about to finally do a 350 swap
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Joined: May 2005
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
about to finally do a 350 swap
Hello everyone, i think it is finally time to get rid of the 305. My car is a 1991 camaro rs vert, automatic. The plan is to do a mildly built carbed 350 for cruising.
In the hunt for used blocks i have a couple prospects but wanted to ask on here if you see any potential problems.
1st 350 is a 1 piece rear main seal 4 bolt block....not sure year or vehicle but casting number is 14101148
2nd choice is a 350 out of a 1980 vette casting number 14010207
My question that i think i already know the answer to is i need to get the 1 piece rear main seal because my car is a 91 correct?
In the hunt for used blocks i have a couple prospects but wanted to ask on here if you see any potential problems.
1st 350 is a 1 piece rear main seal 4 bolt block....not sure year or vehicle but casting number is 14101148
2nd choice is a 350 out of a 1980 vette casting number 14010207
My question that i think i already know the answer to is i need to get the 1 piece rear main seal because my car is a 91 correct?
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
Either block will work. The 1 piece RMS block would be a more direct fit, though.
Last edited by Apeiron; Jun 12, 2007 at 12:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 93
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
really? that would be great becasue the 1980 vette block i can get for nothing.
Is there disadvantages to having this 2 piece rear main seal over the 1 piece?
Is there disadvantages to having this 2 piece rear main seal over the 1 piece?
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
You'd need to change the flexplate to use the 2 piece block, and the dipstick would be on the driver side. Nothing that couldn't be overcome.
You wouldn't be able to use a factory roller cam in the 2 piece block though, which is a bit of a moot point if the 1 piece block doesn't already have a roller cam.
You wouldn't be able to use a factory roller cam in the 2 piece block though, which is a bit of a moot point if the 1 piece block doesn't already have a roller cam.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
ok thanks again, i am just gonna pick up the 1 piece block and build it from that starting point
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The '80 block should also have passenger side dipstick. '79 was last year of driver's side, from what I've seen. At any rate, there's nothing special about the Vette block, it's just a production block that happened to end up on a Vette. I'd still go for the 1-piece block like you said you're going to do - much less prone to leaks. And, some of them that didn't get a roller lifter cam from the factory were still machined to accept it - the parts can be had fairly cheaply.
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
five7kid- i am going to look at the 1 piece block today. It is supposedly a crate motor that was built between 87-90 but the owner doesnt know if it was machined for a roller cam or not. Is there a large advantage to be had over a roller block then a flat tappet design.
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I wouldn't call it "huge", especially from a bang-for-buck standpoint, but if I have roller lifters already, I'd keep them (wait a minute, I did keep them!
). One piece rear main seal is a bigger advantage in my view than roller lifters - but that's not a diss on roller lifters.
When you get into really high lifts, you need to be careful because the stock roller lifter "stroke" is limited. Comp (I think it is) makes longer lifters to take care of that. But, for the typical street/strip/performance build, the factory lifters are fine.
How complete is the engine you're looking at? Just a block?
My 350 shortblock started off as an early 90's ZZ3 crate engine. Had pink rods, although the later PM rods are probably just as good.
). One piece rear main seal is a bigger advantage in my view than roller lifters - but that's not a diss on roller lifters.When you get into really high lifts, you need to be careful because the stock roller lifter "stroke" is limited. Comp (I think it is) makes longer lifters to take care of that. But, for the typical street/strip/performance build, the factory lifters are fine.
How complete is the engine you're looking at? Just a block?
My 350 shortblock started off as an early 90's ZZ3 crate engine. Had pink rods, although the later PM rods are probably just as good.
Last edited by five7kid; Jun 13, 2007 at 09:57 AM.
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
ok so next question, and thanks for the patients. Been checking the casting number with chevy high performance and some other websites. Some say 14101148 casting is flat tappet truck block. Other sites say same casting number is late model roller non LT1. When i go look at this block is there any way i can tell if it is a roller or not by looking? If so what do i look for?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The world according to Mortec:
"14101148...350...86-90...4...One-piece rear seal"
The "86" part would indicate non-roller. But, Mortec doesn't always get every detail correct. 4-bolt main would indicate truck - but could also be Vette.
The easiest way to tell if a block is roller-ready is to look in the lifter valley - if the nubs in the center along the oil passage between the lifter bores are machined and drilled, it was machined for roller lifters. Also check the front of the block around the cam hole - should be a couple of tapped holes there for the cam retainer. Finally, the top of the lifter bores will be machined on a roller-ready block, as-cast for a non-roller-ready block.
Perhaps the seller is dyslexic, and it's actually "14011148...350...87-89.......Roller cam, one-piece rear seal"
"14101148...350...86-90...4...One-piece rear seal"
The "86" part would indicate non-roller. But, Mortec doesn't always get every detail correct. 4-bolt main would indicate truck - but could also be Vette.
The easiest way to tell if a block is roller-ready is to look in the lifter valley - if the nubs in the center along the oil passage between the lifter bores are machined and drilled, it was machined for roller lifters. Also check the front of the block around the cam hole - should be a couple of tapped holes there for the cam retainer. Finally, the top of the lifter bores will be machined on a roller-ready block, as-cast for a non-roller-ready block.
Perhaps the seller is dyslexic, and it's actually "14011148...350...87-89.......Roller cam, one-piece rear seal"
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 93
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From: michigan
Car: 1991 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: auto
Re: about to finally do a 350 swap
thanks for the help...have to wait to go look at the block untill this weekend. Ill let you know what it looked like since you have been helpful in my quest lol.
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