AFR 195 or 210?
Re: AFR 195 or 210?
But they add another 100Hp 
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Seriously
My 383 w/ 847 cam dynoed through 7K no problems on Pac 1518 beehives .( cam flat lined past 6400, was just testing the limits)
But when I put my .630 solid in for the " race app" I will be installing the rev kit I have because I like the idea of something other than the valve spring pushing on the lifter at the 7K+ revs I designed this engine for

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Seriously
My 383 w/ 847 cam dynoed through 7K no problems on Pac 1518 beehives .( cam flat lined past 6400, was just testing the limits)
But when I put my .630 solid in for the " race app" I will be installing the rev kit I have because I like the idea of something other than the valve spring pushing on the lifter at the 7K+ revs I designed this engine for
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; Sep 29, 2010 at 09:25 AM.
Re: AFR 195 or 210?
AFR never told me I needed one. I started having valve float problems over 10 years ago when I used to use World heads on supercharged motors. I've never used one made by AFR, but I assume like many other companies AFR started making them for aggressive hydraulic roller cams.
You have said that a few times but I think your missing a few things.
If you want a really aggressive cam profile that snaps that valve open and achieves max lift way early on in the duration than you need to have springs to control the valve. Hydraulic lifters can't take very heavy springs due to the nature of the lifter design. It's not that people are building the motors wrong, they are trying to run very aggressive camshafts but don't want to go solid and deal with the maintenance of setting lash frequently. The solution is to control the valve by putting the spring on the lifter BODY where you won't collapse the plunger.
If you want a really aggressive cam profile that snaps that valve open and achieves max lift way early on in the duration than you need to have springs to control the valve. Hydraulic lifters can't take very heavy springs due to the nature of the lifter design. It's not that people are building the motors wrong, they are trying to run very aggressive camshafts but don't want to go solid and deal with the maintenance of setting lash frequently. The solution is to control the valve by putting the spring on the lifter BODY where you won't collapse the plunger.

I'm trying to but you just don't get it John.. It's not always the RPM, but the rate of lift.
However, as it relates to the OP, I don't see it being necessary. My point is that Rev Kits were reccomended for an application that does not need them, specific to the OP. Now, if we want to talk about engines like VetteOz mentions, then yes, that's a different issue, but I am fairly certain that is not the intent of the OP. In fact, I have not seen anyone ask him about his cam profile, correct me if I'm wrong, as it relates to the necessity of a rev kit.
I am not arguing the need for a rev kit in particular applications, I am debating the necessity of it in THIS application
Let's say you have two camshafts right. Both are 230/230 at .050"
One is 280* advertised at .006" tappet lift.
The other is 284* advertised at .006" tappet lift.
So from .006" to .050" tappet lift, the first cam does it in 50 degrees, where the second cam takes 54 degrees. The first cam has faster ramps. From closed, seat, damn near closed to a measurable spec of .050" it takes less degress of revolution.
One is 280* advertised at .006" tappet lift.
The other is 284* advertised at .006" tappet lift.
So from .006" to .050" tappet lift, the first cam does it in 50 degrees, where the second cam takes 54 degrees. The first cam has faster ramps. From closed, seat, damn near closed to a measurable spec of .050" it takes less degress of revolution.
Now this is a minor example. The RPM is a constant factor, say 3k rpm gives you 1500 RPM camshaft speed. However with a slow cam vs a fast cam your valve is moving MUCH faster. The steeper the ram the more the valve wants to bounce rather than glide over it. This causes valve float. You need a proper spring to keep this valve in check. However, especially at low RPMs when oil pressure is lower big heavy springs tend to collapse hydraulic lifters. This causes another problem because as the motor revs up and oil pressure builds the lifter can actually create lash to the tune of .050" ore more at the rocker when the valve closes, which can bend pushrods or break them if they jump off the cup.
I think where there's some space between us is that we're having less of a technical discussion, because there really isn't a lot of room for that it is what it is. What I am talking about is strictly PROCESS. If an engine REQUIRES a rev kit to run right, then it wasn't designed right in the first place. The Rev kit is strictly INSURANCE like I said. Not a replacement for good design.
Now, I would expect that you could argue that a Rev Kit is PART of a good design, and that position has merit, however, I would sustain that it is more important to get the basics right then add the kit, rather than mask flaws in execution.
I think what you will find is that if the execution is correct, that rev kits are not really necessary in a lot of applications as it relates to this specific build, and many of the builds on this board. Should we NOT strive to help people build the best possible combination of parts rather than promote band aids for poorly designed valve trains?
Maybe I'm idealistic, stubborn, IDK. But I would much prefer to discuss the right way to do things, then come to the conclusion at the end of the day if something like a rev kit was needed. The alternative is to just seek out cool parts and slap them together whether they are appropriate to the application or not.... Just sayin.. Basics, basics, basics.
Another thing you need to consider as well is the powerband vs cubic inches of the motor. My camshaft in a 350 might make power to 6800 RPM, however in my 412, it might be on it's face at 5800, in your 427 it might be done by 5500. However, the ramps don't become any less aggressive just because the cubic inches of our engine have some much swept area that they require more duration to fill the cylinder (and therefore have higher vac than a smaller engine). They still need proper valve control.
To me, a professional engine builder would be negligent at best for not recommending cheap safety insurance like a rev kit if a customer is paying 6k plus for an engine with an aggressive camshaft. While I may or may not choose to run one based on how I feel a cam might perform with the springs I'm running, it's a totally different ball game when you are providing engines for customers that need to stay together. I've blown up many of the combos I've built for myself, but when I owned my shop I NEVER had a customer come back over a mechanical failure..
What did you use for a cam, John?
-- Joe
-- Joe
Power is all the way to 6500 RPMs which is exactly where I wanted it. The limitations of the valve train are 7000 so I wanted some margin in there told him to make it come off at about 6500, I'm at 64XX give or take. It kinda peters off, doesn't fall like a stone.
It's a 1206 port matched lightly ported Miniram and 215 CC heads. FOR ME the combination works just the way I wanted it to.
So basically, I have an aggressive cam, high lift, and run it to 6500 RPMs before slightly losing power, and that was with a 1/2 assed tune about a year ago.
And I don't run a rev kit. My AFR at WOT was 10.0 Maybe less, thats as far as the wideband would read. Now with the new ECU and tuning I'm getting that AFR to 13.X I expect to run the power closer to 7000. We'll see what happens. I'm cleaning it up as we speak and will get the tune dialed in by the end of October, I hope.
Then I'm taking a break.
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; Sep 29, 2010 at 09:35 AM.
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