I've run the magnums under the stock rocker covers but not sure if they would clear the pro mags. I run the pro mags under some generic "tall" valve covers now. I like the pro mags. Strong design and the actual weight over the valve stem is not much different than an aluminum rocker. Most of the mass is concentrated around the fulcrum. The regular Magnums are nice too, and for 170 bucks cant beat them. They are a roller tip design but not full roller. They also say they are not for over 350 lb/in spring rates I think so may need to check that. I dont see how they would break tho, they seemed pretty rugged.

I've never seen an aluminum rocker break but they would have a lower life cycle

 

Never seen or had anyone close to me break one either, you just hear about it on some of the sites. Enough to scare some however! I definitely want full roller, I don't see much benefit to a roller tip only rocker since most of the friction is at the nut.
The promags are a great design and I am giving them alot of consideration.

 

I've never seen the dyno or track results with full roller vs roller tip rockers...i seriously doubt its much of a difference. I think full roller has its benefits in high rpm stability and strength

 

There is a interesting section in David Vizards SBC building book where he bench tested rockers to the point of failure, and the comp magnums were the strongest by far. I've never seen any other test like that so I figured it was worth mentioning.

That's my take on it too Orr89RocZ, there's not much point in full roller for a sub 6k motor. You may pick up 5-10hp or something lame like that, but you could break wind next to a dyno and pick that up.

 

So.... It would seem many are wasting money on full roller when the true benefit doesn't come into play until 6k+ rpm range. I need to look into some more than.

 

well you may be pushing into the low 6K range so its still has some advantages.

Another thing I like about the full roller promags is the 2 piece adjusting nuts. They have a 5/8" nut for tightening and then a lock nut inside the 5/8" nut..its an allen key type threaded plug basically that locks everything together. Makes adjusting lifter preload very easy. I think i bought mine used from the classifieds here for 250 bucks or so, i cant remember but they are working great. I used them on the 383 over the regular mags because I turned to 6800-7000 rpm at times and also ran over 412lbs pressure at full open so I wanted to make sure I had some strong parts in there.

 

True, I will poking it above 6k, reminds me... I need to call the builder tomorrow to find out about the spring pressure, and will work out the final rocker choice with him.

 

I decided to go with the Harland Sharps s1005's.
Both my builder and AFR recommended them over the Comp pro mags, suprisingly!
Its also saving me some money for a change which is nice

 

The Harland Sharps will work out just fine.

 

I'm sure they will!

Getting down to the last few things to complete the engine build!
Aside from some miscellaneous items, such as; oil pan, balancer, flexplate, I'am down to the intake. I hope to take care of that in the next couiple weeks, and I am still determined to make it the FIRST.

 

whats your plans for the flexplate, oil pan and balancer? I kept the stock pan for now, only had 80k and in perfect condition. With all the bickering about what RPM range you should be running at i lost track if you did get the 6inch rods or switched lol Curious what pan will work well

 

[quote=LS4GXP;4785267]whats your plans for the flexplate, oil pan and balancer? I kept the stock pan for now, only had 80k and in perfect condition. With all the bickering about what RPM range you should be running at i lost track if you did get the 6inch rods or switched lol Curious what pan will work well[/quote

I went 6 inch rods. As far as I know, going to stay stock pan unless it doesn't clear. My builder has a good flex plate kicking around that he will throw on. Still looking into balancers at the moment. Is yours internaly or externaly balanced?

 

Internal, i think this is the balancer i got, without looking at the reciept
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917784/

Hopefully you will get lucky with the pan, not sure how that works with the 6in though

 

Keeping my fingers crossed with the pan. Some hit depending on the rod, but a mallet should take of that. I like that balancer.

 

You forgot shaft mount rockers.

 

For a mild street engine and $1100.00us ?
Did not consider it!

 

Have you started putting the motor together yet? Looks like you have put a whole lot of time and thought into it. I like your whole approach; should be an awesome driver.
Are you planning to do the tune yourself?

 

It is started, short block is pretty much complete.

Lol, yeah, almost too much thought!

I think I will give the tuning a shot myself. I have been doing alot of reading on it, and as tough and tedious as it is, i think it will be a lot of fun.

 

Im following your thread (build).....getting ready to do the same myself. (But, I admit, with the 4th gen camaros running high 12's bone stock, I am starting to ask myself why I am going to spend almost as much on a motor for my car when I could buy a 4th gen car for the same price and be in the 12's either way........ I think the third gens looks so much better, but damn, am I being stupid here?)

 

I know what your saying! Its cheaper to make them fast...... I almost bought 3 different 4th gens, but come on, there are just not as nice looking as the straight lines of the third gen!
You dont have to spend alot on yours, keep it simple, if there is such a thing!

 

Things are still moving along!

Motor is done, Builder fired it up today on the engine dyno. i wasn't there for it but its running very well. We put on a carb to get it fired for now. We wanted to insure that it worked well before we installed the injection system and place it in the car, that'll eliminate some factors if i run into tuning or starting issues once in the car.
Dyno Dons headers are in and look excellent, i am sure they will work great!
Will be ordering the intake tomorrow or Sat.

I think i will start removing the 305 next week, i want to take it out for one more boot, and video log it before pulling it. Roads should be washed by the rain by then.

Btw, motor on the carb pulled 515 @ 5600 today. I know those numbers will change, but i think its a good start

 

"Btw, motor on the carb pulled 515 @ 6000 today."

Now if you can get 500hp with the motor in the car that would be real good.

 

lol, we know thats not going to happen! Unless of course i get stupid and add a little n2o!

 

Nice! Gets me alittle more excited : )

 

You dont need them for a 6000 rpm motor.


Without re reading the whole thread what did you wind up doing on your motor cam/head/intake wise?

 

383 w/ 6inch rods
Heads- afr 1040
mike jones cam 228/228
going with the FIRST TPI intake

Went to the shop today and gave it a good run again,

with the carb set up it pulled: 513 @ 5600 and 500ft/lbs at 5000
Torque peaked higher because of the carb/intake and header setup, I am sure the band will drop some with the TPI.

 

Curious what carb and intake did you use.

 

"I am sure the band will drop some with the TPI"

Actually with the longer runner First TPI set up you might increase the torque. With some judicial porting both might go up.

 

Peak tq may go up, but i would think at a lower rpm?
We'll see I guess, my builder loves the engine!

Ls4gxp. the intake was a torquer, long tube headers, not sure of the holley carb. The test is actually a little fubar........... my cam is totally wrong for the intake and headers, more set up for your app. Your numbers should be killer though.

 

That torker was probably starving that motor on the dyno your FIRST base would kill it flow wise.

 

A torquer????. If so your motor did good with that intake on it.

 

Sorry guys! brain fart. It was a victor, not torquer......

 

I was gonna say, a torquer doesnt sound right. Those numbers seem way to good for a torquer intake

 

lol.
Both my builder and i were not expecting to see those numbers, he has been pleased and impressed with every single AFR headed build he has done. Both him and I cant wait to get the intake on it!

 

Anyone know what the max hp/airflow a factory TPI MAF system would support.
I started getting worried last night thinking of it........Who has dealt with a maxed out factory MAF sensor, or am i worrying too much?

 

IMO you shouldnt have to worry about it if you gut it and have a good air intake in front of it.

I went from a gutted screen stock MAF with gutted TPI air intake in front of it and went to a custom created 3.5" MAF using stock MAF guts, and 3.5 CAI taking air from underneath the front battery box area and tuned it to the same air/fuel ratio that I had from my dyno tune. This was on a 6800 rpm 400whp 383 running mid 11's in the summer heat

I didnt see anything at the track...same mph/same ET's but it looked very cool and made it easier for me to install my nitrous nozzle kit

 

IMO leave the victor and the carb, your motor likes it

but in reality i know you cant, so this post is just pointless

 

Okay.. i 'should' be safe, at least worth a try as is!

 

Lol, I know it runs well like this, safe me some $ as well. But I need my Fuely

 

good to see a rather small cam (228 deg) make big numbers like that. Some may call it a dumptruck being only 5600 rpm peak but 516hp is no slouch..thats a mid 11 second car and then some. Jones cam is working.

 

It is a very good cam, i was rather suprised how well it idled at 750 with a carb. I would hope it runs as well and strong with the FIRST.... Cant see why it wouldn't, even if it takes a while to get the tune just right!
My builder is truly in love with this thing, his strongest 383 yet.

 

My Jones 228/228 camshaft idled very nicely and it was only a 355. Passed California smog with no problems. Going to the dyno on March 26 with the new motor and the Jones 233/233 camshaft. I will let you know how that turns out.

"My builder is truly in love with this thing, his strongest 383 yet."

I believe the AFR head and Jones camshaft make for a potent combination. If you were here in Southern California we could help you out and make that First even more potent.

 

I've been playing more and more with my idle/no load revs tuning with my 233 cam and recently dropped idle from 950-1000 to about 850 now and it seems really stable and alot tamer. 233 on a 112 for a 401 is pretty mild so 800 rpm should be all it ever needed in the first place. 228 on a 383 should be same way if the LSA is over or at 112

 

Both of the Jones cam idled quite nicely at 800 rpm in my cars. When I put the stock torque converter back in the car temporarily it forced the motor to idle at 700rpm. That is with the 233/233 camshaft. With some tuning it is now acceptable at the 700rpm level but under some load.

 

What was your lift/intake on your car with the 233/233 cam?

 

What intake are you planning to run with the 233/233?

Can't wait to see the results!

 

What do you have the 233 in, your daily driver ls1?

 

That motor already made tons of power, 535hp or so in a 369" motor with an unported victor I believe. It should still make great power in their modified ported TPI stuff.

The 233/233 cam I got from jones is in my 401 twin turbo. When I do a cam for the LS1 i may go 228/232 from Jones

 

Oh, I see! Gotta love turbos, mild engine> 9.6ish

 

Just came across your thread. Curious, where's your 'home' track? TMP opens April 2nd.