go for a stall in that range.

If you just want it to respond a little better when pulling away from stoplights, then you can live with 2200-2500. Mine stalls at 2300 (the rebuild house thought it would stall at 1800-2000 based on what I told him I was putting it together), and for daily driving it's fine.
Man i'll spend more on the damn convertor then the cam. Just goes to show that when something breaks your gonna spend some money.

I'll check into a cam and converter tomorrow and hopfully won't have to send them my right arm first before they will ship my parts.

Is there a way to bypass the conerter lockout in the 700R4?
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