Bill D 91 RS

I thing I can get a 327 from a friend of mine for fairly cheap. What I was wondering is am I going to have any problems installing it in my car and will it be worth the effort? The 327 is after all only 22 more cubic inches. I think I heard somewhere that these were high revving motors. If that is true the I could bump up my gearing too? Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Bill D.

GOLD85

i would put a 327 in place of a 305. 327 has a bigger bore therfor you can run bigger valves, and it unshrods the valves more than a 305. you are right about the 327 being a revy motor. some 3:73s with a high stall converter would get the motor reving into its"power band".

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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast

Bill D 91 RS

The car is not automatic. I was considering putting in 4.11 gears, a posi unit and an aluminum drive line. The car isn't my daily driver so I don't much care about milage. This is for fun after all. Can anyone give my there opinion about this setup or possibly hot to improve it? Also I would like to stay with EFI. What system is best for a high revving motor?

Thanks again
Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill D 91 RS (edited October 22, 2000).]

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Having had more than one 327, as well as a 327-block 302, I can say that the 327 was a good engine, perhaps the best small block they ever made. The talk about them needing to rev high to make power is a bit overstated. I've seen some pretty torquey 327's.

You really need to know what type of 327 your friend has. They were anything from a low-po 2bbl grocery getter to a barely streetable hide fryer. Also, '62-'67 327's had small journal cranks, while '68-later had large. The '68-later weren't performance engines, typically, because the 350's were handed that baton. To the best of my knowledge, all were 2-bolt mains, but that's not such a bad thing. Pistons could be dished, flat, or dome.

Regardless of vintage, the heads weren't the best of pieces. They didn't have the accessory holes until '68, so any earlier parts would cause problems mounting things in your car. A better bet would be aftermarket heads with larger valves, like Gold says. Get pistons to match your heads for the compression you want (assuming you're rebuilding the short block).

How high reving it will be really depends upon the package you put together - cam, heads, induction, etc. You said you want EFI - tuned port will limit you to about 5800-6000, after spending a lot of money for aftermarket base, runners, & plenum. You can use a good carb manifold w/TBI with acceptable results. What system do you have now? Might be best to build around it, since most anything can be made to run.

The typical roller vs. non-roller cam, 1-piece vs. 2-piece rear main seal issues also apply.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

Bill D 91 RS

I figured that new heads were a given. will it matter so much what it came out of if I decide to do a rebuild on the motor? right now I have a TBI system on my 305.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you're putting on new heads and installing a new cam during a rebuild, the only reason you'd need to know its vintage is for the bearing sizes. The crank grinder could tell you what you have and what to get for your new bearings.

Rods might be another issue, but if you're keeping it below 6k rpm's, most any factory rod that's up to spec should be okay. If you get above that, you'd want some good parts, and the big end size will be determined by pre- or post-'68.