Oil pan leak?????
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 406
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From: Newark,NJ The state where racing on I 78 rules.
Oil pan leak?????
I have a question about a rear oil main leak? I've been at this for months, trying to get a smaller diameter rear main oil seal for my friends car. No company that i know of makes this dang thang! The seal ,when installed barely touches the crank with any pressure. The other day, I was out messing around with the fit of another seal (high vacumn & high pressure type) With the tranny removed from the car I could see clearly that there is a hair line gap all the way around the outer lip of the seal. Ive thought about putting maybe some small zip ties under the seal to close up the gap. If anyone have a better idea of getting a rear main oil seal to get a more snug feel on the crank please let me know.
The motor is a 383 roller block with the adapter for a two piece crank installed.
njdaewoo
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86 Tramaro 90% Trans Am/ 10% IROC/Z (nose, hood,& fenders)
Trans Am Mods as of 1/10/01
3inch
T.E.S/Flowmaster setup,gutted cat,gutted maf,relocated mat,373 gears,upgraded factory chip,255 lph walpro f/pump & throttle body coolant bypass
njdaewoo@excite.com
New mods as of 6/10/01:
383sb engine
Comp Cam Xteme XR264hr-12
smog pump by-pass
The motor is a 383 roller block with the adapter for a two piece crank installed.
njdaewoo
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86 Tramaro 90% Trans Am/ 10% IROC/Z (nose, hood,& fenders)
Trans Am Mods as of 1/10/01
3inch
T.E.S/Flowmaster setup,gutted cat,gutted maf,relocated mat,373 gears,upgraded factory chip,255 lph walpro f/pump & throttle body coolant bypass
njdaewoo@excite.com
New mods as of 6/10/01:
383sb engine
Comp Cam Xteme XR264hr-12
smog pump by-pass
1 piece seal right? it should be a tight fit, make sure you have the right part. oil builds up behind the seal in the vee and forces the seal aginst the shaft so i guess it may not fit 100% tight, but all of them i ever saw did.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Wait a minute, if you have a 2-piece crank in a 1-piece block with a 2-piece adapter, don't you need a 2-piece seal?
Or am I just confused again?
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Or am I just confused again?
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 2
From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
5.7 is right. Are you using the correct seal?
Just an idea.
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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires
Just an idea.
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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
From: Newark,NJ The state where racing on I 78 rules.
Yeah, its a 2 piece seal. The block is the newer style roller block 87-92 tpi. I used the GM adapter so that I could install the 2 piece 400 crank in the block. As I said before, when everthing's installed I can see a very small space between the seal & the crank ( its about the size of a hair) When i start his car the oil just drips out like there is no seal. Does anyone know of a company or person that has had this problem before and what their remedy was?
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Posts: n/a
I suspect the crank has been cut a whole bunch where the seal rides causing that problem. Have you tried Fel-Pro or Pioneer to see if they make an oversize seal? I suspect one of them does.
Actually I just looked and cant find one. Maybe the adapter was cut wrong and the inner diameter where the seal rides is too big.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited October 11, 2001).]
Actually I just looked and cant find one. Maybe the adapter was cut wrong and the inner diameter where the seal rides is too big.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited October 11, 2001).]
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 406
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From: Newark,NJ The state where racing on I 78 rules.
I have found the solution for the problem! I bought the oversized, line bored 400 seal a while ago. Thinking this would solve all my problems, I installed the seal into the adapter plate and It stuck out of the seal about a quarter of in inch. After being disappointed about spending $30 bucks for this seal I was pissed! What I did was grind some of the seal down with a grinding wheel. When I got close to my target. I used a fine piece of sand paper for the finishing touches. Remember this, "a small piece of the seal has to stick up from the cap to provide the proper crush on the 2 halves". I put everthing together & I finally had no more rear oil seal leaks on my friends car. U can call this procedure that i fabbed up (JURY RIGGIN AT ITS BEST)
njdaewoo
njdaewoo
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