91 Camaro RS 305 TBI Auto
If anybody seen my thread in the TBI section (Spark Knock ect.), you might remember I chased a rough idle and spark knock down to figure out I have for some reason low compression on all cylinders in one head. I have a 86 Camaro I put my olds 350 in a while back that's carbed but I have wanted to put fuel injection on it for a while. So I decided to go ahead and pull the olds 350 out and put it in the 91 and see how it will run with the TBI system because I like the 91 RS better and it's in a lot better shape then the 86.

The olds 350 is a '75 block with '69 high compression pistons. I had the engine rebuilt by a good race engine builder (HP Racing) a few years back and it's mainly just been sitting in the garage since. It is really fast in the 86 right now and I know it will probably be a little slower with the TBI and won't rev as high, but if I can just get the drivability out of the fuel injection I'll be happy for now. In January of 2010 I'll be replacing the TBI system with a TPI system. I'm gonna get a efi intake for it with fuel rails and all that and use the 91 TPI harness and ecu I already have. Another story later. But for now here I go.

Here's a picture of the 86 with the olds 350 right now.

 

I like to take the front bumber stuff off so I can get the engine hoist up close.

 

I've seen LO3s spun as high as 6200 rpm, so there's no problem with your rpm range, and Holley offers 670-cfm throttle bodies, they're basically the same as Chevy used on the '91-'93 454SS pickup. That'll get you plenty of air and fuel. Your main issue will be that you can't use the LO3 distributor in your olds 350. You'll need the distributor from a mid-'80s Olds 307. Even then, you'll have some wire splicing to figure out.

 

Get in touch w/RBob, Click here, as his EBL Flash would dial that engine in the right way using TBI....

 

He could also run a vacuum distributor if he wanted and have the ECM control fueling....

 

Thanks for the responses guys.
I'm really excited and can't wait to get it done. Unfortunately I have a bad back and knees, so I'm a little slower that when I was 20.

I would like to get one of those holley throttle bodies but, that's one of the reasons I'm doing this swap because I don't want to spend a lot of money right now. If I had plenty of money I would just rebuild the 305. But it's still not a 350. And besides like I said I'm gonna go mpi in January any way so there's no point in spending too much on the tbi.

I also know I'll have to get a 307 olds dizzy, but I have a large cap 86 chevy tpi dizzy and I'm gonna take a look at it and see if I can swap the guts into mine. Besides that the only other thing I can think of that I'll really need is an adapter plate for the throttle body.

Street Lethal, you mentioned using my vacuum advance dizzy, would that really run ok? That might be a must for me anyway, because this engine has to have a lot of base timing. But that probably wouldn't matter anyway, because once it's there the ecu won't know and it'll advance and retard as normal.

As for the ebl, it sounds cool, but I want try and fire it with the stock chip first for grins. I just want to see for myself what it will do. I've read a lot of what you guys have said about the poor performance in the stock tunes and I believe you. I read a lot of the chevy thunder web sight, and he had a page with some cam specs and there possibilities of needing a custom chip. Mine is on the upper boarder. I also have a lot milder cam I could use but that wouldn't be any fun would it. If it all works ok and I can make it to January, I have been thinking about using the Accel DFI ecu, but I got a while to research.

One thing I'm wondering about, is what knock sensor should I use
Thanks guys.

 

I'm kinda surprised that anyone even knows about olds anymore. Cool. And that's good to know about the 6200 rpm, Cause this engine can get there quick.
It kinda sucks because I don't have a posi, so I have NO tracktion at all on take off. But that's not really what I care about too much anyway. The fun is on the highway going from like 70-120+ like a rocket. I like the 2.73. There's no problem passing that's for sure.

 

i have a 74 omega with a rocket 350 that ive been wanting to convert to efi. I look forward to seeing your progress

 

It would be fine. You could simply target air/fuel ratio vs. RPM & TPS (Alpha-N), and would essentially be running in Open Loop w/out O2 correction. Or, you can tune for Closed Loop as well. You can do anything you'd like. I know people who are running two entirely separate ECM's, one for fuel, and the other for spark. The vacuum controlled distributor will advance the timing for you based on vacuum, so its going to happen either way you slice it. As for TPI on an Oldsmobile, here's one on a 455 Buick....

 

Cool. Sometimes an olds engine is like the screw up family member. Everyone has one they just don't want anyone to know.

You must have been at this game for a while, because you sure know a lot about it. That 455 with that throttle body adapter is one of the things I was thinking about. I want to use a crosswind efi intake, but it looks like they only make them for 455's. But I think there is a way to use a olds 455 intake on an olds 350 I just can't remember. Thanks for those pictures. I love bop stuff.

 

Just a little history about me and this 350 olds engine. I bought my first car when I was 17 years old. It was a 1979 Olds Regency 98. I got it for $100. Of coarse it didn't run. I worked on the engine for a while and finally got it running. I quickly found out it was really slow. So I researched the engine and found out it was a 260. Someone pulled the 350 out and put that in there. I then bought a used olds 350 and put that in the 98. I rebuilt everything on that car over about two years. One day I was driving down a two lane road in the left lane, a big box truck in front of me slammed on his brakes and I swerved over in the right lane to find a parked car waiting for me. It was a pretty bad wreck and my car was totaled. So I pulled the engine and sent the rest to the junk yard. I carried that engine around with me for a long time. It was just a piece of my youth that I wanted to hang onto. Then one year I had a some extra dough and had it built. I had put it in a 79 cutlass for a while that sat in the garage, but I wasn't happy with the car. So I took it back out and about a year ago I bought my first Camaro. It had a knocking 305. So I put the olds 350 in there. And I loved it. Light car, good handling, and just looks cool. I originally wanted to put it in a 69 or so cutlass, but have became fond of these thirdgen camaros. And it's cool having something different.

Some of the engine Specs
75' Olds 350, has high compression pistons, decent cam, arp main studs, rod bolts, and head bolts, long tube headers, edelbrock performer intake, crane double roller t/c gears. I am using the stock heads and know I have a big bump in power coming when I go aftermarket, but the heads where rebuilt with the engine so at least there fresh. Edelbrock makes a kit for this engine that makes like 412 HP with a milder cam. But I don't have there heads. So I don't know what the trade off is.

 

My cousin Gaspar liked the BOP engines as well. One time, and I was just a kid, he took me to the junkyard looking for a 454 for his '86 Iroc, and wound up buying a 425 Olds engine instead. I wish I had pictures to show you what was done, and I'm kicking myself because I was too young to even know I should have taken some, but he had that sucker so dialed in (carbed) that it wasn't even funny. I remember he ran the blocks ID, and the engine made unbelievable power for what it already was, but he also worked the heads over even more, and went with a much more radical cam. Fastest NA car I was ever in....

 

One of the main reasons the TBI can hit 6200 is because, unlike older distributors, it can pull timing at high rpm. So if you go with a pre-computer dizzy, you're giving up fully 2/3 of the advantage over your current setup. I know Demon carbs can get good mileage, my current 355 has shown 28 mpg with a Demon. I'm playing with a QJ trying to get 29. But the point is, the Demon you have is really good, TBI isn't significantly better without the timing control. Computer controlled timing isn't for mileage or midrange torque, it's for off idle, and extending the rpm range. Now, most Holleys go rich at high rpm, and then the TBI is advantageous. TBI doesn't do that.

 

Hitting 6200-RPM would be completely worthless though without the right camshaft design to make power in that particular RPM band. The TBI ECM doesn't really have any distinct advantage over a vacuum advance distributor, because they too can be dialed in if they really needed to be. With the turn of a simple screw, you can allow for more advance with the same amount of vacuum, or less advance with the same amount of vacuum. Not to mention, not having to deal with false knock situations when roller valvetrains are being used.

 

This is one of my main concerns is the timing and the knock control of the ecu. I don't know how sensitive the system really is, but I thought I read a while back that a loud exhaust could even trigger it. Cause mine is pretty loud. We'll see.

Here's my cam specs.
Clevite Class II Street Performer camshaft for Oldsmobile 307-350-400-403-455. Excellent mid-range power. Operating range 2000-4000 RPM with a fair idle. Cam specs as follows:
Lift 472/496
Adv. duration 280/290
Duration @.050" 214/224
Lobe sep. 107/117
I have always let off around 5500 rpm. It pulls pretty strong to there. I don't really know if it has any left, but even when I shift to second though from there the rear end jerks really hard and the tires break lose with a loud chirp. So if I was gonna even going to try and rev a little higher I think I would feel safer with some stronger axels and a good drive shaft.

 

Got the 305 out of the 91 today. It sure is a pain with those air tubes and the little clearence they gave between the tranny tunnel and tranny. Another inch wouldn't of hurt. Next step will be to get that engine bay cleaned up.

 

With knock sensors, if they're too sensitive you can put more teflon tape on the threads, and not screw them in as tight. Just use safety wire to an oilpan bolt to keep it from vibrating out. As for the dizzy, the precomputer versions cannot let you have less advance at 6200 than you had at 5500. Your engine may like 36 degrees at 5500, but may actually do better with 32 degrees at 6200, and you can't have this without a computer controlling your ignition timing.

 

fast355, told me I can get a knock sensor for a 88 Caddy Fleetwood. So I looked it up online at the local parts store. They had a 5.0 liter engine which I'm going to assume is a olds 307. So I'll probably go with one of those. Thanks for the tip Jamie on the teflon, I'll probably do that too. I'm going to use an electronic dizzy for sure. Does anyone know what to expect with using the 305 chip and injectors for now. Will it at least run ok to get me around?

 

Sorry, but that is absolutely incorrect. The purpose of ignition advance is to keep up with engine speed at a given RPM. If 36 degrees works well at 5500-RPM, then at 6200-RPM, you would NOT want to pull it back to 32 degrees when engine speed has increased. You have it backwards, Jamie, as the distributor would only have a problem keeping up with higher RPM, not over compensating for it....

 

You can use your stock knock sensor off of the LO3, but I would go with one from an LO5, just get an adapter fitting for it if the thread size in the olds' block, or cylinder head, is different. As for running the LO3 305 chip with a 350 olds engine, I would definitely consider heading to the junkyard and getting your hands on an LO5 set of injectors, and chip, instead. Your still going to need to tune it, but the LO5 chip will be much more closer than the LO3 chip in terms of a factory tune....

 

I'll try to get my hands on some 350 injectors and chip then. That's what fast 355 told me also. Yeah I hear people saying you need the right knock sensor for the engine, but when I looked them up before they all pretty much had the same part number at least between the chevy 305 to 350 in 86 to 91 or so. So I'm sure your prabably right street lethal. What is your name anyway I feel stupid saying street lethal everytime I mention you. Ands thanks as always for your input.

 

Also, you might want to modify your stock throttle body the way I did, as well as go with an even larger set of injectors. You can then tune for it with the EBL when your ready down the road. I had this throttle body on my cousin's 454-TBI and it flowed more than enough air for it...;

Edit: My name is Rob....

 

What did you do cut the center section out? How did you make the throttle plate?

 

Yes, I cut the center section out, as well as ported the upper portion of the bores. The throttle plate took a few try's to get right, but you need to use the stock throttle plates as a template. It took much measuring. The plate in the pic was the first attempt....

 

No, my info comes straight from Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop in California. Being able to pull advance at high rpm can extend the useable rpm range. This is because as you rev farther past your HP peak, your cylinder filling is less and less.

 

This too can be improved upon, but is correct. If you use brass fittings between the sensor and the block, you'll further reduce the sensitivity. And even doing this, more tape and less tightness still applies, only twice as well, since you can now tape between the brass and the block, and again between the sensor and the brass.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but I really don't care what Steve Cole is telling you. Depending on the camshaft design, engines will begin to fall in power at a particular RPM level, and this is known as your shift point. It would completely defeat the purpose to stay in it and increase in RPM when its out of your cam's RPM range, especially at WOT. In turbo applications, since you mentioned the turbo shop, your shooting for a particular air fuel ratio at WOT, and your fuel does NOT decrease as RPM's increase, nor does your timing, unless you want a lean condition and/or high EGT's....

 

Atilla's correct, Steve Cole mastered GM TBI V8s long before he became associated with The Turbo Shop. He is the last word on TBI. And running an LO3 to 6200 is far past the LO3's HP peak of 4000 rpm according to GM's rating, and 4800 rpm according to the chassis dyno. My cousin tried revving his LO3 to 6200 just because he read on here that Atilla had done it. Guess what? It will pull 6200 rpm in first gear. And Atilla, the correct spelling is Attila.

 

Steve Cole "mastered" the GM TBI lol? Atilla's correct? First of all, your cousin pulling his TBI to 6200-RPM is complely irrelevant with a stock LO3 cam, because absolutely no power will be made that high with its duration and lift, not to mention being used in conjunction with the stock swirl port heads. It will be an absolute dog. Let me give you a little tip, and maybe Steve Cole could learn from this as well; when you tune your engine on a dyno, once the camshaft peaks at a particular RPM, your shift points will soon follow. Each Block Learn cell in the grid that your tuning that exceeds your shift points is completely irrelevant, whether you add or pull timing is pointless because the engine shouldn't even be seeing that much RPM. If a cam peaks in power at 5500-RPM, there is absolutely no reason to "pull" timing at 6200-RPM because it is pointless to rev the engine that high, unless you happen to enjoy watching the other drivers fly right by you because of your late shifting ability. But for the sake of argument I will entertain such Steve Cole worship. Supply me with proof, and I imply prove with factual proof, that and engine will make more power at a higher RPM, in this case, 6200-RPM, by pulling timing out. Let us remember that an engine will not see such RPM at part throttle, it will only see it at WOT. I want datalogs, and I want dyno sheets, and if possible, I want them to be legit....

 

Man I don't even know who Steve Cole is. lol. But I'm sure he knows more about tbi than me like most do, especially Rob. That stuff don't even matter much, because if I was concerned about revving that high I would not be putting a tbi system on my engine, I would just keep my carb. I want off idle to 4k where I'll be the most. It would be nice to know you could rev to 62k if you wanted, but like I said earlier I don't think I would try it with a stock rear end and u joints anyway. I don't know if anyone looked at my cam or not cause I don't really know where it would pull to. I just know it's good to 55k. Also the performer intake is only rated to 55k.

I drove the 86 today for one last time before I take the engine out and the set up right now is dialed in pretty good. The thing is very fast. And I'll tell you what if that tbi gives me much trouble I will jerk it right off and put my carb back on. But I'm not expecting the tbi to perform as good as the demon, just give me good cold starts, part throttle driving, and may be a little better gas mileage.

So how much power can you put to these trannys, rear ends, and sub frames before you break something? Someone told me before I get a posi I better put subframe connectors in so I won't break the t-tops on a hard launch, is that just bull? Cause right now I don't have any traction at all.

 

Joe, don't worry about knowing too little right now, because by the time this thread has run its course, you'll know everything you need to know about fuel injection. This is the last thing I will say about this right now, then everyone can focus on the actual engine swap. When we tune an engine, there is no magic in tuning particular setups, whether its TPI or TBI. Our goal is to shoot for 128 BLM's (14.7 stoich) across the board. When that is obtained, we again re-tune (fine tune) the engine to compensate for the amount of ethanol in the fuel, spark advance, and for everyday driving. When the tuning is done, we don't base everything on seat of the pants feel, as most will opt to dyno their vehicles afterward to see where everything stands in terms of torque and horsepower. Torque is a given, you cannot turn a prop without making torque, and horsepower is calculated torque. The quality of the tune (air, fuel and spark) will depict its full potential. Once horsepower peaks, and starts to fade, you note the RPM, and that is your shift point. The idea is to keep the engine in its power band, and to rev no greater than where your horsepower peaks. Never make the mistake in thinking that it takes more and more RPM, RPM in excess of your powerband, to run a higher MPH. No, it takes horsepower in relation to final gear ratios, and you want to keep your RPM where its making the most power. I'll use Gary Donavan's turbo car as an example. Note that he could rev the snot out of that engine if he really wanted to, but he keeps it under 6000-RPM for a reason, while speed still continues to escalate. Its all about dialing in the symmetry of the entire vehicle....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmuFhAv8-Ks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXr8LAj_zfU

 

That's cool. The rpm just stayed in the same place almost the entire run.

So Rob, with all your knowledge on this stuff, what's your take on my cam? To get the carb back in the idle circuit I had to drill a 1/16" hole in all the throttle plates. Do you think it'll be ok with this computer stuff? Since I'm going from a roller to flat tappet. When I ordered it the guy told me I needed a 3.73 or better for it to be right which I'll assume partly depends on your vehicle weight and how quick you want to get into the peak power band. But I really like the 2.73. Being between 2nd and 3rd gear around corners and stuff at 3k rpm it pulls strong to 55k. I also have a mild crane that I was thinking would be better for this computer but wouldn't really want to put it in in less I had too. I had it in the engine breifly before the rebuild but didn't really get a chance to run it because I had a cracked piston. I think the previous owner of the engine over revved it. lol. Imagine that. Here's the other cam I have. It doesn't have the lobe spread for some reason on the card.
advertised duration 248/260
@ 50 192/204
lift 427/456
Thanks Rob.

 

Would it be better to get a stock 350 ecm, chip, and injectors from the salvage yard or can I get the guys at pcm for less to send me a piggy back to get me running with the 305 stuff I already have? Or is both a must? Or should I just get the ebl stuff for what I have?

I just don't have a lot of money right now to do it all. So let me know what I have to do to get it to run decent for now. Xmas around the corner so I have to be conservative. After xmas I'll have some more money to get things done right.

And if I do get the 350 ecm, which number do I need? I looked up the local salvage yards and the tbi 350 trucks are plentiful. Anything I need to watch out for? I just don't want to get one for an electronic tranny without vats or something like that and have a big headache.

Thanks.

Rob?

 

It will be less of a bear to tune with fuel injection, so you can honestly go with whatever camshaft you prefer. Remember that TBI is essentially a speed density setup, so there is no MAF sensor there to help compensate for the increase in camshaft duration. IMO, you can, initially, have someone burn you a chip based on your engine's specifications, just to get you going. Definitely invest in a set of better injectors. From there, it would either be a matter of burning chip after chip until you get your engine dialed in, or simply go with EBL Flash, and tune the engine on the fly....

Pre-89 chips are w/out VATS (IIRC, only GTA's got VATS in '88, but then again they didn't come with TBI). Get your hands on any set of injectors from any 350 TBI setup that you can find, but grab an earlier 350 TBI prom w/out VATS programmed into it, if you can. Remember though, the LO5 chip won't be the answer to your tune, it will just be closer in terms of what you need compared to the stock LO3 chip. If you can't find the LO5 chip that you need, have a chip burned based on your engine's specs just to get you going....

Edit: Is the engine installed yet....?

 

No I haven't got it in yet. I've almost got it out of the 86. So can I use the 305 chip I have and get pcm for less to burn me a piggy back that will get me going? Or do I need the 350 chip too?

 

As long as the engine is getting the right fuel requirements, you can use any chip you like that works. The TBI system doesn't care what engine it is running, as processors simply do what they are told to do. It's basically like this; w/out any modification to the ECM, you can't use the stock LO3 chip and expect it to run right, but you can try the LO5 chip just to see if she'll hold an idle and run. Either way though your going to need to tune the engine w/that cam. I wouldn't bother getting a piggy back because its a waste, as you can either get a chip burned for around $80 dollars to your exact specs, or you could go the EBL Flash route and never have to worry about burning chips again. Being that your new to tuning, IMO, I would first decide on the cam that your sure you want to go with, get a new chip burned for that particular setup, drive the car and call it a day. Doing this will only cost you the chip burn, as the injectors you can get at the junkyard for practically nothing. Later on, once you get a feel for tuning, then I would go with the EBL Flash....

 

I misunderstood your question. Yes, if you feel comfortable with pcmforless burning you a piggyback chip, then go for it. When you said piggyback I thought you were referring to something entirely different....

 

i got an olds 350 rocket that i was thinkin of replaceing my 305 with it, but it wouldnt work cause i have the t5 behind mine and cause oldsmobile has starters on the drivers side. Probably gonna have to re use the trans on the olds if you want to use it

 

I've just seen a lot of post in here saying the pcmforless is a good place but I don't really have a clue. And yeah I'm kinda nervous about jumping into the burning stuff or even the ebl but I probably shouldn't be. What do you use, or what would you recommend out of the options? Thanks Rob, I guess I would be talking to myself if you weren't here.

 

.

 

You could adapt your T5 w/the BOP bell housing, it would just require an adapter plate. I wouldn't recommend it though, because it would only be just a matter of time before it succumbs to the torque of the Oldsmobile engine. Go with a Turbo 350, as they are cheap enough nowadays, and are proven. It's fun rowing the gears on a manual, but nothing beats a stalled automatic w/manual valve body though, IMO....

 

On my third gen's, the GTA is running the stock '730 ECM but w/$59 code, the TTA is running the stock '7148 w/stock prom, and the Camaro has a halfway installed Megasquirt-II. In my honest opinion, I think you should have a chip burned to your specs so that you can enjoy the car. In the interim though, read up on how to tune your engine using the right software. I know this website very well, and a lot of guys are waiting for you to install the engine and get the harness hooked up before they join in. Many people in the past will start their engine swaps, then never finish them, which is why a lot of members now wait until they know for sure its going to get done before subscribing....

 

With that being said, I'll probably go with a pcmforless piggyback chip. I got it ready to come out. I just have to wait until tomorrow morning to pull it, I ran out of time.

 

You know whats funny is the olds engine fits better than the chevy. I'm using a $40 adapter plate to mount on the 700r4, and g-body headers. Also just so you know I had a turbo 350 for two weeks before it blew up on my engine. It was pretty pepe until then. I had a turbo 400 on it before that and ended up putting that back in until I got the 86 camaro. Then the 700 strated to slip so I put a shift kit in it and it's like better than new now. I wouldn't ever go back to the 400 now that I know the difference. It sucked up a lot of power. The only problem I have with this set up is if I have to take the starter out, I have to just about pull the engine. I have to pull off the header to get off the starter, but can't get the header of unless I pull the engine. And I'm not going back to stock manifolds, I got a big power increase with the long tube headers.

 

.... were you able to get the 350 in today Joe? Recently installed a 355 w/TPI in my '86 V6 Camaro, and I spent the day finalizing the MS-II wiring. A few friends came over to lend me a hand and we were talking about your project. Remember to give pcmforless every single detail, including gears and the vehicle's weight, as that will help in approximating the vehicles trap speed, and will help them w/fueling needs. Would love to see some video if you could, even if its cell phone video, when you first attempt to start the vehicle.

 

I got the 350 out of the 86 and put it in and out of the 91 a few times mocking up my engine mounts. I did a few things different this time around. It's always better the second time around. In the 86 I had the engine mounts in the far front position on the block. This time I moved them to the center like in a g-body. It takes a little time because I have to lay the headers in place on the crossmember, lower the engine in, mount up the tranny, bolt on the headers, then lower the engine onto the crossmember, check for clearence everywhere, reroute the brake lines, mark out the engine pads on the crossmember, take it all back out and drill the new holes on the crossmember, and bolt on the engine pads to the crossmember. And after all that I get to put it all back in again. It's really not that bad.



I ordered the tbi adapter and o2 bung from jegs early this morning. So hopefully I get it soon. I love jegs. I almost consider it a bible. I have a catalog in every bathroom. Anyway I should have it in tomorrow. I have to replace the oil pan gasket and I'm going to paint the engine black. The grey was just a base coat that I never covered. I was going to touch up the paint in the engine bay but some idiot that had the car before me removed the paint code from the door jam. So I don't know what color to use. Does anyone know how else to find the code without the tag?

Rob, are you posting your progress somewhere on yours. If so give me a link. I'll try to get some video of the start too when I get to that point. Yeah I'm really excited. I have always wanted efi on this engine. Mainly because I want it to last a long time and I know an efi set up can give you a lot more mileage than a carb. That's why I have babied it since the rebuild seven years ago. It might have 10k on it. Something else I was happy to see was the plugs I put in a long time ago look like their a week old. So I had it tuned pretty good.

 

I'm trying to get the chevy serpentine set up to work on my olds engine. We'll see how it works out. I found out that pcmforless doesn't do tbi chips. Bummer, because they were the cheapest route I new of. The only other place I know of is tbichips.com. If anybody has any feed back on them please let me know. I might end up just buying the stuff and trying to burn my own chip. I'm really skeptical about using the cam I have in the engine right now. I keep looking at a lot of recommended cams for tbi and all I ever see are ones quite a bit milder than mine. Oh well if it doesn't work I'll just put my other one in. It's pretty close to the recommended specs for a tbi.

 

Well I can make the serpentine set up kinda work. Problem is the way I want it to go will spin my water pump the wrong way. I can route the belt another way by putting a ribbed pulley on the water pump, if I weld the smog pump pulley (with ribbs) on the housing from the water pump pulley so they line up right.But I'm gonna just put my regular stuff on for now. I got enough left to do.

 

Yeah, I would wait on the serpentine setup, just until you get the engine fired up and idling properly. Pretty sure Brian over @ TBIChips.com can burn you something pretty close just to get you up and running, but I would definitely reach out to Bob over at DynamicEFI whenever you get the chance (his userID is RBob over here). K-member looks great, did you paint the engine yet? Rustoleum makes a sweet apple red metallic that would look awesome on that engine....;

 

No I haven't painted the engine yet, I was messing with that serpentine stuff for a while. I had it all good until I looked at it and thought "shi*" I can't spin the water pump backwards
I was trying to figure out a good color to two tone with it. I think I'm gonna go get a can of that color you recomended tomorrow.