bought a 92 camaro rs 25th anniversary about a month ago. think dropping a new engine will fix a lot of problems but not sure where to start... it currently has the following:
305 automatic with 2 barrel carb, k&n air filter, and a full flowmaster exhaust system.
basically all stock except for the exhaust. it has over 186k miles on it. and likes to heat up quick. ive done some minor repairs such as recharging the air filter and replacing the breather, replaced the radiator cap and it stopped loosing coolant (the seal on the original was torn and rotted). car ran better. on a cold start it does fine but if i have been driving and the engine is hot (220+) it will turn over run for a second or two then die as if no gas is getting to the carb. at that point i make sure im on a level surface and try again. the trick Ive learned is to feather the gas pedal but be careful not to flood it (sometimes feathering it doesn't move the gas) eventually ill be able to keep the rpms up and open up the throttle to get gas flowing again. after that it runs good but on occasion after traveling 30 feet down the street it would die again and id have to start over. the previous owner did put a new starter on but i can already hear a clicking sound upon starting the vehicle cold or hot. (might be the solenoid)
some info Ive gotten on the hot start problem is that i might have gummed up fuel lines, need to get the carb tuned, or replace the fuel delivery system.
next problem i have is a bad heater core. i keep getting this film on the inside of my windshield that is coming up through the vents in the dash doesn't bother me during the day but at night makes all the lights blurry, but for now i just keep paper towels around and wipe it off as needed.
i ultimately want to replace the guts of the vehicle and feel that the engine is a good place to start since it is old and has some miles on it.
that's where i come to this thread. i don't know much about Chevy or gm engines and don't really care how the fuel is delivered. a bigger engine would be nice so maybe a 350. but again that's why im posting this thread.

 

First - we need to know if you have a carb or if you have a TBI - take air cleaner off, look inside - see two fuel injectors in there? If so, it's a TBI - no factory carb on a 1992.

Next, you need to do a full tune up - oil, oil filter, plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor, air cleaner, and MOST importantly fuel filter since you have a fuel issue maybe.

Then, disconnect battery for 5 minutes, and reconnect (to reset computer). Then drive it, both in town and on highway, as much as possible for 30 minutes. Then get a paperclip and pull codes (if any) by follwing this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

Also, save these links:
https://www.thirdgen.org/faq
https://www.thirdgen.org/technical-articles

A ton of good info in there!

Get back to us with codes, and whether it actually a carb or if it's a TBI, and we'll go from there.

 

my mistake it is tbi, thank you for your clarification on that.
i took the vehicle to midas after i bought it and had the oil changed, they noted that there was oil seeping through the oil pan and through the differential. when i first joined the forums here i was told to do the paper clip and pull the codes, nothing serious and only three:
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flash flash pause flash flash flash = 23; low temp at manifold air temp sensor or throttle position sensor

flash flash flash pause flash flash = 32; Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve

flash flash flash flash flash pause flash flash flash = 53; High voltage at battery OR High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR Voltage reference error OR Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
there is one other mod on the vehicle that i didn't mention but may pertain to the last code. its a security feature where i have to put a sensor on my keychain to a sensor under the dash. basically the car wont start unless the sensor is tripped.

as to the other r&r that you noted i will be able to start on that when i get paid on the first.

 

OK - definitely do the tune up, especially the fuel filter.

Take the air cleaner off, start the car, and watch the injectors - they should spray a nice cone shape, and no dripping/dribbling.

The Manifold Temp Sensor is mounted inside the air cleaner - make sure it's connected - might try replacing it.

Might also try a MAP sensor - it's bolted to the lip above the firewall, just to the pass side of the distributor - will have a connector and a vacuum hose to it.

Usually the EGR stuff can be taken off and cleaned.

For the 'getting hot' issue, 220 is about normal operating temps, though most of us don't like it - we'd rather have lower. There is a fan switch located in the pass side head between #6 and #8 plugs - you can swap this out for a cooler switch (fan comes on at a cooler temp) - but coolant comes out there, so watch the face. Make sure you are running a 50/50 mix of coolant. You can also swap out for a slightly cooler thermostat (I think stock is 195, but go no lower than 180).

I never liked those factory style switches, never worked well on any of my cars - I switched to a seperate adjustable fan controller - it probes the radiator so no need to remove that factory switch, it's easy to wire, adjustable, and works great. The one I got is pricey at $100, but worth every penny to me - there are others available with different features for different prices, starting at about $35 - they have a few on the shelf at autozone/advance.