i just got a 350 block and i think one cylinder has surface rust on it. can i get it off myself? also i need help picking parts for this build. here is what i want out of it....

Street mostly but power when i want it.
i want to hit mid 12s F.I. N/A
I want to stay automatic

here is what i have i am using:

350 4 bolt block bored .030, hot tanked, and magnafluxed
reconditioned 350 stock rods shot peened and new arp bolts
TRW-L2256F-30 Forged Flat Top Pistons (4 valve reliefs, -6.1cc)
Speed Pro Piston Rings

Here is what i am going to sell (make offers if you want):

416 heads machined for screw in studs, magnafluxed, decked, hot tanked, 1.94 valves
TH-350 trans missing tailshaft
TH-350 convertor
Harmonic balancer
HEI Vacuum Advance Distributor

can you help me get a crank, cam, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, oil pump, bearings, heads, gaskets? i am a newbie at this and just need a person with knowledge to teach me. thanks if you can help.

 

What you wanting to get for the TH-350 and the distributor? Hit me up on AIM (headsinner) i own my own shop and i can get you parts at cost in trade for some of your stuff.

And i hate to say it, but for a lil more than what ya paid to have those rods reconditioned ya coulda picked up some Eagle SIR forged I-beam rods with ARP wave locs already installed.

 

Take a look at some vortec heads. They are cheap and they flow great right out of the box.($520 a pair, valves and springs installed,brand new) The only down side is that they require a certain intake(the bolt angle is different), center bolt valve covers, and self aligning rockers (ebay). Bolt on 20 to 40 hp over other cast heads.

 

Yeah vortech heads i seen in the jegs magizine looked good but they do require a bunch of different stuff.. i was looking at some eldbrock heads that were only $999.00 they sounded like they were a good deal.. but i am tryin to find out about the 305 heads and porting them?? seems like every where i turn people are doing this.Anybody know why? or is it better to go w/ new ones.

Thanks.

 

If this is going to be TPI, prepare for a BIG disappointment when you get your first time slip. If I was the betting kind, I'd lay money you'll be a second or more from the 12s.

You need to lose that restriction anti-power thing to make your goal. It can be done easily enough with FI, just not with TPI. And to even get close, you'll have more money tied up in something than you would if you had just started out directly with a more performance-oriented intake, that will be most of a second faster than TPI right straight out of the box.

So, you need to make a decision before you start: 12s, or TPI. They're pretty much mutually exclusive.