I am going to built a 427 powered 3rd gen in a couple of months. Right now I am in the planning stages. Here's what I came up with for a motor:
Block-chevy cast
Heads-edelbrock preformer rmp 2.19 /1.88
int/ex aluminum
Cam-solid lift 294/294 int/ex 110 lobe sep
Rocker arms-aluminum 1.7
pistons-Kieth black silv-o-lite
connecting rods- Manley aluminum
Intake-Wiend stealth
Carb-Holley 4150 mech sec amd man choke

Bore is 4.25 Stroke 3.76
I would like to make power from 1500 - 7500 if possible. Any thoughts on this combo

 

what you going to do with it? aluminum rods aren't any good for anythig but short trips, usually a 1/4 mile at a time. i think you have a typo on your cam specs and if you don't you need way more lift. if it is a drag engine i'd use a single plane intake and dart or brodex heads.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

That cam is vintage technology, look into the Comp cams Xtreme Energy line for a more modern design. Either way a cam that big won't make alot of power before 2200-2500 rpm.

Those rockers won't fit under standard valve covers and alot of people are having problems with tall covers hitting the wiper motor.

 

I think he is refering to a Comp Cams Magnum 294s. The alumium rods are a mistake
for this motor and cost way too much.
They offer no durability or performance benefit on this motor either.
A good balanced rotating assembly does.
Good GM steel rods with ARP bolts are more than enough rod for a 6000 rpm BB.
An equivelent Hydraulic like the 292H will give equal performance *in this motor* and
doesn't need the perodic valve lash adjustment. BB's love valve lift. Ya never have too much valve lift in a BB.
A better cam would be the Comp Cams Extreme
Energy XE284H-10 Hydraulic, specs are 240/246 @.050 .574"/.578" on 110. This cam has the same power range as the others but the extra lift and dual pattern grind will improve top end power on a motor like this.
The price will be the same.
I would make that 4150 holley a 850 cfm 4150 holley. BB's like 850's.
a 10:1 compression ratio will make this motor street gas friendly and make lots of power. Should make 540 to 560 hp. and go like hell. This engine will not need to be reved to 7500 rpm. But will G.L.H. if you shift it around 6200 rpm. If you want to rev and engine 7500 rpm build a 302 small block.

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 10, 2001).]

 

I'm inclined to agree with F-Bird 88,If you're gonna run this on the street, you don't want aluminum rods.Big blocks love big cams. My big block (not in a third gen) has a .601"/.588" lift Ultradyne with 108 degree L/C.Real choppy idle, runs real hard to 6000+.The weiand Stealth is a good street-strip intake,has low end of dual plane and screams up top like a single plane.Holley 800-850 CFM carb, 850 best, due to 4-corner idle adj.,Roller rockers,2-1/8"-2-1/4" primary headers,I'd get forged pistons instead of the KB's.This combo should spank most any other thirdgen and put out over 500HP on pump gas.
-Rich-

 

I am no expert at BBC's, but on SBC, aluminum rods will work just fine on the street. The stress on these rods that causes them to break is excessive RPM. A street engine generally does not see real high RPM. A lot of magazines have done articles on aluminum rodded engines, and have concluded they can last over 100,000 miles when not driven to extreme conditions. On the other hand, they are made for lightweight, high winding engines. These engines do not typicaly see regular street duty, therefore, the rods can be inspected for cracks, or stretching more frequently. Knowing this, I don't think I would use these unless I wanted a screaming engine. The weight savings over steel, would not be worth it to me.



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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires