So i'm getting my motor torn down and with it being .030 over already and flat tops, the first thing that comes to mind is 383. The motor as it sits, is free to me and i think the vortec heads will be free, or cheep so i dont have much money in it, so it wouldnt break me to do it.
I'm just wondering what yall's opinons are as to if i should. The motors going to be mainly street with some strip possibilites on the weekends, mainly my toy. I'm almost 18 and staying home for the next 2 years of school, so i've got the time but i'd like to have it in by graduation, May 21st so i better get the ball rolling. I've located some motor mounts, no price yet, so once i get those, i'll start locating the rest.

Theres no real reason not to go 383 so i figure why not. I can get an eagle crank on ebay for like 183 new with the 350 mains. If i ask my guy thats building the motor with me i can get most whatever i want cheeep. like a set off bearings at 20-30 bucks and gaskets barely 45. Its nice having a connection and trusted long time customer.

Just wondering now if i should get a whole roatating assembly or use my rods [unsure if they're aftermarket or not yet. find out tommorrow]. I'm not so familiar with the actual doing it as i am with the mechanical and physical aspect of it.. just knowing that a 400 crank bumps the stroke to 3.75 and the mains have to be ground if its a stock crank. Also that it needs a 400 flywheel and externally ballanced. not sure on much more, so yall fill me in along with your opinion on the whole build.

Thanks,
-Scott

 

if youre gunna use your old stuff, have it sonic tested. you may need to get a whole new rotating assembly depending on how much hp you plan on building it to. summit has complete ones balanced with flexplates and balancers. Id definately go for the 383! the more cubes you have, the more power. the 383 is a stout little motor. if this is your first time build, i suggest getting a how to book. i recommend "How to build max hp chevy small blocks on a budget" by David Vizard. lotta good tips in that. have fun!

 

Well it is my first motor build, but its my builders about 10,000th.. hes gota couple drag championships under his belt. the builds free for the learning exerience.. Give a man a motor, build him a car. Teach a man to build a motor, builds him lots of cars..

But i'll consider the book. and i'll check out my rods tommorrow and see what i've got.

 

No reason not to... GO FOR IT!

 

Stock rods are fine for a mild to moderate build.

Nobody uses stock 400 cranks anymore, new and better quality cast 383 cranks can be had for about the price of grinding down the journals on a 400.

Not if it's built to be internally balanced, which can be done.


If you've got to replace the rotating assembly anyway, then a 383 costs the same as a 350 so you might as well do it.

 

well i may can still use the stock crank, we dunno yet. thats to be determined this week. And yeah, with the price of the crank its hard not to..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EAGLE...Q5fAccessories
that ones externally balanced.. the internally balanced are about 50 bucks more..

 

I voted "no" and the reason why is that I would be hesitant to invest money and time into an engine block that has already been bored over 0.030" once before. Over sizing the cylinder bore again is a risky play. I would find a different engine block that has never been touched.

 

.030" is nothing. At .060" i'd start to worry.

 

well i'm not gonna be re-popping the block.. its already bored over so i'm gonna use the pistons and stuff i've got in it.

 

You have to change the pistons or the rods along with the crank to build a 383.

 

and why?

 

You're adding .27" of stroke. That means the crank pin is going to be .135" further up the cylinder at the top of the stroke, which means the rod and piston are also going to be that much further up, and the piston is going to be sticking out of the block. You either have to use a .135" shorter rod (like a stock 400 rod) or use a piston with a .135" higher wrist pin, so that the face of the piston is still at the same height after changing the stroke.

 

well i dont think the block is decked, so is there a possibilty to have the room left?

If it does require a new set of rods, i'll just leave it at 355

 

No possibility whatsoever.

 

well then, i guess that scratches the 383 idea unless i can get some 400 rods cheep...

 

How cheap do you want them? You can find a set of 8 reconditioned rods with ARP bolts for under $150, or a set of used rods of unknown condition for much less. Count on having the whole thing balanced if you do decide to put in a new rotating assembly.

 

well considering i didnt wanna put but about 200 in the crank,, i guess with rods i could go to about 300, but i'd have to find it seperately or at a decent price.. i'll be in the shop today, so i'll ask what we can get the rods and crank for..

 

Not to be a ****,but if your THAT concerned about cost,this may not be the hobby you want.As a general rule,take what you think it should cost,add what more experianced folks say it should cost,and add 20%.Don't be upset if it costs more than that,because it often does.

 

Are you coming up with this 383 idea on your own or did your engine builder say it could be done with the stock rods and pistons?

 

Add about $300 for balancing too.

If you weren't going to replace the rotating assembly, then a 383 doesn't make sense.

 

I usually find that everything costs double by the time it's all done. But you can't factor that into your estimates, because as soon as you do, it'll cost double that amount.

 

Well taking it into consideration, i asked around today..

Didnt talk to my builder about it yet, but two of my buddies thats also got stuff there and race, they both said 383 is a good idea, and i can buy one of thier 383 sets, pistons, rods, bearings and steel crank for 650.

Talked to my best friends dad who used to race and he said every 383 he's seen is crap. He raced a 350 down to 6 seconds or less in the 1/8th. He was giving me some tips. He's my other dad and has money, so i may be spending some time at his house with the camaro. Hes built his own stuff all his life and knows a few tricks about the individual car and some other stuff as being a run what you brung kinda guy. he still does stuff the old fashioned way, and dosent act like he has money.


Anywho, his opinion is weighted more than josh and brandons, but the main kicker will be joel's[builder] and what he thinks. i belive he'll say stick with the 355.

 

I'd put money down that every last 383 he's seen was an old school turned cast stock 400 crank with a set of stock 400 rods. He's behind the times, the aftermarket has given us many wonderful things in the past 30 years since he was current.