Ok I had a basic help talk on the opsu bypass but fully would like exact details.I deleated the vats but it made no difference anyway it pops back on and I have a gen 1 block so the opsu dont fit all the way in anyhoo. If somebody could give me exact details of how to bypass the opsu CORRECTLY I will do that as it makes sense from what people tell me.It is a convertible so the key will stay in the car for the remote control stereo. I ALSO need help to bypass the fan.I do have the glow shift gauges and did install the water mount upgrade to the top radiator hose with the temp sensor.Can I connect the fan to that temp sensor somehow? Also I need the exact details on how to both of these procedures as I am **** retentive and do not half XXX anything.On the temp thing if a cheap part would help the fan I would do that same with the opsu.BUT the wifes geeing pretty pissed I have a ton of cash in the T5-being bult heavy duty and the motor itself.Right now I use the A/C switch but she is running at 220 so I know I must make a change there also if I want to cool her down.It is a new built gen 1 motor that was blueprinted to do 10.2s in a 69 maro build we had planned and I stuck it in the 91 convertible and we tuned it down as much as we could for everyday driver.It does great but I know if I nailed it I would eat the new clutch to nothing.I need to know what color wires and where for the OPSU and the fan please and any cheap cooling tricks anyone knows please.I thank you in advance and sorry I ask for full details but like I said I can not put this car down as I just got it on the road again and if I take of both bay spots up again for a few days I will never hear the end of it.So far I have been told to wire the fan directly to the fan relay????? that dont work for me I need to know exactly where to solder and shrink tube OR can I tap it into the glow shift temp sending unit .So I must go in and just do it with no delays.I do have every tool made though for a diagnostic master tech if that helps.thanks Oh and how can I post pics here ?

If you had questions answered in another thread , you should continue to ask questions there instead of starting a new ,vague VATS ,OP switch ,fan ,stereo , gauges ,trans ,engine ,clutch, post that makes no sense.
This is engine swap section ;
In all your rambling above ,you make no mention of what you are swapping ;TBI to TPI , TPI to carb , carb to TPI ????????

Not sure why you want to " bypass" the OP switch ( it is there to get you home if the pump relay fails ) but if you don't want it to work just disconnect the wires
Also have no idea why your OP switch won't fit when it fits every other Gen 1 engine?

Not making much sense either
What pops back on ? OPSU has no connection to VATS.

No
Do a search , plenty of posts on fan wiring ( at least one a week )

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...elay-help.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...an-hayden.html

Thanks for the kickdown and or try whatever it is-It is a motor swap-
On the top of the oil filter on the block its a (HD 69 vette motor) is a hump that the opsu wont fit.Its a TBI I stuck a 383 in,You can not fit a opsu in as the hexnut or the pinion nut on the new ones wont turn past that hump.Actually a couple other people had the same problem but I go not details how to bypass the unit.I do NOT want to bypass the unit but can find no adaptor that will make a tight seal and extend it out.Right now I tapped a "NO foul" plug adaptor and have a drip.THE COOLANT ISSUES DONE so its only the OPSU I have a problem with.I have been told here several times the only way around it is to bypass it.I would rather have it on.Ive not seen a gen 1 motor without that hump that I can think of come to think of it.I changed a 91TBI to carburated and yes the VATS does come into play with the FPSU on the 91 and 92 model years.It is not the OPSU wont screw in it just will not screw in far enough and seat fully and I have a drip.The hex hits the round bump above the oil filter but yes I might be better going back to the old thread where I did the R+R and see whats said there .The problem is that thread consists of milling the block for the starter-clutch conversion parts and numbers-sensors-afcourse the mallory set up and return issues and so on.So that threads getting a bit long.I thought I would just ask how to bypass the OPSU UNLESS as I begged so far for anyone that knows of a 3 prong correct sensor that would fit.Today I plan to hit the junk yard and take one apart and see if I can mill a new housing so it will fit in the block.I used a 98 corvette temp EDU and programmed it from 178 to 192 for the switch so the coolant switch is taken care of as you can not screw a coolant sensor in brodex heads between 6 and 8 cylinder.So what I would like is an extention for the opsu or a relay or complete system I can install thats not going to break my wallet that will operate on the ecu.My guess is you have upper and lower units instead of the larger 3 prong at the bottom and tht is why it fits for you on your gen 1.maybe thats the way to go to think of it,Maybe if I take the older years sensors and install them maybe they will work and fit.Anyone know if they work on the ECU and whats the Diet code for the v tree for vats if it can be done?

Gee you make it hard to read ; hit the space bar occasionally.

If you can't fit the switch above the oil filter why can't you put it on a adapter at back of block like the Vettes do from the factory?

Early style ; seperate OP switch and gauge sender




Late w/combined unit

VATS has no connection to OP switch.
VATS cuts off the starter and the injectors; period
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ine_wiring.gif

Read
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

Bypassing VATS by using the resistor only fools the unit into thinking the correct key is in the Ign.
As VATS is still functional; if the VATS module/ wiring or starter enable relay fails then bypass has no effect

FWIW ;
I am using a longer version of this 1/8"NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter on one of my engines with no leaks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2269/

NPT thread is tapered so it seals as you tighten it up