morepowerjoe

I really need the paint code for my car so I can touch up under the hood. There's like four colors at the parts store that look close but I hate to buy the wrong ones cause their like six dollars a piece.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Joe, if you initially run the more aggressive cam, did you modify your stock fuel pressure regulator yet (to make it adjustable)? Prior to dialing in the tune all the way where it needs to be, for now, your more than likely going to have to play around with your idle; at a tad higher RPM, along with your fuel pressure w/that particular cam (although the 350 injectors will help there). Here is the article if you already didn't do this yet, its very easy....;

https://www.thirdgen.org/tbi-afpr

morepowerjoe

I'll do that mod to the fpr for sure. I new when I rebuilt the tbi there had to be a way to do that. I also want to add a fuel pressure test port somehow so I can check it with my gauge. I would also cut the center out like you did, but I'm gonna wait and get it running first and see how I like this tbi stuff.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yes, you can easily tap into the fuel line and install a fuel pressure gauge w/schraeder valve anywhere you like. Cut a schrader valve off of any donor in the junkyard (leave a decent amount of steel fuel line on both sides), get four saginaw fittings, then using a flare tool, plumb it right into the existing steel fuel line anywhere you'd like, or anywhere that seems feasible (just be sure to target the correct diameter steel fuel line in the junkyard, as well as saginaw fittings). If you don't want to bother doing what I did to the throttle body, you can always upgrade to a 454 TBI throttle body which are still plentiful in the junkyards (by me, they give them away because there is really no more demand for them)....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

.... if you don't want to stick with TBI, you can always go with port injection later down the road. These guys make an EFI manifold for the Oldsmobile engine, complete w/injector bungs, rails, and crossover fuel line. All you would need then is injectors, 90 degree elbow, and throttle body, as well as a few other things. The beauty of the EBL is that it will dial in your TBI for now, then if you decide to upgrade to port injection down the road, it will handle that as well.

http://stores.ebay.com/Brothers-Perf...subZ0QQ_sasiZ1

morepowerjoe

That intake is the one I refered too a little while back I think. It's made by Proffesional Products and looks pretty nice. Only problem is that it's for big block olds. I think the olds bb intake is like a 1/4" wider than a sb. So I think you can have it machined down to fit. I thought about trying to use a victor intake but it would cost way more then just having the crosswind intake machined because the victor is like $400 and then you have to put in injector bungs and make fuel rails.

89-bird

Check out the Classic Industries BossEFI Single Quad setup . You won't have to worry about chips or any computer stuff other than the supplied engine manegment system and components and it looks like a Holley 4150 and comes in returnless or return fuel system setups . You just basicly bolt on and go .

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

... ran a quick search out of curiousity. Apparently port injection came standard on 75-81 Cadillac Seville's that ran the 350 Olds engine. Here is a website in which the owner swapped one onto his 403 Olds engine, then later adapted a '165 ECM (converted to '730). It would allow you to scrap the injector pod in the throttle body (just block off the opening), and run eight injectors. Interesting read, give me your thoughts.

http://grimers.com/vehicles/olds/403efi/index.html

morepowerjoe

Yeah I've read about those set ups. Pretty cool huh? Those intakes are becoming kinda rare. If definitely shows me though it can work. I will go that route soon too.

Painted the engine today, I'll post some pics soon.

morepowerjoe

Well here's the latest. I spoke to Brian at tbichip.com about my set up. He said 350 injectors would be a must but recomended I keep my carb. I waiting for him to email me back to see what all I would have to do to make the tbi work. But I have a feeling he's going to say the cam isn't computer friendly. But we'll see what he says. If that is the case then It won't really hury my feelings too much. I'm not going to change the cam just for that tbi stuff. If I got to do that I'll just use my carb until January and then go mpi and pick the right cam for that set up so I'm not buying stuff for nothing. And also by then I'll be able to go with the ebl system to run it. But none the less I will have efi in Febuary.

Rob, if I go with the carb for now, what do you think I will have to do with the vats and speedo?

I had to go with the gold.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Joe, that looks absolutely incredible. The gold is way more fitting, after all, it is an Olds.

Brian may be a little inexperienced when it comes to tuning cams on the more radical side, especially mail order tunes, but he is wrong to imply that it wouldn't work as well though. Jet Performance can also burn TBI chips, just to initially get you going. Just be sure to give them every single detail about the engine. The fuel pressure regulator mod is a must to work in conjunction with the new chip....;

http://www.jetchip.com/JET_Chips_Modules.asp

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

.... not sure what they charge for a custom chip burn, but here is their spec form;

http://www.jetchip.com/Custom_Chip_Specs.asp

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I started a thread for the V6 Camaro that I picked up, but my plans changed though. I was initially going to turbo charge the V6, but when I pulled the engine out, the crank needed to be turned, and the bores need to be honed, and I didn't want to invest that much time and energy into the 2.8 because I had the 355 sitting in the garage. I need to get some new pics up, as I just finished welding in some fresh quarter panels, swapped rears, installed a 4th gen interior, and some additional body parts that I had lying around from other projects. I have pictures of when I first brought it home when I saved it from the crusher, and after the new rims w/body parts were installed though....;

.... before;



.... and after (far from finished though);

morepowerjoe

Thanks Rob. Yeah I thought I would try to be true to old Ransom Eli Olds.
I think I might try to start it just for kicks with the stock stuff since it's all there. But unless some miracle occur I'm just gonna run my carb for a while longer until I can get the ebl or the stuff to burn my own chips. I'm kicking myself right now for putting those engine mounts in the middle. It makes it hard to wire the starter and bolt up the mount on that side. I'm making good progress though shouldn't be much longer.

morepowerjoe

Brian emailed me back and said he's basically not comfortable with making a chip for the olds engine. He just doesn't have any experience with olds. I guess people don't ask for a chip for an olds engine everyday to use with tbi. Go figure.

Cool deal on the v6 camaro saving it.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I'm honestly not surprised. Jet Chips can do it for you, but for what they would charge you to do it, you can by the EBL Flash, so it would defeat the purpose. Yeah, I would try and start it up just for the hell of it to see if it will hold an idle w/the stock TBI setup. Then run the carb until you finalize the injection system that you want to go with. You have many many options, so don't ever get frustrated....

morepowerjoe

Thanks a lot for your support Rob. I post some pics and video when I'm done. Hopefully it'll be soon.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You can also go the same route that I did for very cheap, and that is with the Megasquirt-II system. Here is one on a 401 w/Throttle Body Injection (controlling fuel only like I mentioned earlier, but that is optional w/Megasquirt). Read the description on the side of the video for some of the engine specs....;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua0D4yFXK8k

morepowerjoe

The megasquirt sounds like a good deal too. I'll keep that in mind as well. It sounded good on that truck.

Check out what I did. I made the guts from the 86 chevy large cab electroninc dizzy fit in my olds dizzy. And I kept my mechanical and vacuum advance so I can switch between the two if I need to.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Very nice work Joe! What color are you going to paint the dizzy housing, or will you just sand it back down?

morepowerjoe

I don't know. May be match the valve covers or paint it black? What do you think?

drop top roc

That F.I. set up is nasty, wouldnt mind having that on this 86' regal 455/400th that im putting together.Cool pic, is that in a f-body?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I would either strip it down, and/or or paint it chrome to match the air cleaner, this way the rest of the engine scheme isn't too overpowering. Meh, thats just my opinion though. I keep staring at the engine bay and I can't get over how easy future spark plug changes will be for you w/that Olds 350. I'm actually considering a Pontiac 400/455 now, because of it lol....

Coincidentally, that engine is in an '86 Regal like yours. Not sure if the owner still has it, but at the time it was running (as per the owner); Megasquirt ECU to control the fuel, ignition is handled by a standard HEI, BBK TPI 58mm throttle body for 1988 F-body, 30lb injectors, adjustable boost referenced pressure regulator, custom fuel rails, modified T/A SP-1 intake manifold, custom fabricated sheetmetal airbox, K&N air filter.....

.... here is a Buick 455 (w/carb) in a '87 Trans Am, it was in an issue of Hot Rod early 2000;

morepowerjoe

That is one of good things about this set up, spark plugs are definetly easy to get to. I hated the chevy in there when I was trying to do a compression test. Especially when it was hot. And most people tell you to do a compression test "right" it has to be warmed up. I did it cold and hot and the numbers where almost exactly the same. That is one thing I really don't like about chevy is that spark plug under the exhuast manifold design.

Today I'll have most of the install done. And I'll see how much work it'll be to try and fire it with the stock ecm stuff.

morepowerjoe

JamieSweet
Junior Member

Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 89

Classifieds Rating: (0)


Re: What is a complete 455 rocket worth
They really aren't anything special, they're not competitive, dollar-for-dollar, with a big block Chevy, and unless you buy everything Mondello makes, they have no potential. The Chevy LQ4 makes half again the power and 90% of the torque, with only a cam swap, while being emissions clean and getting quadruple the gas mileage, for far less money than even a mild rebuild on a 455. Face reality, leave the old stuff where it belongs, in the past.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

.... yeah Jamie, tell that to guys like Ken Crocie;



"It doesn't take long when reading car magazines to realize how each story always comes off looking easy. Even if the tale is all about trial and frustration, it can seem like another chapter out of Aesop's Fables. That's because the reader is always spared the fits and starts, and the story takes barely 30 minutes to read. The only thing more fantastic than a quick magazine story is a complete muscle car buildup in 42 minutes on reality TV. So when we tell you Ken Crocie spent months on this Pontiac turbocharger restoration and all but slept at Westech's shop in search of respectable Pontiac power, it was all in the name of doing the project justice. We came along for the ride as intrigued observers, but trust us-the suffering was all Crocie's.

Pontiac true believers will recognize Crocie's name as the man behind H-O Enterprises and its 30-plus-year Pontiac approach to performance engines and suspension goodies. If you spoke Pontiac back in the '70s and '80s, he was the man in the guru chair. One accomplishment that was way ahead of its time was a single blow-through turbocharger kit that guaranteed to double the horsepower on any 350ci to 455ci Pontiac. Crocie and then H-O owner Craig Hendrickson designed and built a kit that produced single-digit boost numbers and pushed that boost through an unlikely Q-jet carb. A few of these kits ended up in Mecum Macho T/A Pontiac Firebirds, which brings us up to the 21st century when a Crocie customer desired an upgraded stroker big-block Pontiac fitted to his original H-O turbo kit. The plan was to make the turbo package look original on the outside yet breathe as much fire as possible.

Pontiacs are big on torque, and Crocie decided to capitalize on this by upping the displacement on a middle-child 400ci motor with a stroker crank that created what Crocie calls a 488 (it actually calcs out at 489, but who's counting?). Before going any further, Crocie emphasized that this was a restoration project, not the typical hunt for maximum horsepower. The goal was a restofied Trans Am that should look just like one of those Mecum machines from the early '80s-along with a carefully placed wink and a nudge.

Crocie started with a basic Pontiac block that he immediately punched with a 0.040-inch-larger bore and added a 3/4-inch-longer Scat 4.50-inch crank to replace the stock 3.75-inch piece along with Scat forged 6.700- inch-long H-beam rods. This created a 489ci monster to which he added a Probe piston with a generous dish to keep the compression at around 8.3:1. The plan was to allow the turbocharger to make up for the low static compression. Since the engine would be street driven and turbochargers tend to respond to short-duration camshafts with wide lobe-separation angles, Crocie spec'd a custom Comp Cams hydraulic roller using the XFI lobe design. This lobe was created to generate maximum lift from a relatively short duration that he combined with the Comp 1.5:1 roller rockers. All the machine work was performed by Outlaw Racing.

Because this was a resto of sorts, Crocie had to retain the iron Pontiac 6X heads that got the bigger 2.11/1.77-inch valves upgraded to a set of stainless SI versions along with better springs and retainers after Tim Martindale of Outlaw Racing Engines did the porting work. Crocie then topped the whole package off with an Edelbrock Performer (yes, that's right) dual-plane intake that had to be used because of hood clearance issues. Of course, that choice wasn't nearly as restrictive as the original factory exhaust manifolds. But as you will see, even with these limitations, this Pontiac compensates quite nicely.

While many of the described parts may seem overly restrictive given the search for power, the one overriding factor that makes up for much of this is the turbocharger. Back in the day, Crocie used a rather small Rajay turbo. Now that hair dryers have had almost 30 years to improve, he sought help from PT Turbochargers to give this original spinner a much-needed boost. He gave the original turbo back to the customer and started from scratch. The entire compressor housing side was exchanged for a much more modern 60mm Rotomaster. Mounting the turbo in the original location with the same bracket demanded an original Rajay exhaust housing, but it was too small at 1.0 A/R, so Performance Turbos dug up a sole-surviving 1.3 A/R Rajay housing. Along with an equally rare Rajay centersection using newer compressor and exhaust turbine wheels, this turbo is definitely a one-off piece.

As it turned out, assembling the parts and building the engine was the easy part. Once Crocie bolted the 489 to Westech's dyno, all sorts of weird things began to occur. With the first pull on the dyno, Crocie knew something wasn't right. "We could hear a whoosh-type noise as soon as the turbo spooled up," Crocie says. That's when he realized the wastegate was too small, so the motor came off the dyno until he found a larger valve.

With the larger wastegate installed and venting, the engine would sometimes make lots of boost and power, and then other times, the power would just drop off. "We kept looking for the rag in the manifold," Crocie jokes. He and Westech's Steve Brule must have checked to ensure the secondaries were opening a dozen times. Everyone was bagging on the Q-jet, so they tried a Holley and the power instantly came up. For anyone else, that would have been the end of the story. But Crocie wasn't willing to give up on the Q-jet so easily, especially because decades earlier the Rochester carb had worked flawlessly. He was determined to find the problem.

This simple set screw now ensures that the large Q-jet secondary throttle plates open with the linkage and do not remain closed under boost.After several abortive attempts, he decided to start measuring everything that moved, including boost pressure in the manifold and the hat. That's when he discovered he had 19 pounds of pressure in the hat and only 6.5 psi in the manifold. Clearly something was amiss, and everything pointed to the Q-jet's unique secondary throttle linkage arrangement. When the choke is on, a small lever engages a lock on the secondary throttle linkage that prevents the secondary blades from opening. The secondary shaft employs a spring that wraps up and allows the primaries and the linkage to fully open. From the outside, this appears to be wide-open throttle (WOT). The reality is that the spring merely wraps up, while the secondary blades remain closed. When Crocie applied 19 psi of boost pressure through the top of the carburetor, the pressure on the large secondary blade surface area was enough to prevent the linkage from opening the blades. The fix was to use a large set screw to create a direct connection to the throttle blades.

Crocie has repressed the actual number of times he was up on the dyno with this motor before achieving the crushing torque and 530-plus-horsepower numbers that were his goal. He ran the engine on Rockett 100-octane unleaded race gas with the 18-psi max boost pressure. For the street, single-digit boost numbers can run on 91-octane fuel.Getting the secondaries to open merely created the opportunity for more problems. Crocie knew the Q-jet was limited to a single fuel inlet, so he had previously modified the needle and seat to increase the area by roughly 100 percent from the stock 0.110-inch diameter to 0.150 inch and raised the fuel pressure to 9 psi-but the air/fuel ratio vagaries persisted. He then tried an Edelbrock Q-jet that solved the problem, which then led him on a quest to discover why his original carburetor failed. He discovered a photo in a now-out-of-print book, Rochester Carburetors by Doug Roe, in which Roe illustrates a secondary main well restriction and how to remedy the issue. The critical photo is on page 252 if you have a copy of the book. Crocie modified his carburetor and then had to dramatically lean the air/fuel ratio with Q-jet metering rods that finally delivered the air/fuel ratio to a slightly rich 12:1. These last few changes required at least half a dozen trips to the dyno-all in the name of making the right power for this package. But once he got it all sorted out, the Pontiac really made some steam.

Once Crocie cleared the fuel metering hurdle, this Pontiac made some thumpin' torque. The final question arose when they discovered the Pontiac's torque peak was somewhere on the south side of 3,500 rpm-and the 489 was making well over 700 lb-ft even at that rpm. Crocie felt the factory block may not be able to take the abuse, so all testing began at 3,400 rpm with peak torque somewhere below this starting point. Ultimately, the engine made an astonishing 744 lb-ft and a respectable 537 hp. The horsepower numbers obviously could be far greater with a better intake, carb, and exhaust, but given this Pontiac's heritage, these are killer numbers. The biggest problem will be finding a pair of rear tires that can handle the torque"....

Note that this engine makes all this power with SINGLE-DIGIT boost numbers, lets see the LQ4 make that much power with a mere 8-psi of boost. As for it running cleaner, that is absolute nonsense. Any engine can run clean with the right setup and ECM lol. The Pontiac above ran crappy exhaust manifolds in conjunction with a dual plane intake manifold. Throw some turbo headers, single plane manifold, throttle body w/MS-II, and it will make more power than you could possibly imagine, while running very clean....

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ild/index.html

morepowerjoe

He has no idea what he is talking about. A '68 olds 455 had 400hp and 510ft.lbs of torque at 3200 rpm. And Mondello is NOT the olds guru that some people think he is. DickMiller is someone that knows what he is doing. 600 hp street engine (all motor) on pump gas from a 403 that some people think is junk.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ine/index.html

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Agreed. The aftermarket jumped on the small and big block Chevy, as well as the Ford bandwagon, which is the main reason why the BOP engine families didn't garner as much recognition as they should have, exept maybe from the loyalists. An engine is an engine, and other than an all aluminum casting, the newer LSX engines reverted back to pushrod technology, so other than weight savings, I don't see any other major differences, except maybe in stock form, but that defeats the purpose of an engine build. There are aftermarket aluminum Oldsmobile cylinder heads out there that flow incredibly well, not to mention fuel injection setups, ignition systems, camshafts, exhausts, and 32-bit adaptable processors....

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Those are gross flywheel HP numbers. The LQ4 is rated using net flywheel HP.

morepowerjoe

Couple things. First off most of the numbers given in the late sixties where insurance friendly to begin with they were usually higher. Second. Comparing a 2000 model engineered engine, 2000 model engineered fuel injection, computer controlled, and built for a heavy duty truck to a engine from 1968 is a little unfair. But let's compare. Jamie said you can get a olds 455 basically all day for $150. I know I could have it rebuilt parts and labor for around $2000 with a camshaft from this decade or even the last. We could even make it fuel injected and pull out more hp/tq. Even with the accessories and all that we could easily get to 450 hp from guys that KNOW how to build it. And your lq4 makes 3-325hp. And even if it made 500hp how much does a new lq4 cost with all the computer stuff or a new 2000 model chevy truck. I'm not saying a lq4 is a bad engine, heck most of the chevy's were all decent. But to say that basically Oldsmobile sucks is talking out you a**.

morepowerjoe

Here's your spark plug change area Rob.


I'm getting there. All the little things are eating all my time up. Things like that dizzy, the throttle bracket, rearranging the p/s pump lines. Just stuff like that.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

.... haha, rub it in lol. It's looking absolutely amazing. The little things are always time consuming, but always rewarding in the end when you have everything just right. What about the remaining part of the air conditioner system, will you be pulling that in favor for an AC delete box, or will you be reinstalling the AC system?

morepowerjoe

I kinda want to pull it, but since we live in Texas I think I'm going to have to eventually hook it back up.

orangeBird11

hi i have a couple of questions. i just put an olds 350 in an 82 trans am, i noticed u used G-body headers in yours? what brand are they? and did u have to motify them to make them fit? or will they just fit right in? and also whats the name of the air filter your using? thanks in advanced.

morepowerjoe

Cool. I haven't ever heard of anyone else putting an olds engine in a thirdgen f-body besides myself. It's been so long ago I bought those headers, I think they were flowtech. But most all of the long tubes designed for a olds in a g-body should be close to each other. The headers fit ok except for a couple things. The passenger side has one tight spot on the top back corner of the crossmember right on top of the brake line. Depending on how far forward or back wards you put the engine. Further back is better but you then have the top of the tranny touching the firewall somewhat. The first time I had the motor mounts in the front position on the engine, and this time I put them in the center spot (furthest back) like in the g-body. But I wish I would have left them in the front because it's easier to get to them there. On the drivers side one of the primaries just touches the starter. It would be wise if you could afford a mini starter. That's one of the biggest downfalls to the headers, if you have to take one out you will have to just about pull the engine. There is no way to pull the (stock) starter without removing the header. If you had a mini it might come out. Other than that, they hang LOW. You have to really have good shocks/struts and becarefull what you go over. I think I have maybe 3". After I had my engine built I drove it for a while with stock manifolds. Then I dived into the headers. I could really feel a big power increase. Knowing that, I would still do it even with the trouble they are. I hope this helps.

Oh yeah the air filter is a holley. It was one of the only ones I could find to fit under the hood.

Do you have any pictures of yours you could post? I would really like to see it.

morepowerjoe

This guy cracks me up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wN8Gu...eature=related
but he must know his stuff because this engine sounds awsome. There's a lot of little tricks to get some big power out of these 350's

orangeBird11

sorry im having trouble with my computer right now im trying to post some pictures but its not working. but anyway nice looking engine good luck with it. ill try to post some pictures soon if i can get it to work.

morepowerjoe

We'll, I'll be ready to fire it in a day or so I think, so I'm just going to throw this out there and I hope it's not against any rules or anything. If anyone has chip burning experience and lives with in the Houston TX area and is willing to come and help me get it running right, let me know. Of course I would be willing to pay someone for their time. Far fetched but just thought I would ask. I think it would be best if someone could come to me because it would be easier to burn a chip at the car with an engine that's not common. I have a laptop and home pc. And if anyone has the confidence to try it through the mail I would consider that too. I can borrow my neighbors scanner to data log.

If not that's cool. If it doesn't run right, which I'm sure it won't, I'll just put my carb back on for now until I can get another ecu setup.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Were you able to get your hands on a set of LO5 fuel injectors from the junkyard....?

morepowerjoe

No not yet. But there is plenty of them around here. I just didn't want to spend the money on them right now if I can't find someone to help me with the chip. Because if I can't get it running good on the fi, I need to buy a good fpr for the carb.

Do you think that there is a chance if I get the 350 injectors, stock 350 chip, and turn up the fuel pressure that it would be drivable for now or not?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

.... it will be much more docile than with the LO3 injectors and chip, that is for sure. Even in stock form, once you swap cams with an LO3 (w/out a tune), it honestly becomes a matter of what the individual considers to be streetable once they get the engine to hold an idle. IMO, the LO5 chip only cares about feeding an engine w/350 cubic inches of displacement, it doesn't care about what rod and stroke ratio's are being used to get the engine to that particular displacement, nor does it care what engine brand is being used. What effects its ability to control fueling though, of course, is the duration of the camshaft. Upping the fuel pressure will help, but it won't be perfect until she gets tuned.

morepowerjoe

I'll just give it a shot and see what happens. If it won't even try to idle with the lo3 stuff, I'm not gonna get all that stock lo5 stuff. I think I will just wait until I can get the ebl or something and get the right size injectors and fuel pump. I'll post the results soon.

morepowerjoe

Today I finally got to crank it. At first it started right up, ran rough for a couple seconds and then idled a lot better then I expected. The engine still had the lope from the cam. I kept turning it off and restarting it checking for leaks and trying to adjust the timing. But the longer it ran, within two minutes it started to run worse, and then I turned it off and tried to restart it and it wouldn't restart. I reset the ecu and tried again but now all it will do is a little back fire out the exhaust every now and then. It must have no spark now because I can see the injectors dumping fuel like crazy. Tomorrow I'm going to run the dizzy with the mechanical set up and try it one more time. If it won't crank again I'll be putting the carb back on for now.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

It sounds like the culrprit is more than likely due to the alteration of the stock Oldsmobile distributor. If there is a problem with the EST, the fuel mixture will be skewed towards the rich side, effecting your idle and backfiring. Pull apart the modified distributor and reinspect your work, make sure nothing came apart. If all is good, definitely try the mechanical setup. Can you get some video, as I'm curious to here the engine's idle....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Also Joe don't forget, the stock injectors are way too small to be used in conjunction with the stock LO3 chip, 350 cubic inches of displacement, and w/out modifying the fuel tables in the bin, and even with the distributor problem fixed, then engine will more than likely surge, especially in Closed Loop. Try this, after you setup the mechanical advance, if the engine is still not running like it initially was, disconnect the O2 sensor's connector (forcing Open Loop), reset the ECM, and start the engine again. This should help you out a little....

morepowerjoe

I looked inside the distributor and didn't see anything wrong visually. When I would pull the timing set connector it would run a lot better. So I'll just go ahead and put the mechanical stuff in. I feel like there are too many varibles with the ecu controlling my spark. At least this way I'll know it ran good with the carb set up. But let me ask this. By doing this will the ecu go into a limp mode or something? I was thinking of leaving the electronic stuff plugged in so the ecu thinks nothing is wrong.

morepowerjoe

I'll try to get you some video. When it first started the idle was choppy, but steady. It didn't have a surge which really surprised me.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Open Loop is essentially allowing your fueling to be controlled through the ECM's lookup tables (this is based on TPS and RPM, in which X amount of fuel will be given, w/no O2 correction). Many guys will run an Open Loop tune when running much larger camshafts because the MAP will have too hard of a time as it is. When the engine is cold, Open Loop is automatically enabled, but once the engine reaches around 170 degrees, Closed Loop becomes fully enabled, and the ECM will control fueling by way of O2 data. By disconnecting the O2 sensor, your not running in limp home mode per se, your just forcing Open Loop, and fuel will be based on your TPS position and RPM (Alpha-N mode). The only drawback is you will have no O2 correction, but in your case you don't want Close Loop, you don't want O2 correction, because your injectors and chip are not matched with your cubic inches and camshaft duration....

morepowerjoe

I've been thinking a lot about getting the stuff to burn my own chips. I really want to try it. But do you think I should even get into that?

morepowerjoe

How was your Turkey Day? We tried something different and cooked (cornish hens?)