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puting a lt1 in a 92 z28?

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Old Sep 19, 2001 | 04:46 PM
  #1  
RUNUDWN99T/A's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: hueytown al,usa
puting a lt1 in a 92 z28?

iam a auto tech so i think i can do this.just need any tips on any mods to body or frame or any thing that might be helpfull.it is a 93 modle motor.we will be keep the 700r4 trans with this change.thanks you for any help.i have read some on this so i know somethings that need to be changed.but please let me know what things that you had to do or know to do.
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Old Sep 19, 2001 | 05:31 PM
  #2  
TexasLT1's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,819
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From: Angleton, TX
Car: '92 RS
you have to notch the crossmember on the pass. side to make room for the a/c compressor. the mounts must be swapped around, and you have to use one of the new ones and one of the old, not sure which ones. wiring harness was a major PITA with VATS, but not impossible. custom p/s, a/c, and fuel lines. its not that hard, but its not a straight drop in either. good luck and take your time

------------------
-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil
-MSD 6-AL Ignition
Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra

Losses
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)
-'96(?) Turbo Eclipse (d*mn good race, heavily modified)
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Old Sep 20, 2001 | 03:29 AM
  #3  
Bawls's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 326
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
I'm looking to do the same, ive had my stock 1987 z28 long enough.. time to push her a little harder.
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Old Sep 20, 2001 | 12:33 PM
  #4  
mat89RS's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 884
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From: Québec
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
I've done the exact same swap with a 93 lt1, I had many problems fabricating my power sterring lines and fuel lines, it was leaking all the time , I found some swedge lock fitting, it solved the problem, I had to get a 4th gen radiator to cool that beast but you can keep the old stock rad. Like texas said wiring is a real pita but I got something for you:

VATS 16 pin
|------------------------|
A8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| A1
B8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| B1
|------------------------|

Slot Wire Color Description
A1 Orn Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
A2 Pnk Power feed from ECM IGN fuse #5
A3 DK BLU Fuel enable signal
A4 YEL/BLK Starter enable relay control
A5 GRY "Security" indicator lamp control
B5 BLK/WHT Ground
B7 PPL/WHT Ignition key resistor return
B8 WHT/BLK Ignition key resistor feed

| | Top White 10 pin
|K|J|H|G|F|
|A|B|C|D|E|

K is DK GRN and is the coolant temperature feed to instrument cluster.
J is DK GRN/WHT and is fuel pump replay control
H is empty.
G is DK GRN/WHT and is vehicle speed signal.
F is GRY and is fuel pump motor feed.
A is RED and is Alternator feed to instrument cluster.
B is TAN and is oil pressure feed to instrument cluster.
C is BRN and is oil level feed to instrument cluster.
D is empty.
E is empty or if you have a manuel tranny it is the clutch anticipate signal and is GRY.

| | Top Blue 10 pin
|K|J|H|G|F|
|A|B|C|D|E|

K is TAN/BLK and is (Automatic) torque converter clutch control.
J is ORN/BLK and is (Automatic) park/neutral feed from transmission position switch.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the wire would be LT GRN and would be (manuel) backup lamp feed.
H is LT BLU/BLK and is (Automatic) TCC switched power feed.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the would be be BRN and be (manuel) power from turn B/U fuse # 2 to backup switch and would be brown.
G is PNK and power feed from ECM IGN fuse # 5
F is DK GRN/WHT and is A/C request signal
E is DK BLU and is theft deterrent - fuel enable feed.
D is WHT and is techometer signal to instrument cluster.
C is WHT/BLK and is diagnostic request signal.
B is service engine soon indicator feed.
A is empty.

Black Connector 4 pin
|A|B|C|D|
A is PPL and is ignition (crank starter)
B is BLK/WHT Ground
C is ORN Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
D is Empty

C100. It connected (on the 93) to the underhood fuse block.
|A|B|C|D|E|
|K|J|H|G|F|
| |
A is PNK and is power feed from injector fuse 9
B is DK GRN/WHT and is A/C compressor relay control
C is DK GRN and is A/C compressor clutch solenoid feed
D is TAN and is serial data signal.
E is BRN and is Air Pump Replay Control.
F is BRN and is power feed from FANS/SOLs Fuse 6
G is PNK and is power feed from ignition fuse 11
H is DK BLU and is secondary coolant fan relay control
J is DK and is primary fan replay control.
K is PNK and is power feed from injector fuse 10.


By Mathieu @ mathieuco@hotmail.com, e-mail me for questions

------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40
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Old Sep 21, 2001 | 08:51 AM
  #5  
RUNUDWN99T/A's Avatar
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From: hueytown al,usa
on the mounts i was thinking that i would use the old mounts off the 305. if thats not the right way witch mount do i use from the lt1 and from the 305?i know that in some of the reading that ive done it gives a part number for the right side of the motor.called the dealer and they said the part number that i gave them from the hgsalavge swap.that the stock one from the 305 would work.please let me know more.we took the motor out last night.this is my buddys daily driver.we must have this done in a 2 weak time frame(he is using vacation time).i have been looking at pic of other installs and dont see the pcm.where are you people puting them at?

[This message has been edited by RUNUDWN99T/A (edited September 21, 2001).]
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Old Sep 21, 2001 | 04:23 PM
  #6  
mat89RS's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 884
Likes: 2
From: Québec
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
you can use the stock 305 motor mount, that's what I did, A little welding here and there, it should be fine...
for motor mount pictures go to:
www.hpsalvage.com --> swap tips and you will see [picutre about the cross member and about the motor mount

I did the swap in 8 days. average of 12 hours a day !!!and i was alone, I removed ethe drivetrain completly. By the way i'm 19... if you guys are 2 and you do know what you are doing it's doable in a week for sure ....all you need is some junk lying around to be able to work with any situations. My dad has like 2 cars is part in the garage, and 1 cube van full of scrap metal it was farely easy to find the parts I needed parts.

If I were you, i would go to GM dealer today & buy a 93 trottle cable , it took me 4 days to get one witch got me late in my project.

If you need picutes of anything , ask me ...my firend has a digital cam.

Just for your information the starter enable relay is located in the driver side kick panel and it's hidden in a rubber compound sticky sh*t. when you'll do your electronic you'll need to rewire that relay with your ECM


links:
http://www.angelfire.com/tx/brune/swap.html
http://www.350.streetracing.org/
http://www.geocities.com/vtcamaro/WireDiagrams.html


------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40
Reply
Old Sep 21, 2001 | 04:34 PM
  #7  
mat89RS's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 884
Likes: 2
From: Québec
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
I installed my PCM just above the heater motor with a little homemade retaining clip
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