I read the v6 to v8 sticky but I am still left with some questions. I have a ’91 RS and a ’87 Firebird for donor parts. I plan to go carbureted no computer.
1. The cross member for the trans can I use the one on the RS. (Some idiot removed the Firebirds)?
2. Am I to understand that I will have to get all mechanical gauges?
3. I am purchasing a 350 crate for about $1420 (long block) w/260 hp, will this be a good base to build from down the road? GM has it listed for pre ’85 applications. (4 bolt main)

 

1. It will work. The mount is different, I understand (never seen a later V6 mount), but just get one for the V8 application. I'm assuming you're using the transmission from the '87.

2. No, you can still use the electric gages. You should be able to transfer the speed sensor from the V6 transmission to the V8. I believe you'll need to find a V8 tachometer from a Camaro - again, not completely sure because I haven't dealt much with 'Birds.

3. The 290 horse version is a little better for not much more money. The Caprice crate is another possibility, has roller cam, one-piece rear main seal, but no provision for mechanical fuel pump. There are other options, but either of them isn't a bad place to start. Really depends upon your long-term goals.

 

Where are you getting your prices? I saw that one listed in summit.
I can get a 330hp for about $2000 off of E-Bay.

 

Long term goals is wide open, this car is just a toy for a guy who has become old enough that insurance costs are not an issue.

 

Then I'd start with a better base engine. The ones you & I mentioned have poor heads with 76cc chambers (no hope for them), dished cast pistons, cast crank, and lame, flat-tappet cams. When you start putting the go-fast stuff on, you'll want different heads, cam, and pistons (they're coming with PM rods these days, which aren't bad). Oh, and they're 2-piece rear main seal design, too.

You should be able to do better. A good shortblock with hypereutectic pistons can be had for about $1000. Good heads, cam, etc. for another grand. Complete longblocks with the "good stuff" often can be had for less. Get it all over in one shot instead of paying $1500+ now (don't forget shipping), of which another $1000-1500 is going to have to be spent down the road to replace what is holding it back from being "worthy".

 

I'd also check on the local SMOG laws. In some parts of the country (California) if the engine was not offered in the car body you have for the year that it was built, you will have some major problems.

You're also gonna have to do some upgrading to your suspension since the v-6 body isn't strong enough for the added torque. Just get a sub-frame connector from Spohn, their reasonably priced and easily installed - get the weld in kind because I heard the bolt-ups may develop bolt hole elongation problems. Oh, and you'll need new front coils - try Intrax from Summit, they're also reasonably priced and they're the only ones that I've seen lower a car 2". I put them on mine after the swap (with the Spohn Sub-frames) and the car looks great.

Anyway, as long as you stay away from the computer stuff, you're swap shouldn't be too hard.

Good luck.