All,
Ive read many posts hoping to find my question to no avail... So was wondering if someone could help me with several questions...

I should say that i'll primarily just drive this around and have some fun, no drag strip thoughts (yet at least)

I'm looking at buying a turn key ZZ4 for about $5k. It comes with A/C, alternator and it appears a power steering pump. "Turn-Key ZZ4 Crate Engine 350CI 355HP HO 405 ft lb torq with Accessory Kit And More 19201330

My questions

1. The A/C is on the 'wrong' side, I've read previous posts about getting custom tubes made. Was wondering if these are now available for purchase somewhere? Also, it appears the new engine comes with a R-134 system whereas my car is R12. I would prefer to stick with R-12. Thoughts?

2. Will I need to "notch" my KFrame?

3. I'll need a set of headers. Any suggestions?

4. I've read about some wiring changes and maybe some computer discussions. The ZZ4 basically has switched sides of most components... Do I just lengthen the wires? or is there a wiring harness to purchase?

5. Any other tips or suggestions I should be aware of?

I understand that there are "cheaper" engine approaches... Lets just say I'm $2600 into 'good ideas' and I'm not happy. I want to just pay the $$ for a very reliable turn key solution.



Greg

 

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

I'll try to answer your questions:

You can get '88-'92 tubes that will bolt on directly. I would convert over to R-134 (wait, I did convert to R-134...).

No. The ZZ4 pan fits fine in the 3rd gen chassis.

'86-'90 TPI single cat application exhaust from headers to tailpipe. The Hooker 2055HKR are about as good as you can do "off-the-shelf". If you want to do better, PM TGO member Dyno Don.

You will have to both change wire lengths and some connectors (such as the alternator and AC pressure switch). You could get a '88-'92 harness and avoid most if not all of the changes. Can't guarantee that won't cause other mis-matches, though.

Personally, I would get the ZZ4 engine and put all of your accessories and control (CC carb, distributor, etc.) on it (in fact, very close to what I did do - had World 305 heads instead of the aluminum heads, otherwise it was a ZZ3/4). Less money, less hassle, much better carb, maintains torque converter lock-up control, no harness splicing - the list goes on & on. Admittedly the serpentine belt system is superior to V-belts, but not enough to justify the extra expense and hassle, in my mind.

The #1 rule of engine swaps is, "There is no such thing as a bolt-in." "Turn-key" is also a myth.

If you decide to go with this "turn-key" engine, don't forget you need a TV cable geometry corrector bracket on the carb throttle arm. A higher stall torque converter would also be a very good idea. Also, that stuff about "external balance" is crap. The flexplate has a weight on it like all one-piece rear main seal flexplates, but that doesn't make the engine "external" balance. The damper is neutral balance. Wish they wouldn't call it "external".

 

1. Guess if I switch to R134 dont I have to change the evaporator, condensor, seals and orings?
IF, and thats a big if, but if I can order an R12 unit, why not? I dont see the effort paying off. Am I missing something
2. Thats good news!
3. Looked at the Hookers... guess theyd be legal in all 50. I might contact dyno dan and see what he has to say.
thanks!
4. That makes sense. I couldnt understand what I'd do with all that extra wiring. What should I do with all the extra emissions control stuff. I live in Al and they dont so much as look at your car. How much can emissions stuff can/should I remove? I'm also changing colors so I'll be painting everything anyway...
5. I'm with you, I bought a nice carb, distributor, some heads... but i just want as much turn key as possible.
6. I'm starting to learn turn key is only two words.
hey one last one,,, what to do with the gas tank... I've owned the car its whole life. but shes 26... sure hate to connect a $5K engine and not really know what in the tank... any suggestions?
thanks A BUNCH!

 

R12 is much more expensive to charge. It's not a bad idea to change the o-rings, receiver/drier, and orifice tube when converting to R134a, but other than that all you need to do is flush the condenser, evaporator, and lines, and use oil that is compatible with either R12 or R134a (if you're re-using your R12 compressor), and the conversion is pretty simple. You can recharge yourself after that if you need to.

I just dropped my 29-year-old tank last month while doing my LS1 conversion. Admittedly I've been using an AMSOIL gasoline additive for the last 12 years that cleans things up, but the tank looked sparkling clean inside. You can buy a new tank if you like, though.

 

Is there a way to clean or check the tank? Do radiator repair shops do this?

thanks!

 

Google "Eastwood gas tank sealer kit".