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89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

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Old 09-12-2015, 08:33 PM
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89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

OR IS ORANGE INCORRECTLY TAPPED SOMEWHERE?
dashboard, fuel, and fans together? really? that can't be right, can it?

Ten years ago, a garage "fixed" the fans so they both come on together. I can see it was wired so that both fans ran through one relay. Neither relay looks burnt, but I will swap them, since the seconday relay had no load ever! The secondary relay had its fan feed wire black with red strip cut, hidden in the harness. The two fan feeds were crimped together. Gee, thanks garage... How much did I pay to have them sand a ground wire and crimp two fan feeds together? I forget, but surely wasn't worth it.

A) What was the factory fuse size for the orange wire circuit that runs both fans and the fuel pump? (or that's how it was on this mangled mess) This one had 35 amps, is that correct?

B) Would you run a new ground cable from the battery to the other side of the radiator, where the sheet metal screw hold the grounds from both fans? just to add a beefy ground to the body (bigger than the little one off the main battery ground wire)

C) After ripping it all apart, why didn't they just route the ground wires toward the battery and use the screw that is currently direct to the battery? too small of wire?

The orange wire is pretty crusty at a crimp that looks factory, fairly deep into the wire harness on passenger side near the ac line...

D) Or should I reroute the grounds toward the battery and hook them in with the fairly small wire from the main battery negative cable that's screwed in next to the radiator? or just add a new main ground and leave them where they are... as it feeds something else, there's a nother ground wire going into a harness that must be for lights in front...

I cut out the orange wire that when you wiggle it, the fuel pump and dash lights went out... and cut out that big plastic nub and replaced with this
Amazon.com : DB Link 1/0 Gauge Ga Awg Gold ANL Fuse Holder with 250 Amp Fuse (Bulk) : Vehicle Amplifier Fuses : Car Electronics Amazon.com : DB Link 1/0 Gauge Ga Awg Gold ANL Fuse Holder with 250 Amp Fuse (Bulk) : Vehicle Amplifier Fuses : Car Electronics
I used a 200amp fuse

I replaced a crusty 35 amp fuse holder with two 20 amp ACM fuse holders with rubber covers that connect after the main fuse to attempt to separate the fuel and the cooling fan orange
- but you can't... didn't look closely at schematic, seems rather stupid to put so much crap on the same circuit
in diag mode, it pops one fuse, then the other...ha - clearly 20 amp isn't big enough and it draws from either one... wtf? I guess I'll have to look around more and trace orange to see what else is powered by it




the way it was on the car I didn't understand:
there were orange wires crimp connected to a wires coming out of either side of the big rubber nub (fusible link?), one had a fuse... the other had nothing but a crusty crimp...

The secondary temp switch is new.

_______________________________________________________

I've got a piece of ten gauge soldered to a 12 gauge fuse holder with a 30amp fuse (figuring maybe its old fans and would need more than 20amp)


from this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...y-getting.html
relay pins on connector of each relay
C-----A
D--E--F

pin E has the orange wire, factory circuit and is also connected to pin E on the 2nd relay
which now goes roundabout back to the battery to a 20amp fuse (too small for two fans)

The letters on the relay don't match my relays
the two relays in my car are positioned and labelled like this:
A -------
F -- E -- D
the schematic of where the letters go do match up exactly and with the color coded wires from the link above


Here's what I think I should do:

1. leave one relay for the secondary fan, and one for the main,

2. add a new, fused power feed for the main fan relay DONE.

3. run clean wire with clean, sealed connections from each relay to the each fan

4. ensure good ground for each fan ... ALMOST DONE

5. put all the orange fuses at 30 amps?

then it's wired up like factory?

except a beefed up fused wire from the battery to the main fan relay


***************************************************************
and be sure the new connections can withstand water, etc...
***************************************************************

WHAT WOULD YOU DO? thanks.

Last edited by gta892000; 09-13-2015 at 06:22 PM. Reason: moved questions to top
Old 09-13-2015, 06:01 PM
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Re: 89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

after ripping apart all the taped wire harness stuff to get at it

I found the cut wire that was supposed to feed the secondary fan

I found the main orange power wire with a corroded crimp with what looks like black duct tape falling apart... is that factory?

Why were the grounds routed to the passenger side to a sheet metal screw? Even if doing that, why not go toward the battery where it has the ground wire to the metal next to the radiator?

Does anyone have pictures of a correct, factory installation?
I just want to see where they routed the wires.
Old 09-14-2015, 04:32 PM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Welcome To The Fan Club

You should have the fans on separate fuses for several reasons including if one fan shorts, only one fan will blow the fuse and shut down, instead of shutting down both fans.


Originally Posted by GTA
…….200amp flat fuse box…….poorman's replacement fusible link…….
There are no individual circuits that draw 200 amps except for the starter therefore you won't be getting any protection with that 200 amp fuse.

Also a Fusible Link costs only a fraction of that holder & fuse.


Originally Posted by GTA
I've got a ……… fuse holder with a 30amp fuse (figuring maybe its old fans and would need more than 20amp)
Stick with a 20 amp fuse for each fan.

FYI when motors fail the usual result is the drawing of less, not more, current.


Originally Posted by GTA
I cut the main-fan black w red strip that was crimped to the other fan's power wire.……….Why did a garage do that ten years ago?
They couldn’t get the other fan to energize.


Originally Posted by GTA
What's the long lasting method of wiring repair when you have to splice something?
There is more than one way to make a splice last 4ever.

If using a butt splice cover it with liquid rubber, then tie wrap a splint in parallel, and remember not to over-crimp.

A large percentage people think that the tighter they squeeze the crimper the tighter the connection.

However the reality is they break strands resulting in future failure.

When splicing with wires alone use a Western Union splice, add solder, and heat shrink tubing.

You should keep the cooling electrical as close to stock as practical.

Having stated that, using larger gage wire is good, if lower temps will enhance your power curve, stick with that.



The problem with bypassing electrical faults is you might have that broken or nearly shorted, now unused wire that you couldn’t find waiting to cause a problem.


Happy Racing !



Fix It Right, Fix It 4ever

Old 09-16-2015, 12:24 AM
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Re: 89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

thanks for the advice.

I will make adjustments.

That 200a fuse is on the line with alternator and didn't know what size to make it.

I think I've dug up all problem wires.

As it is now:

secondary fan runs on original orange wire circuit
primary fan: new feed (to relay) and a new ground for both, 10gauge

can still replace the 200a with a 150 or 100a...what's the max for the alternator?

it seems that the orange wire circuit includes both fans and fuel pump and dash by factory? is that correct? my feeble attempt to separate them doesn't fix anything
although by removing the main fan, certainly, I expect a 20amp fuse to work...am I wrong?

thanks.

Last edited by gta892000; 09-16-2015 at 12:40 AM. Reason: to relay
Old 09-16-2015, 12:28 AM
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Re: 89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

I know why the secondary did not energize. I replaced the switch because it was bent, looked corroded, and had no wire attached. I found that wire, cleaned it up, added a new connector and attached it to the new temp switch. I wrapped the wire in the corrugated plastic stuff, then wrapped that in aluminum tape, and used safety wire attached to I forget what nearby to hold it in place because I knew it had no connector clip. Hopefully, that's enough for that.

I had way too many hours under the car looking at stuff ...
Old 09-16-2015, 12:29 AM
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Re: 89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

gee, thanks garage... why didn't they tell me that? it is basic, is it not?
Old 09-16-2015, 12:37 AM
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Re: 89 bird, dual fan together once worked, want it factory again

for several connections, I used the old method of strip it about an inch,
clean it with a wire wheel on a drill, then twist with pliers on both ends to make a decent connection, then solder with the one that has flux built in...
on a few others bigger, I used the torch with silver solder... ran out of heat shrink
used tape, one direction, then the other...hopefully good enough for several years...

it's still early, I can rip it all out now, if necessary... god, I am tired of it already

this would be the fourth time...but whatever... if I have to, then I will.

the garbage can is filled with my clipping of tape, heat shrink, zip strips, etc.. never thought I would run out of zip strips...

I think I will take photos and submit to see if you all approve...

everywhere it looks like vibrations, I get nervous as it will wear through, we all know it...

either I keep this car, or I do a good job for some kid who can afford it and put on some paint... the oil pressure is up...it seems to run strong... there's no big rust..underneath has one tiny little hole under driver's door, very tiny... the rest looked worse than it was, just the undercoating flaking off, didn't want to deceive anyone, so I gave it a light spray of flat black...
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