Glad she ran well for ya! Was this your first time at the track? Lol my first day at the track, I couldn't have cared less what times I ran.

Ya beat me by the way. 12.76@110.

Yeah, your 60' times could use some improvement, but my last 60' times were like 2.0! Could you foot brake it any higher? I am contemplating a dual caliper setup in the back. Last time I was out, I was plowing through my front brakes (tires skidding) by like 2000rpm (2500 stall speed), and I know thats not gonna get any better with skinnies up front.

 

I think our cars would be a bumper apart all the way down the track,lol.

I was holding it back until about 2300, then it would plow through. i would love to stall it to exactly 3000. Such a pain to do the tranny pull though but i think I will do it this winter.

 

Congrats on the times.

 

That kinda makes me wonder what my times will be when I finally make a pass with the slicks on. Because I really wouldn't expect my times to be any quicker than yours...

 

SI'm sure you would run quicker since you should be putting down a bit more power than me. You can shave an easy 2-3 tenths off the line alone.

 

thx,
definately a big improvement from last year. Hopefully with some more tuning and technique I can knock it down some more.

 

Been following this thread for a while. Think one area you need to address is the exhaust. One mwmber on here switched from shorty 1 3/4 inch headers to the stainless works long tubes with off road pipe and went from 3.0 to 4 inch mufflex cat back and picked up about 55hp on chassis dyno. I actually pmed him about it and he said it was legit. I just purchased this setup also. He has about the same cube as you(385). Here is the thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...280-385-a.html

Something to look at. I feel something is holding this car back and it isnt the First intake. You have done your homework and I feel this should be dynoing higher than 320. Ever think of going to aftermarket ecu? Hope this helps. Take care.

 

"I almost felt like it needed another 300-500 of stall (3000-3200 total) I might consider sending it in for a tweak this winter."

That will help big time. I bought a Yank SS3600 and was surprised how docile it was around town.

 

Definatly. I was hesitant years back when Vigilante suggested a 2800 stall, now this is going back to 97 when there was not much imput to go on and most stall you saw were in the low 2000 range. Very streetable for my rpm range. Im sure I could go maybe 3200 and still be very streetable. Biggest b&m stacked cooler inline with factory tranny cooler temps never get over 120-130.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I also feel something is holding my combo back....Done my homework, but learning as I go!That is some fairly impressive gains for exhaust work, and a strong running combo, But I believe it, very nice!
I have been giving the exhaust some serious thought lately, just trying to tie it all in with future plan of a d1sc procharger this winter.
Long tubes and 4inch have to be damn loud though, but would work real fine and sound amazing lol. I will see what pipe max calculates, and go from there, this will give me an opportunity to "tune" the exhaust for maximum benefit.
My ecm is the EBL, love it, and don't think i have anything to gain by changing to aftermarket. So I am now running SD in place of MAF. Tuning with the EBL is excellent, and RBob's support and knowledge is second to none.





[quote=IROCZ1989;5376274]Definatly. i was hesitant years back when Vigilante suggested a 2800 stall, now this is going back to 97 when there was not much imput to go on and most stall you saw were in the low 2000 range. Very streetable for my rpm range. Im sure I could go maybe 3200 and still be very streetable. Biggest b&m stacked cooler inline with factory tranny cooler temps never get over 120-130.[/quote

I definitely went a little conservative on the stall, I want to see at least a few more hundred rpms off the line, she drags for a split second before taking off hard, for fun I will post a video link of some runs, I think its easy to see how its a little soft off the brake.
To 1989gtatransam. How does your yank 3600 react off a "brake stall" Does it stall to 3600, or just flash to 3600 once you get off the brake and onto WOT?

thx for the input.

 

"To 1989gtatransam. How does your yank 3600 react off a "brake stall" Does it stall to 3600, or just flash to 3600 once you get off the brake and onto WOT?"


I have had the best luck with say around 1200rpm at the starting line then on the last yellow mash the throttle. The SS3600 worked out better than I thought and I am now running a SS4000 for maximum track times. I would not be afraid of an SS3600 with mostly street and some track time. I think that is Yanks most popular converter. I have mine set to lock up at 45mph.

 

Oh , I see now... good technique to flash the converter well before the green light instead of trying to hold it back on the line. Will have to try that.

 

What did the GT500 run? They are one heavy beast!!

 

Heavy, but it puts it down. 540rwhp( on a conservative tune)
He ran 11.9 @126mph, with a 2.0 60 ft. Its heavy with alot of power so its not an easy launch off drag radials. He's dropping down to smaller rim and more tire, I can see 11.5's or so out of it.
I have some video of us running each other, I will post it up on you tube. Its quite comical actually, I hold him back until about the 1/8th, then he blows by me as if im standing still.

Im looking to change it up this winter, just not sure which route I want to take.

 

What are you thinking of doing and what da for brother?

 

Thought of boosting (procharger) which in that case I will most likely keep the top end I have. Or keep it n/a and go different top end package.

Not sure of the Da for that day.

 

Guess that depends on your budget and hp goals. It would be nice to throw more cubes at it with a miniram , and a slighty bigger cam. What is your CR?

Just not sold on the FIRST, but that's just me. Maybe its top notch!

Let me know if you need AFR heads!

 

Im at 10.2:1.
Engine only has about 7000kms, too fresh to consider stripping it down for more cubes, and dont feel like dishing out so much money for a short block, and this short block is stout. At this point I think the money would be better spent on bigger heads to increase flow and lower compression so I can add more boost. If the bottom goes out, i dont think i would do another sbc, would move onto LSX platform.

If time allows, I have been considering a straight up test comparison this winter, a challenge with my First with more porting and siamesing versus either a mini ram or Victor E. Will see how it goes. Do you have a spare mini ram you can to lend me for testing? lol.
The First does move a TON of air, I think the only limiting factor is it's runner length is long for some combos, but there is a lot of room to tune runner length and port the base to flow even more.

Will definately buy the heads through you if I go that route, great price!

 

You coming to Lancaster this spring??.

 

I'm going to try, my friend lives near by and wants to set up a day for a few guys. I'll let you know!

 

update:

After a long cold winter...... getting my lazy @ss back into the garage.

Original plans for the spring was to install a super charger, but i am going to hold off for a few mths.
For the time being, I came across a killer deal on a t56 trans set up. Its a full package deal with pretty much everything i need to get it installed. i think the car will be sick and a lot of fun with a 6sp 3:91-4:11 set up. Along with this trans will be an even greater need for my new diff, there's no way the factory 10 bolt will hold up to a hard clutch dump or hard shifting, so i will do that as soon as I can. Then i will be in a better position for the Procharger this summer.
I also planned on doing some more intake work, and while im there, I will be unbolting the heads to install some Cometic mls gaskets and head studs , may as well , im half way there once the intake is off.

I will decide at the time of confirming my quench area what thickness gasket to go with. I would like to drop some compression, but at 10.2-1, I'm not too concerned. I am concerned about widening the quench area and running into detonation issues. I'm just don't know how important it is considering deep dish pistons barely have a quench "shelve" , so i'm not sure how the flame travel across the dish can be any different than a loser quench area with a flat top like mine . I suppose I have lots of reading to do.....
I would prefer not depending on a meth setup, but will use one if necessary.



cant wait!!

For the time being I will have my Probuilt street/strip 700r4, 2600 rpm Vigilante converter, UMI adjustable torque arm, and UMI Trans crossmember (with d.s loop) for sale in the classifieds here. If anyone following the thread has an interest in the parts, let me know.

thx

 

You do lose a little quench when you switch to a dish piston, but most of them still have a quench land all the way around the perimeter of the piston, which when you take into account the geometry of the combustion chamber, you're probably not even losing half of the quench area. And FI builds tend to seem much less concerned with quench anyway. My Mitsubishi pistons are .050" down in the hole!

 

Yeah, so you are probably talking about an area of .100, not "ideal", that's for sure, but it works.
So far from what i gather, it seems that the benefits of lowering compression ( for boosting) with the use of a thicker gasket FAR outweigh the benefits of keeping a tight quench area.

 

Any updates in here, just got done reading.

 

Not much since the long tubes. Trying to get it to the track to see what it does in this configuration before my next step, which is a procharger set up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...first-tpi.html