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Opinion: Engines install techniques

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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 03:09 PM
  #1  
battman's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 87 GTA, 88 GTA, 92 TA, 72 RS SS
Engine: 350, 350, 305, 396
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, 3.23, 3.73
Opinion: Engines install techniques

Ok guys, finally ready to install the new 350 and T56. With this particular setup is easier to install engine and then install transmission or put it in all together?
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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jwfirebird's Avatar
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From: Western NY State
Car: 87 bird
Engine: enough to break stuff
Transmission: manual th400
Axle/Gears: 4.10
imo unless you have a lift, its always easier to put the trans and engine in at the same time.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:05 AM
  #3  
84 z28's Avatar
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From: Rochester NY
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
If you have a lift I recommend getting an engine lever. I just put my 355 and 700r4 in my car at one time. With the lever you can tilt the engine at a good angle to get the them both in. There about $30-$45 good investment.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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From: Rochester NY
Car: 1984 TA (1 stock / 1 custom)
Engine: LG4 / turbo LQ4
Transmission: 700R4 / 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Stock / 3:50 Moser 9"
those engine levelers are worth every penny.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I think it's best to put them in together. Mounting the tranny input into the clutch on the motor is hard, I found impossible actually.
Get a friend to help, I did it once by myself, but I broke a lot of stuff in the process. I used a motor lift bracket that mounts onto the intake manifold in place of the carb, it has 3 holes. I used the front hole, such that the tranny end would tilt down. Then once I was kinda in place, I put some wood under the oil pan, and let the engine sit, along with my floor jack under the tailshaft, then quickly swapped to the center hole on the bracket. Then you need the helper, or jack, to hold the tailshaft up, and bolt the motor into place. Then the tranny crossmember.

leave the carbed blockmounted fuel pump off, for ease of bolt entry, for the motor mounts. If this is FI, ignore that.

I could leave on one header, but not the other, I think the Passenger side one could be left on for me. I like to remove the steering shaft, it makes it easier to get your hands in there. water pump can stay on. Alt and power steering should probably be off.

route all your plug wires with the engine on the stand. Makes a 2hr sore hand bloody knuckles, into a 4 minutes "grinning-from-ear-to-ear"
type of job.

I left my starter on. zip tie all your engine bay wires out of the way, boy they're easy to snag, and tear off.
watch valve covers and brake fluid reservoir clearance.

boy this feels like a familiar post...
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:36 PM
  #6  
battman's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 87 GTA, 88 GTA, 92 TA, 72 RS SS
Engine: 350, 350, 305, 396
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, 3.23, 3.73
Thanks for all the info, Sonix are you running longtubes or shorties? I was going to try to install with both headers on.

Here are a couple shots of the engine. the picture are kinda old i have since mated the tranny with it and installed alot of little things
Attached Thumbnails Opinion: Engines install techniques-p1000205.jpg   Opinion: Engines install techniques-hsr.jpg  

Last edited by battman; Sep 14, 2006 at 11:44 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:34 AM
  #7  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
i've got the hedman shorties.
you'll have to remove your shifter of course

if you remove your steering shaft, and don't have the wide 3 bolt flange on the headers, you can probably keep them on. Yours look like they'd clear the frame rails, so it'll probably work. It's a FI car, so i'm not sure where your fuel lines are, but mine ran along the passenger side frame rail, 1/8" away from the header tubes. I re-bent mine, but it's easier with the motor out, FYI.

remove the dist cap, or you will crack it.
make sure you route your wires first!

oh, and maybe try and cover the motor somehow, I guarantee you'll scratch that, and it's so gorgeous... maybe put a towel or old rag on parts..?
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