350 to 383, is the 383 stroker reliable?
#1
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350 to 383, is the 383 stroker reliable?
I was thinking of going with the 383 stroker in my 89 formula. Is the stroker a very reliable setup to run. I hear of bottoms blowing out and tops not being strong enough is this true? The car will be a summer driver not daily though maybe 2-3 times a week, occassional drag strip races. But I would love to have that kind of power on the road, lol. Please help is the 383 a very reliable engine to run I dont want to be bombed with problems.
thanks
asa
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89 Formula 350 "SUCKIN GAS AND HAULIN *** !"
thanks
asa
------------------
89 Formula 350 "SUCKIN GAS AND HAULIN *** !"
#2
Any motor is only as reliable as the guy that built it. Any car is only reliable as the sum of all of the systems in it. And nothing is reliable if you don't know how to drive it.
Basically guys have been building 383's forever. If it's built right, it will be fine mechanically. But as far reliability, that's up to all of the systems around it. If you are keeping the fuel injection, but don't mod it correctly, it won't run right. If you don't mod the cooling system correctly, it won't run right, etc. etc.
Basically guys have been building 383's forever. If it's built right, it will be fine mechanically. But as far reliability, that's up to all of the systems around it. If you are keeping the fuel injection, but don't mod it correctly, it won't run right. If you don't mod the cooling system correctly, it won't run right, etc. etc.
#3
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 385ci LT1 cnc ported heads big cam
Transmission: 4L60E automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Zexel posi 7.5" rear
I have had similar questions but never asked. We all want 400hp+ engines that get 30mpg and will last 150k miles. As far as reliability will the 383 hold up over time like a 350 since you have to shave material off the rods and block for clearance.
I mean 400hp is no good for a daily driver if it only lasts 30k miles under normal use.
I mean 400hp is no good for a daily driver if it only lasts 30k miles under normal use.
#4
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Car: Yes
Engine: Many
Transmission: Quite a few
Most of the clearancing for a 400 crankshaft occurs in places that do not adversely affect the strength of the components. The block needs minor clearancing, and in doin so, may actually improve the strength, as you need to take a sharp edge down(grind it out of the way, and releive some stress at that sharp point) As for the rods and rod bolts, the clearancing is minor, especially if the right aftermarket rod bolts are used, it's almost like a light grinding and polishing needed on one side of the rod/bolt. The killer for durablity of the 383, which is actually accurate for ANY engine is in the balancing. Since the 383 was never a factory engine, it has it's own balance characteristics, and should always be spun balanced as a complete rotating assembly, and a fluiddampr or equivalent should be used.(and the proper flywheel). This ensures that the crankshaft is not subject to damaging harmonics.
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