self explanitory

------------------
89 IROC-Z 5.7L
bone stock for now...

 

and how would i needto prep the chassis?

 

Someone reply to this ? I'm doing the same thing

 

You prep the chassis by putting in subframe connectors and poly bushings, like those from Spohn above. Where you go from there depends upon how wild you go with the engine, or what exactly you plan on doing with the finished product.

The rest of the question is too open-ended to answer intelligently. It depends upon how much of a 383 you get (piston type, head type, induction type, etc.) and how complete it is (short or long block, externally balanced balancer & flywheel/flexplate, starter, etc.), what all you do to it (exhaust, induction, cam upgrades, for instance), how much you do yourself vs. have done, whether you're talking about a competent shop or some Tom, **** , or Harry, how much labor is in your area, etc., etc., etc.

To get in the ballpark, get a price on an engine from a place like PAW, then double it. It'll probably still be more, but at least you'll have some idea.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).