My engine runs good but is starting to loose its pep. I've been a backyard mechanic for quite a while and I'm getting ready to tackle ripping out my AC components, rebuilding my 305 block, bolting on a set of headers and possibly swapping to a 5spd trans just so I can shift something every now and then... Anyone have any recommendations on a quality rebuild kit or recomendations on specific components such as cam, rods, pistons, rings, timing, gasket sets, water pump, distributer? I want to reuse my existing block, heads, and TPI setup. I also want to relocate the oil filter to somewhere on the fender well so it can be replaced quickly and more often. Has anyone tried this? I do a lot of long trips so I want quality parts and good performance. I'm not interested in racing as much as crusing at 90 to 100 for several hours.

 

you'll get a differant answer from everyone that replies. i like clevite77s ,fel pro, moly rings, lunati cams and related parts, melling m55 pump, brass freeze plugs, double roller chain, hyper pistons are great middle ground but they transfer a lot of heat to the rings and are very hard and break easy with power adders

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

For a basic rebuild, an inexpensive kit is a good idea if you throw out the head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and intake end seals.

I recommend ROL or fel-pro head gaskets, dead soft aluminum (percy's) for exhaust with hedders and fel pro ultra-seal without (with manifolds), and use silicone for the end seals.

Most kits come with vandervill or clevite bearing anyway. Cast rings seat faster for a mild performance rebuild anyway.

Some people will call me an *** for using silicone on gaskets, but the rest of the gaskets (paper) hold up well with a thin film of silicone on both sides (so thin, it's not a bead just a shiny trasparent film)

If it comes with a neoprene rubber rear main seal (they all do don't they [is the rope dead?]) offset it in the cap (so the ends arn't flush with the block and put a small film on the ends right before tightening (DONT GOB IT ON!) Make sure to rub a small amount of assem lube around the crank where it meets the seal. Spin the crank after allowing plenty of time for the silicone to dry to make sure it didn't stick to the crank. This is the biggest, and most often,
mistake i see people doing, resulting in a oil stained driveway (because nobody ever wants to tear back into there after the fact)

3M Contact adhesive (the yellow stuff) works as a excellent (maybe better) substitute for the silicone in the rear main.
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited March 26, 2001).]

 

I might decide to go with droping in a beefed up rebuilt 350. I need to price some junkyard blocks, what should I look for in particular? I don't think all 350 blocks are the same...and I want to make this as easy as possible for an 85 TA 305 TPI all stock.

 

northern auto parts ( www.northerntautoparts.com )
has great prices on engine rebuild kits. if your going with the 350, a kit is only 154.
the 305 kits are around 200
victor gaskets, melling oil pump and timing set, clevite bearings, fedral mogul cam and lifters, hasings rings(moly for $8 extra), pioneer freeze and oil plugs, and speed pro pistons. pretty sweet deal if you ask me. i just got mine last week.

 

If looking for a junkyard block, inspect the bore (no over), take of the timing cover and cam gear and inspect the hole. If the cam sits in the middle of the machined surface then the block has minimal core shift and sounds good. The numbers "10" and "20" (preferably both) under the timing cover indicate higher amounts of tin and nickel in the casting making it stronger. 4 bolts are good, but nothing wrong with 2 bolts. Inspect for cracks everywhere (of course) and other damage.



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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

 

Sorry this is so long, everyone has been real helpful in the past. All right here’s what I want to do; I want to rebuild a junkyard 305 block and bolt on a used 5spd manual in place of my failing automatic (I get a kick out of shifting s*** around town). I’m on a really tight budget for this project & I’m trying to figure my cost so I can make sure I can cover it. She’s my daily and I need to get the engine and trans ready for a weekend swap so I can go to work the next week : ) If I get the block from the yard for $150 and I dissemble everything and take the heads to the machine shop, how much am I looking to spend there and what should I have them do? I’m not really looking for beefing it up much, maybe a different cam – something mild like fair idle, moderate performance. Anyone got any real good suggestions on a cam for someone who likes to race ONLY every now and then : ) but does have to drive long distances and likes good gas mileage. Should I have the crank machined or should I go with a reman from NAPA? I figured I would use a master rebuild kit, I’m guessing most shops use them as well? What about connecting rods? Any ideas on gear drive timing setup? I’m going to do some TPI work while the block is being done, are there any gasket kits that are recommended? I’m ordering a set of Accel 19lb injectors and changing to an Accel ECM in the distributor. Do the injectors come with all the O rings and everything needed? I figured I would reuse the stock distributor and my Accel cap and coil, AC Delco rapid fire plugs and Accel wires. I want to relocate the oil filter to somewhere in the engine compartment (easy changes) and run an oil cooler anyone got any suggestions on a recommended kit and placement? And who has the proven best water pump on the market? Should I pop in a 160* thermostat? And last but not least, are there any rigid 10 bolt rear covers that are liked over the stock? I understand they should reduce flex in the housing? I’m looking for quality parts but I’m also not a weekend racer just a car lover, ideas and part numbers are greatly appreciated…