Hi guys. I was hoping that someone can tell me the type of relay and what the cut wires are use for (one of them is for the fan relay but how is it wired)? PO jerry rigged the heck out of this one. The fan stopped working. So I followed the wires from the fan and it lead to this junk circled in white. I took off the black tape and found what your seeing. Any help would be great. Also if anyone can provide pictures of they're actual relay, would be very much appreciated.

 

Quick and easy solution is to run new wiring

Go to a JY and grab a new relay with wire, fan plug (bot right) and knock sensor connector (bot left)



Relay type is irrelevant as they all function the same regardless of make and usage. Just be sure the input/output wires are 10-12ga, the call wires can be tiny 22ga. It really doesnt make any difference. Id avoid the relays on the left. The wires like to pull out and short against each other

Install a new fan switch in the pass cyl head and use the knock sensor connector on one of the small call wires. Run the other to an IGN source, not battery. If you run the call wire to the battery, the fan will run until the engine is cooled down, not just the radiator. That means the fan can run for 20-30 mins after you shut it off

Run one large wire to the battery or junction block, and the other to your fan connector and ground the opposite wire

30 mins of work and your automatic fans work again

 

So does this diagram help or what modification should I do here? This will be my first time rewiring so if you dont mind, can you draw or make a scetch of your thought?

 

Like that, except ignore the ECM stuff down at the lower right and just hook it directly to the fan switch on the cyl head

 

Ok. Then Im going to buy a switch, but which one would you prefer?

 

Any will work. Stock should look like a knock sensor, just match your connector to the switch

 

AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH. Thats why you mentioned to get a knock sensor plug from a JY. Also Im going to make a scetch of the idea that I had in mind. Ill get back to you in about 10 minutes.

 

Pocket, can this work too? Messed up on the 20a fuse, should be a 30a right?

 

not trying to steal the thread or anything but the green/white going to the fan relay if you ground that wire and if the fans turn on the relay is bad right? and if the fans do not turn on the realy is ok correct? Im doing this right now if anyone can help it would be much appreciated

 

You did steal this g*d for-sakin thread. this is my thread. Just Kidding. It's all good bro. No, the relay is good if you ground the green/white wire. What is probably bad is the coolant temperature sensor, it's probably not grounding inside of the case. To verify if it works, get a multimeter and connect the prongs of the temp sensor to the black wire and red wire of the meter while cold. Your gonna want to check for continuety. Now turn on the Camaro. keep your eyes on the multimeter, when numbers start appearing, then the sensor is good. But if there is no response, then the sensor is not responding to the heat of the coolant. Make sense?

 

Yes, but relays usually interrupt the 12v side, not the ground. Here is how I do it for LTx/LSx harnesses. The C100 pin goes to the fuseblock and is shared with the alt. The PCM pin will go to your fan switch



With your IGN on, grounding the DK GRN/WHT wire will cause the fan to engage. If it doesnt come on, check your fan fuse. If thats ok, check the fusible link at the power dist block and on the starter. If all of those are ok, unplug the relay body and jumper a wire from the 12v battery terminal to the BLK/RED wire in the relay connector. If the fan turns on, replace the relay, if the fan does not turn on replace the fan motor

The secondary fan in dual setups is a bit different. Turn on the AC (working or not it should kick on) to test. If it doesnt, go through the same procedure as above on the secondary relay

 

THANK YOU! All of that really helped im gunna check it right now than you all lol

 

Compared to the diagram that I provided, the C100 pin is the tan/white wire right?

 

Yes, same function. Older cars didnt run the wire through the C100, rather the C207 or C221 near the ECM

 

Very good info pocket.

 

what is the c1000 g8 where does that wire go. I dont understand.

thanks for the lesson

 

Dont worry about that coded junk. To make things less complicated, C100 G8 is the fuse box. Keep in mind that there are a few different color codes to wires in different years of our cars. That white/tan wire should be connected to the wire that leads to the fuse box under the steering column. I believe the fuse holder name is something like radiator fan or coolant fan. So to answer your question, yes. The C100 G8 pin is indeed the tan/white wire. Good luck with your re-wiring bro.

 

Connector and pin location for 90-92 cars

It goes to the alt/fan fuse

 

Well, i kind of dont understand it .

I have 5 wires on my fan relay ?!!!

if i want to re wire the wires going to the Fan and such with new ones...where do they all go ??

Thanks for any help .

 

is your system a double fan, or one?

 

Thanks everyone.. so really it just another 12v power supply.

 

yup. A 12v supply with a fuse.

 

I got it figured out !!!!!! THANKS....

its single and has 5 prongs but only 4 wires..lol

 

Hi All and this goes to chevy86 IROC-Z, I got everything hookup right. Now the fan will still not kick on, I ran the car up to almost 250 degress. As I have stated I have replace the temp senor, ECM, and fan relay... I only have one fun Im not setup for the dual fans. What you guys think this might be.. the ECM is stock so it should be kicking off at 220 degress.

 

mbrown, what engine/year setup do you have? Is it a stock single electric fan, and are you trying to get a stock or custom system to work? Did it ever work, or is this a new problem. Just trying to understand what is going on

 

it's a 1990 5.7. Stock single fan setup with one relay. The fan is aftermarket. Change it out cuase the old stock fan was'nt working. So I thought the fan was bad and got the new one. So I dont thinking it ever worked... So then I start replace parts, the Temp Senor, then the ECM, moved on to Relay, also put in a 180 thermastat. I think these are all the part that would make this Darn then work.. I have a toggle switch for now but would really like to get this to work the way it was designed.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

mbrown, Am I correct in assuming it is a stock TPI engine. I thought they all came with dual fans. Or could you have a swapped in 5.7 TBI engine with original single fan wiring? Is your car an RS or Z-28? Is your fan working with the toggle switch and where is it connected? Sorry about all the questions, but I finally got mine to be reliable and would like you to get the same results. Hope I can be of help

 

Yes its a stock setup. as far as the dual setup I dont know if it came with one. remember It was swapped out for an aftermarket fan. the car itself is a Z-28. the fan is working with a toggle switch. I tapped into the green/white wire that is going to the ECM. and yes it working with the toggle switch. Really like to get it to work without one though.. What was your issue on your car? And again thanks for taking the time to help me. All you guys are great.

 

The thing is, mine is a single fan setup that only works off a temperature actuated switch and has nothing to do with the ECM. Yours sound like it may be way different and not anything I know much about. Try looking in the technical articles section. There is a piece on the fan systems that may help

 

All Fans ..i thought work over the temp switch in the HEAD ( passanger side ) !!
Did u change that ???
U say u changed a temp sender , but the fan runs of the switch !!!
Temp sender is in the driver side HEAD !!

 

I dont think I have a temp switch or know of one.. Can you tell me more and this temp switch tied into the harness that the ECM runs?? Educate me more please

 

There is a temp switch on the passenger side cylinder head..between the last 2 exhaust ports !!!

Its hard to see from the top, but if u get under your car..u will see it !!!

I will find a picture for you!

 

READ THIS , hope it helps !!!!!!!!

I see that everyone in this board is either confused or just not certain about 3 similar devices that perform 3 different things.
Im gonna help out with the confusion and name the parts correctly.

1. Coolant Temperature Sending unit - This piece is usually bolted into the driverside cylinderhead. It reads the temperature of the coolant and depending on the temp, its resistance varies which sends a signal to the instrument clusters Temperature gauge. Food for thought, there are 2 different types of this sending unit. They can be identified as one pin or two pin. My 86 IROC-Z uses the 1-pin unit.


2. Coolant Temperature Sensor - It is bolted in the front side of the TPI intake manifold. It's purpose is to read the temperature of the coolant and send that reading to the ECM. Depending on what the "coolant fan turn on" is programmed in the MemCal, it will activate and close the circuit to power up one fan in the years of 87 and up on IROC models, and the single fan of the 86 IROC-Z. I reprogrammed my fan turn on at 180* by using a Moates adapter and reprogramming a blank EPROM with a 87 IROC-Z BIN file to override my 86 IROC-Z 305 BIN. Notice the oval connection.


3. Coolant Fan Switch - This switch is bolted in the passengerside cylinder head. It is designed to "ground" itself at the temperature that is was designed at. Its only purpose is to turn on the secondary fan if the primary ECM controlled fan is not cooling the sytem. Notice that the connection has the exact same connection that the Knock Sensor has.


The best way to identify these parts are by its connecter.

1. Coolant Temp Sending Unit - one male terminal connector
2. Coolant Temp Sensor - Oval connector
3. Turn on fan switch - same connector such as the Knock Sensor

 

If its a single fan setup, will it still need one??? or did all Camaro's come with this temp switch? And what does it connect to the ECM or what? I think you might have come across something DareDevil

thats funny I was reading the same thread.

 

Hey DareDevil you have a personal email... this theard is getting long. mine is mbrown0390@gmail.com

 

e-mail sent !!!!

 

not 100% correct. My 86 IROC came with the single fan. And yes it was a 305. So not all TPI's had double fan. Food for thought.

 

The temperature switch runs the secondary fan while the primary fan is controlled by the ECM. Im not quite sure how the correct way to hook up a single fan setup. Mine wont turn on using the ECM method so Im guessing on going the temp switch route.

 

If that is true, then why do all single engine camaros have a fen switch ???

I think its the other way around..but maybe this also changed from year to year with most stuff on our cars ??!!!

 

Ok, I've seen TPI's with the single fans, I just didn't think 5.7's did, but you learn new stuff all the time, or maybe it originally was a 5.0. Anyway, single fan is pretty simple. Fan switch in pass. side head reaches a certain temp and grounds out the attached green and white wire going to the relay which causes the relay to send 12 volts down the black with red stripe wire to turn on the fan. Turning on the AC also grounds out the same wire and also turns on the fan. Below a certain temp the switch stops grounding the wire and the fan goes off until it's start temp is reached again. Having switches with different off/on temp values gives you more control over the operating range. ECM not involved at all.

 

So all single fan have factory turn on switches? Mine had a switch but I thought that it a mod that the PO made. Im gonna start a thread about how and what is involved with my/our single fan setups.

 

Finally!!!!!! I connected my fan, and relay correctly. But the fan never kicked on when I tested it. The EPROM was programmed to turn on at 190* and off at 182*. But according to my temp gauge, the IROC went all the way up to 200*. Well today I let the engine idle until all of a sudden the fan kicked on. I zapped the thermostat with a laser thermometer and the temp was 191*. So I thought there was a problem in the wiring the whole time when the problem was the temp gauge. Hell, its 20* off. I thought it was 200 when the coolant was actually 180*. Dumb temp gauge. Thats another fan issue resolved for the books. Thanks for all the info and help guys.