So i am going to swap a 540 into my 88' rs. My very first question is to decide on what k-member to run. I am going to get ed quay headers 2-1/8". should i get one of their modified k-members or a tubular type? this will be a street strip deal, but this motor will be more wild then mild.

Here is my basic setup:

dart big m, 9.8 deck
TKO 600
Brodix rectangular port heads


I have read about rumors that the tubular k-member will crack with public street driving, but other says its just fine. this is not a dedicated race car, but i would like to be able to run those big headers as well and a decent oil pan.


Also, has anyone used the eq-quay motor mounts for the "ed quay location". i know they sell the headers for "stock" and "ed quay" locations. which do you think would be best? I really don't care about hood clearance because i am going to run a 4500 super victor or a large brodix single plane with a dominator.

Has anyone used solid motor mounts and tranny mounts on the street? i would like to keep this 540 buttoned down really good.

help appreciated!

will have motor build-up pics in the next few months.

Josh

 

Putting in a short deck 540 is no different than putting in a 454. All the same rules apply. See the sticky at the top of the forum.

I ran a stock crossmember for years with a 454ish. When I built the 540, I picked up some 2-1/4" Ed Quay headers. Fitment was tight so I finally installed a Profab k-member but it didn't really give me the clearance I expected. The header tubes are huge and the raised port heads just complicate header installation. I dented a few tubes to clear some suspension parts. I was running Canfield 310 heads and they performed well enough but the engine was running out of air at 7400 rpm. I now have some fully ported Dart 360 heads and the engine wants to go higher. I need to do a cam swap to get the full potential from these bigger heads.

My engine is sitting on front and rear motor plates. I have it dropped down as low as it can go. To pull the oil pan off, I need to drop the steering center link which has already been flipped over (don't do this if driven on the street as it screws up the Ackerman angles). I use a typical Chevelle style 7 quart oil pan.

You don't run a solid tranny mount ever! A good poly mount is much better. When using motor plates even if it's just a front plate, you use engine stabilizers to keep the engine from moving forward and backward.

If the engine gets built to the way you want it, say goodbye to that 10 bolt.

 

Would solid motor mounts on the street be a pain? I would like to get the ed-quay motor mounts and matching headers. I plan on running brodix bb-2 xtra's which have raised exhaust ports. I believe the 2-1/8" tubes have 3.5" collectors. i still need a full exhaust so i don't want to go TOO crazy on the headers.

what is the main interference issues when running the eq-quay headers with the stock k-member? If i need to do a little grinding then no biggie, but i really want to run a 8" deep oil pan. I guess i don't want motor plates, but i don't want to mount the engine to low in order to have good ground clearance (relatively). I know that a dual 3" setup is close enough to the ground. but i think i will be able to manage 3.5" dual exhuast.

i have read just about every stick and forum on bbc swaps, but everyone does things a little different.

 

on a different subject... i need to know what kind of scattershield to get with a TKO 600. i am trying to keep everything SFI approved so that i have no problems at the track. I am open to using mechanical or hydraulic clutches. Is there a scattershield that you can use either one? Specific TKO scattershields?

 

The crossmember isn't a big problem. It's the control arms that are in the way including my tubular ones. Using the factory crossmember can be done but it will take more than just grinding. You'll need to cut, notch and plate areas for clearance.

Solid motor mounts will work fine. How low you mount the engine depends on what you want to do. I run dual 4" exhaust pipes off the collectors and have mufflers mounted under the rockers. Ground clearance is tight but I still have no problems getting on and off the trailer. If I have the engine sitting much higher, the collectors get pushed against the floor. I also have the engine sitting back about 1" from the factory location. The headers between the frame rails prevent it from going back any more. I'd love to move it back about another 6".

I have no idea what kind of SFI bellhousings will work. I run an automatic. Banging gears might be fun on the street but it sucks on the dragstrip unless you're using a planetary system like a Lenco.

 

I know that automatics are best for drag racing, but this will be mostly street driven, mainly interstate highway driving. I also prefer manuals anyways.

So i guess i will get the eq quay mounts - they are lower than stock. Solid motor mounts, poly tranny mount, possibly tubular k-member and control arms - sound like a deal!

I would assume you wound recommend a ford 9" to replace my 10 bolt... Well i found i direct bolt-in moser 9" on craigslist for $1750! so i am trying to save up to get that.

 

There are 3 good direct bolt in diffs. A 9", 12 bolt or Dana 60.

You can switch out to a 9" fairly inexpensively. Buy the housing package with 31 spline axles. The bolt in housing will allow you to use your current brake system. Pick up a used center section for 31 splines from the junkyard. If you're lucky, you might find one with a good gear ratio and a posi then pop it into the housing. I was able to find a 4.10 posi out of an old Bronco for $100. The housing/axle package is around $1000.

As things progress, you can always upgrade the gear ratio or install a better posi at a later date but it would be a cheaper way to put a better diff under the car.

The factory 9" case isn't indestructible. They start to fail when you get into the low 10 to mid 9 second range. The pilot bearing support can break which will spit the pinion out the side of the case. I caught mine when it was just cracked. I put in another factory case to finish off the season then upgraded to a Moser aluminum bolt through case.



My 540

 

Well the one i found has 35 spline axles, a detroit locker, and 4.11:1 gears. It is a complete moser package, i just need to find out a little more info, but it sounds exactly like what i am looking for.

BTW, that is a nice looking engine. Did you have to get rid of the brake booster, or was it a choice. i am thinking i will get a hydroboost system, but im not sure yet.

Is that a accumulator you have on the drivers side?

Since you have the motor so far back, do you use a small cap type of distributor? i read in the bbc swap the you need to clearance the firewall for normal HEI dizzies using factory motor mounts.

Also, what would be your recommendation on an electric water pump? i would like to get one for three reasons: (1) no cavitation at high rpm (2) constant flow at idle and low rpms (3) to have the simplist engine bay possible, i will get a march sepentine set-up with P/S and Alternator only.

 

Well i got that 9" on craigslist, and what a steal! It isn't a moser, but i believe it has a strage center section, and is the "big bearing" version. 35 splines, 1/2 wheel studs, detroit locker. woo hoo!

now i need a driveshaft and a clutch to support the rest of my driveline. I also need some input on a torque arm, and some suspension mods. the guy i got this from was making 553whp and bent the stock torque arm. Spohn? BMR?