quick quest. I have a melling hv oil pump Part No. M-55HV from advance auto and I need to know does this still require the small block oil pump bolt? or maybe the big block oil pump bolt? I don't want the bolt to be too long because it will hit the main bearing. if it is too short then it might not hold the oil pump securely.

 

stock bolt sbc bolt will be just fine, just make sure you put the drive shaft for it in.(i had to pull the pan on mine lol)

a lot of people switch to the stud for fear of stripping out the threads in the cap. so just be careful, it gets torqued to 65 ft lbs

 

thanks man!

 

well between work, church,home, family and sleep I finally got a little work done and if things go right I'll have the 305 out of the car this weekend here are some pics of the engine. I got scared because I noticed after I got this far that the heads have small cylinder labels on them and that mark cyl. 3 on one head and cyl. 4 on the other so I panicked because of course I put them backwards. Then I looked at the ascessary holes drilled into the heads and seen that no matter how they are turned that the bolts still match and so do the exhaust ports. So now I'm not freaking out any more.

I guess I'm just tooo much of a rookie

 

ok I got the rockers preloaded (i think I got that right) the way I did it was I put the push rods between my finger and thumb and tightend the rocker until i could not move the pushrod easily or it stopped rotating freely in my fingers then I tightend a 1/2 a turn. And I did this only after bringing each cylinder up to TDC going by the directions in the book. this was my first time doing this so I ended up doing it twice the first time I got a grip on the pushrods and tightend down untill I couldn't turn them even using a pair of vise grips then I thought "wait that cant be right" and went back and studied the book and did them over.

While I have the valve covers off if someone has some advice please enlighten me this is my first time doing and I want to do it right. I think that I'm now on the right track. I'm going to try to have the 305 out today IF i can go home and concentrate on just that. Which is why I cut the grass yesterday!)

 

Do you have a steel drive shaft for the oil pump?

 

yes and it has a little collar on it that fit over the short shaft on the oil pump.

 

yep it sounds like you did it right, i always remembered intake open, exhaust close. that helped me. it sucks to have to do it one cylinder at a time. i would put the motor at tdc so it is easier to install the distributor. you will either be dead on or 180 out.

you will spin the pushrod in your fingers until you start to feel a little resistance(you will still be able to turn them just have a little resistance), then half a turn.

 

WHHEEWWWW!! THX man I appreciate the info. I was hoping that I did it right and that is just what I did. Now if I can get off work I'll finish putting the crossmember up on my homemade motor horse so that maybe Wed. if it is not raining I can pull the 305 out and start on the engine bay. then try to sand and clean up the valve covers then prime the oil pump and motor with the drill.

 

not a problem, glad your build is coming together.

 

hey yall guess what, I got my homemade motor horse up and stable. I got my brand new come along on and working. I got my car under the 6x6's. and started taking it out and it came on up like a champ.
\
then I realized that I do not have enough room to get the motor and tranny clear of the engine compartment. So I have to do something to get enough room to clear the car. But I'll git it together. lol !!! see I knew that the car would raise up but I had no clue that it would come up that far it looks like a monster truck. so now I have to think of something that doesn't involve taking the entire motor horse apart (I'm not doing that) lol!!!! I have the poles 8ft hgh but failed to calculate the 1.5ft of room that the comeallong was going to take up and the amount that the car was going to come up.

can we say rookie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

hey look i got it out

 

and look at these

 

I need to know what I need to get rid of as far as wiring and lines and i will be trying to keep the elect. fuel pump that i have right now. with the return line. butg I need the excess wiring out of the way. once again I'm going to a carb'd vortec 350 and fp regulator. somebody help me out I appreciate it.

 

you will want a regulator that has a return port on it, and what i did for the fuel pump.. i took the wire, which is in the big loom on the driver side(gray wire) and took it straight to keyed ignition

 

ok i'll remember that right now it's wired to a manual switch in the ddash and worked with the key it primed up and everything.

 

ok parts list:

1. flexplate - summit racing $30 153tooth 2-piece rms 10.75in bolt pattern
2. belt tensioner - rock auto $31
3. will try to use the same starter (parallel bolt holes) if diff. needed $44 advance auto
4. oil pump primer- summit racing $20
5. water pump - advance auto $18
6. valve cover gaskets
7. front and rear intake gaskets
8. mech. fuel pump hole gaskets
9. serpentine belt- autozone $30 for use with smog pump delete rerouting (960k6)

 

hey are we sure that if I follow the smog delete routing for my serp. belt that it won't effect the way that the water pump operates? b/c the pump will be turning in the opposite direction.

 

It should still be the same direction. The waterpump, as you are aware, has to turn in the appropriate direction to work properly. As long as the belt is over the waterpump and matching the pully you should be fine. A flat pulley for the back (smooth side) of the belt and a ridged or grooved pulley for the inside (grooved side) of the belt on all accessories you should be OK. If it is different then carefully recheck the belt routing.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/serpentine ok i found this and i see now that it still turns in the same direction thanx

 

Good deal. You have been making progress and I would expect soon that you are putting it in and hooking everything up to get it running again.

 

Hey thx man I appreciate that! I ran into an unseen prob. I was going to use the valva covers off of the 305tbi that - had (center bolt hole) but when I test fit them they went on good but I could rock them a little from side to side then I relized they were sitting a little low and the rocker arms were hitting them. So now I have to find some, I guess, taller is what they are called? Valve covers? How deep do they need to be the 305 covers are only like 2.5 in tall or deep or whatever you call it. Pleez help!

 

You need to clearance the support braces on the inside of the cover in order to clear your rocker arms if you're reusing stock valve covers.

You can buy aftermarket center-bolt covers too, but expect to spend at least $50-100.

 

Can't find tall centerbolt valve covers for less than 80 dollars anywhere ughhhhh!

 

Check your local classifieds (Kijiji, Craigslist, etc)

 

Fresh 40 over 350 block 2 bolt main with arp main studs
Bored and honed with torque plate, decked
Brass freeze plugs with clevite cam bearings
Cast crank turned 10/10 with clevite main bearings
Rebuilt rods with arp wavelock bolts and clevite bearings
Speed Pro Hyperutectic flat top pistons with speed pro moly rings
Assembled with all clearances checked $600

heads and intake $1100
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060arpm

cam $88 (give or take)
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/388/XE268H-10.aspx

LUNATI SBC SMALL BLOCK CHEVY HYDRAULIC lifters $49
engine stand from Oreilly's $80
cloyes double roller timing chain set $30
melling HV oil pump and pickup $31
edelbrock 1411 carb $259
HEi dizzy $71
throttle bracket $24
dipstick $13
hooker shortie headers $155
oil pan from ebay $35
water pump from summit $18
balancer from pulled 305tbi
plugs & wires used off the old motor (brand new)
pushrods from advance auto $28
oil w/zinc supplement and oil filter $30
entire serpentine assem. off old motor
* flexplate - summit racing $30 153tooth 2-piece rms 10.75in bolt pattern
* will try to use the same starter (parallel bolt holes) if diff. needed $44 advance auto
serpentine belt- autozone $30 for use with smog pump delete rerouting (960k6)

still need VCover Gaskets $18, open element air filter?, temp gauge sender $10, fuel pressure reg. w/ return spout?, thermostat $8, and VC breathers $15 almost there!!!!!!!!!

way too much money but smiling all the way

 

Satisfaction when complete from doing it yourself.......PRICELESS

 

exactly, as the saying goes...

built, not bought

 

thnx fellas that will make my wife feel better. just a few more things on the list to get but the thing that has me stuck is the fuel pressure reg. what is the best kind to get for a budget build there seem to be a million different kinds? thanx for the help!

 

Most people here are using a mallory with return port. That is what I have at the moment for my carbed v6. I believe the part # is 4309.

 

thnx but, hey i have a question about the edelbrock performer rpm vortec intake 7116. what size plugs did you guys end up using? I ordered the summit chrome plug 4 packs. I figured that the intake probably took all standard sizes but when I start screwing them in they go about half way and then stop like they are cross threading but i don't think that they should be.

who else is using this intake? what plugs did you use? do I have the right ones? and what size allen wrenches do I need for the larger plugs?

 

they should be 3/8 npt, i believe the plugs are tapered a bit maybe giving you a sense that theyre stripping?

 

yeah they get really tight when they get about 1/2 way down I guess when they get as far down as possible then I will just stop. So I won't damage anything. thx

 

If they fit good then I would leave them. As stated above pipe plugs are a tapered thread. Everything I have seen on an intake has always been a pipe thread, except normal bolt locations like carb and thermostat housing, so I would bet you are good to go.

 

i always use rtv on the threads as well, teflon tape is ok, but i found the rtv to seal better.

 

Well its about that time I guess ill start taking the tranny loose from the 305 and take thhe serp assm. Loose from the 350 then find some bolts to screw into the heads to connect the leveler and come along. Ill have to take the carb off also while I'm at it I'm changing the front and rear seal in the tranny too.

 

FINALLY, the motor has made it into the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It still not running yet but at least its in and I can start making all the necessary connections. I used all the same type sensors as was on the 305 just so I would not have to change anything. If the rain will let up this week when I get off work I will try to hook up the PS,ALT,AC,and put the radiator back in. I think I will have to reroute the tranny lines to go around the headers. and then connect the starter.

 

You shouldnt have to mess with the tranny lines

Thanks for the update, its been a while

 

ok got a rookie quest. I let the motor completely down and it is in fact resting on the motor mounts with the tranny hanging, waiting on the tranny crossmember but with all the weight back in the car the gap between the body adn wheels is still there i'll attach a pic of what I mean. is this 350 that much lighter than the 305 or is something wrong with my shock (which are prolly stock)? I knokw for a fact that all of the weight of the motor should be in the car (on the springs) as we know a dollar is 6in long.

 

The weight of the tranny helps some but I would think that the car may need to roll a few feet to see exactly what you have.

 

thx for the quik response. b/c of work adn church I don't/won't have alot of time to work on it for about a week but I will be trying to get the tranny all the way in and all of the acc. hooked up and the radiator back in and so on. ya know; trying to get it ready to fire up for the first time. I was scared that the shocks may have locked or something, idk.

 

rain rain go away, so i can work on my car today!

 

If only it were that easy. I would like a little cooler weather because it is 110 plus in my shop. Can you help out there?

 

wish I could. every time I step outside with time to work on it its either raining or waaaaaayyyyy too hot. then on the good days I end up with something else to do

 

I know only too well. My main problem at the moment (getting close to the finish) has been spending most of my time and money (did get a T56 though) on house repairs. I have two main projects left then I get time to work on the cars.

 

ok now I am about to connect t eh radiator and water pump to the heater core. I bought this water pump from advance auto Part No. 58-320 it does not have a smaller water pipe like some of teh more expensive ones. and the intake that I have is summit part no. edelbrock vortec 7116. and a stock radiator. now connected to the fire wall and heater core is the stock heater hose setup with the vacume valve thingy.

how do I put this together to keep the core hot for heat and which port on this intake is for water flow? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I will try to put some pics up after
work. and do I still need the charcoal canister with a carbd 350 with power brakes? I don't think so.

 

Here u go

 

I believe the port on the passenger side front that has the silver / chrome plug is for the heater. Take that plug out and get the right size pipe to hose adapter. Match your thread size and heater hose size.

 

Some more pics

 

from the front passenger side of the intake to the heater core then from the other the side of the heater core to the radiator I know that this was a simple question but thank you for helping me. the intake on the OEM 305tbi had the hose connected to the back of the intake and then thru that funky heater hose vaccume line thingy. I just couldn't see how it went.