Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 01:55 AM
  #1  
91rscamarospeed's Avatar
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Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
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i have a 1991 camaro rs with a 305..... i want to drop a 350 engine in some decent horse power!!! something with at least 500 horse if not more.. my question is what kind of block should i buy that will withstand the horses and drop right in the car!!!!! money is no problem i want some ideas and somewhat guidance thank you
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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ACCLR8N's Avatar
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From: Davisburg, MI
Car: 87 Evoluzione, 84 TransAm, 05 GTO
Engine: LT1, L98, LS2
Transmission: (2) T56 & (1) 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt w/3.73 & Stock
"Drop in": World Products 427 aluminum small block. 550HP, 2yr warranty, no fabrication or tricky wiring. Summit Racing price $12699.

Me, I'd rather pick-up a tubular LSX k-member and drop in an LS2 and T56 trans if I were rich. But that's a lot of wiring and fabrication, and you still need some NO2, turbos, supercharger to crack 500HP.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 12:21 PM
  #3  
Z28guy83's Avatar
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From: Philadelphia,Pa
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 400sb
Transmission: 700r4
look for a late 60's early 70's 4bolt main bore and stroke it with good heads and cam your numbers can be done for a few grand
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:02 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by Z28guy83
look for a late 60's early 70's 4bolt main bore and stroke it with good heads and cam your numbers can be done for a few grand
Don't use that old block, you are MUCH BETTER off using a newer block. Metallurgy has come a LONG WAY since then. Go to the wrecking yard and buy a 4-bolt main 350 Vortec block. It has a 1 piece rear seal and roller cam provisions.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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Dont knock the old 4 bolt main blocks, they will go toe to toe with any current factory block on the streets today if built the right way. If money is no object then I would definitley go aftermarket Merlin Mowtown engines or the ton of other manufacturers that offer crate engines.Dont get me wrong Fast355 newer blocks have improved by leaps and bounds but if all someone had access to was old style, the old style would work great.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by Slayre
Dont knock the old 4 bolt main blocks, they will go toe to toe with any current factory block on the streets today if built the right way. If money is no object then I would definitley go aftermarket Merlin Mowtown engines or the ton of other manufacturers that offer crate engines.Dont get me wrong Fast355 newer blocks have improved by leaps and bounds but if all someone had access to was old style, the old style would work great.

I agree, but I will knock them when you can typically get the newer blocks for the same or cheaper. The newer blocks typically have less bore wear because of the EFI/OD combination, better metalurgy, etc. Some of the 70s blocks had BAD core shift, I have seen some 350s of that era break through the water jacket at .060" over due to core shift, it is uncommon to see a newer block do that. Also the older blocks typically have several rebuilds under their belt. The newer ones are often virgin. My last Vortec 350 block cost me $200.00 for a rod knocking long block pull-out. I got it at my local Chevrolet Dealer, they only get $100.00 for the complete core from GM and will often sell them.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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Once again you are correct, maybe I came across the wrong way ( it was not my intention to ) When looking for a block to build obviously you check core shift, 2 or 4 bolt mains, all the basics. Maybe finding a good high nickle block.Personaly I never bore more than .030 over on my small block for the very reason you mentioned. Being somewhat of an old schooler I have never had any bad luck with older blocks. I just feel that people shouldnt pass up a workable block because of a few comments they read on a board. Now with that being said, Im currently looking for a LS1 to build. Believe it or not I live near a salvage yard that will sale the complete motor with wiring harnes for $800. You pretty much have to be there when they come in because folks ****** them up quick.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 10:38 PM
  #8  
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Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
ok im gonna be alittle more specific.... im gonna go alittle old school with this... im converting the tbi i have now to a carb... just personal preference and i don;t want an aluminum block just cuz of some things i have heard besides can;t go wrong with cast.... but if i buy a vortec block and put the internals i want i can crack somewhere around 500 horse??? im just trying to weigh options
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 06:07 AM
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Yes indeed you can. For 500 horses, spend most of your money and time in the Head,Cam,intake combo. Thats where youll find the most bang for your buck.Just make sure your bottom end is built for the application you choose up top.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #10  
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From: Bucyrus, Ohio
Car: 1986 Trans Am
. Can you get a 400 2 bolt? If so... toss down the $$$$ and make a 406, or 408.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 08:23 AM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Too bad your not around the Dallas/Fort Worth area. I know of a yard that has an 80s Big Block 454 from carb to pan from water pump to flexplate. They want $400 for it minus the front accessories, still get the brackets though.
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