How much horsepower can a 700r4 take?

 

depends what it consists.

my stage 2 700r4 is good up til 450rwhp.

stock one isnt going to hold up well to anything

 

well I'm shooting for 400 hp on crank with a 350 with mild cam and a supercharger.

 

going to need to get it built.

 

how much will that cost and what will they do to it.

 

depends. i paid 740$ because im buddys with my tranny builder. you also cant use a stock converter.

if your legibly going to be puttting down that power then your going to want a staged 3 trans.

heres what mine consists of.

The Stage 2 700R4 is built for street and strip vehicles behind small and big block Chevrolet engines producing up to 550 foot pounds of torque with nitrous oxide or forced induction. Transmission is available for use with either lock up or non lock up converter.If using a lock up converter the transmission is internally modified for 4th gear lock up.No computer or special wiring needed.Just supply the transmission with 12 volts key on power and you are done.
COMPETITION COMPONENTS
Heat treated input shaft and steel reinforced input drum.Input housing modified for high rpm usage.Heat treated stator shaft,GM heavy duty 4 pinion rear planetary carrier with oil shield, heavy duty "BEAST" sun shell,heat treated reaction shaft assembly with oversize Torrington bearing, Corvette servo assembly, new factory style 4L65E deep pan and high flow filter.
CLUTCH AND BAND UPGRADES
Heavy duty input sprag.Heavy duty low roller clutch.Oversize red lined 2-4 band with weld reinforced anchors.All new clutches and steel plates.CK Performance exclusive 7 friction 3-4 clutch pack with nitrided .106” thick steels. High rpm 3/4 clutch return spring assemly.
HYDRAULIC UPGRADES
Increased line and lubrication pressures. Rebuilt front pump with hardened stator,10 vane pump rotor,new pump vanes,hardened vane rings,heavy duty pump slide springs, .555" CNC machined t.v. boost valve, .296" intermediate boost valve,enlarged drainback passages and heavy duty pressure control spring.Modified converter lock up circuit improves converter durability. Custom calibrated valve body and governor assembly.

any where from 1300$- 2100

 

If you put a shift kit and a tranny cooler, they are fine to 400 crank hp... mines holding up just fine... I'm slapping on a 150 shot when I get home too. Then we will see how it does.

 

Here is my motor setup. Can you tell me what i need: 350 with vortec heads stage 2 q-jet and weiand 142 mini blower, and edelbrock headers.

 

my advise is dont go with a stock tranny. built will last longer.

 

Look to Probuilt or PATC for a good built trans both are worth the money.

 

I had one behind a 500+ ft lb TPI 383 and it lasted about 3 years. I was running a full manual B&M shift kit, Flexalite 6 pass cooler with electric fan, corvette servos and accumulators/ high pressure regulator. However I did not abuse the trans. Little to no drag racing. Sure I would do a burnout now and then but I was running 2.73 gears/ stock torque converter/ one legged rear/ stock tires. Built the car for high cruising speed(100+) and gas mileage, not acceleration.

Look up some trans rebuild shops. A lot have websites nowadays. You may call em too. What kills auto transmissions is full throttle shifts and violent shock. If you ease into the gears they last a lot longer.

 

if you can build a motor you can rebuild your own transmission with the help of a Haynes manual. I bought a TCI streetfighter rebuild kit, a beast sunshell, and a 3000 rpm stall converter. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but by no means am I a ASE mechanic. I just took my time and followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. It worked flawlessly. I think the hardest thing was figuring out all seals that come with the rebuild kit.

BTW- my car has about 400hp at the crank.

 

Im at 408rwhp and 440rwtq on a stock 700r4. Been this way for a year with my race habits in autox and mexico. Never given me a problem

 

You're one of the lucky few.

 

I've never actually pushed a built 700R-4 to the breaking point, though I've killed many stock versions. I had a BTO level 2 that I ran in a N/A 355 powered '88 IROC-Z, I ran low 10s without hurting it. I still have it. It now has close to 220,000 miles on it since I got it from some guy who got it from BTO.
I've run it in pickups as well as F-cars. It's been a good investment. BTO is cheaper than most others, and they do both stationary-dyno and in-car testing, on every trans, before they ship.
I've also rebuilt a few on my own, following various instruction books. If you want to do it, I say go with TCI. Skip the $250-or-so kits, and get the $600-or-so kit. Their CPVB is fine for big blocks or power adders, but otherwise is a waste of money.

 

ckperformance.com....


local guy in ny that has been in every car mag for outstanding work