if you think you can build a 383 for cheap youd be wrong, i already made this mistake

 

I didn't suggest you spend 25k.I did however suggest you spend a bulk of the money on the overheads.If you want more details about that,please post your interest.

 

You make a good point. I was just pipe dreaming, honestly. Since I really don't know much about tuning, I posed the question. I've actually run about a half tank of it in my truck before and it ran AMAZING (stock 89 c1500 305). Better performance, mileage, sound, and even the smell.

I'm going to spend what I can afford to spend periodically. I've saved enough to at least buy the block (saving on shipping, summit's warehouse is close). I'm guessing 8-12 months to build with my limited budget. Honestly the drivetrain is going to be the most expensive part of the build. I can do the body work myself, and believe me I have lots planned on it as well. I've just spent time in the past drooling over the high dollar crate motors and thinking how I would love to have that kind of money Nothing hostile about the post.

 

Your buying a bare block from Summit??.

 

I was thinking the one that vetteoz had pointed out was a good deal. Compared to finding a block local that may or may not be in good shape and then finding a good local shop to do the work, my thought is that it is a decent deal. Maybe I'm wrong?

 

youll have to have a shop work on it anyways. by the time you buy a bare block from a company your still spending more than if you got a linee bores and all that stuff on a used block

 

The summit block is suppose to be machined ready to go but id have a shop check it out to be sure

 

There are crash running low mileage donors to be had.The reason why I asked was the thought of all the small stuff that would nickle dime you that you would get with a donor but not with a bare block.You would be amaze how much that can add up.

 

...so then, the summit block is a GOOD thing? I can pick it up at the warehouse and save on the shipping.

 

stock low miles block is better than a summit block

 

Its up to you, I dont see a problem using a summit block...its machined and clearanced for stroker crank already... i'd just check to see how well the machine job is to be 100% sure of it before using.

A stock block you may pick up for 50-100 bucks and hope its in good condition. It will still need all the bearings removed, hot tanked, cleaned and dried. Clearanced from stroker crank, bored over abit, and whatever else that may need done. Hopefully mains are in good shape. Machine work will cost you 400-600 bucks depending on the shop and how much work is needed. Not anymore cost effective IMO

 

As I said,I cherry picked parts from different companies for my stroker.The rods I chose was the press fit Scat stroker clearance with ARP bolts.That resolves the block issues.Those are a big bang for your buck in my opinion.If you go the donor route for a engine and want a roller block,go 1996 or above.When I spoke about a low mileage crash donor I was talking about buying the whole pick-up truck that you strip and then turn the the rest for scrap.Here in Roch,NY scrap yard is paying .13 a pound which doesn't sound like much but adds up so you get back some of the purchase price.When I bought my donor vehicle I think I remember getting back about haft of the purchase price of it and then have all the parts I would ever want.Again bolts,brackets,alt,valve covers,timing chain covers,it goes on and on of costs with buying into a bare block.The other thing I like over buying a Summit bare block is one you have machined gets individual attention and not something that is mass produced.But do what makes you comfortable.

 

i tried those rods, two sets of stock rods, eagle rods, and bryants and they all hit the block a little but came into contact with my cam. just a warning, hopefully that doesnt happen to you

 

Not sure what happened in your case.We of course check all those clearances too.Found on the block a paper clip's wire diameter is just about right.Hit cam??.Big cam??.Hummm

 

stock lt1 cam

 

Funny you should mention that. A while back I emailed Comp about the cam for this motor. Here's their response:

"In a stroker application, the crank can actually come in contact with the lobes. We have to reduce the base circle of the cam."

 

hence, small base circle cam.

my friend built his using a 6'' rod instead of 5.7 like i did with no problems and a bigger cam

 

We found on off shore stroker cranks that machine work QC is all over the map.Journals that are tapered to journal grinds that are offset to achieve various strokes all on the same crank no two alike.We stuck to Howards crank because of that.Also Scat makes rods with ARP bolts that are stroker clearanced and ones that are not.I would have to dig up the part number.Been awhile since I looked at that.

 

Actually the 6" rods are more likely to have rod interference with the cams than the 5.7 rods.We chose the 5.7 rods because I don't like using ring spacers on a street vehicle that the 6" rods need.

 

I built this motor on a budget and love it! Fast and sounds awesome all within what you are looking to do.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e/viewall.html

Just expect to see 380-390hp not 440. They are running no accessories and open headers. Total cost $3200

Maybe around 360 w/o the 1.6 rockers and spacer but $300 cheaper. Also you can likely use your carb for now, harmonic balancer, timing cover, etc so the build will be even cheaper depending on what you have for parts lying around.

I can't imagine you can do any better for the money... However you wont be getting your stroker...

If you want more info or direction let me know because I built one from the ground up ad love it, but dont want to go off on something your not interested in.

Side note: I personally don't think roller cams are worth the money for someone on a budget... maybe its just me but if your looking for a budget motor in the 3-400hp range it would be a waste.

 

While we are talking about strokers and cam interference and well cams in general.Here is a interesting read from David Vizard:

Valve Train
Here we come to what might well be described as a hypercritical topic. Failure here can and usually does mean giving away 20 hp and 20 lbs.ft. of torque (and usually more) for no advantage in any other area. The first rule of thumb here is that whatever worked for lift before the stroke was increased needs to increase in at least the same proportion. That means either by the cam profile or rocker ratio or a combination of both. Also if the cam used before the stroke increase was perfect as far as event timing went, it won’t be after that extra stroke comes into play. If you know what the optimal lobe centerline angle is for a performance head engine with a stock displacement then figure that with the same heads but a bigger displacement the cams lobe center angel (LCA) will need to be tightened up. Typically you can expect that for every 16 to 20 cubes increase the LCA will need to be tightened by one degree. Don’t get caught up in the delayed intake valve closure trap where the only change made is to delay the point at which the intake closes. Sure it will make more top end hp, but it won’t do anything positive as far as torque is concerned. You can maybe add a few more degrees duration but getting the LCA right will pump up both torque and hp.

 

Heck-if you want to go budget,here is 108 combos:

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

 

Callies compstar rods offer excellent clearance. I got .400" lobes clearing fine with 6" rod and 3.75 callies crank

If you are hitting small cams then first make sure its in right. Eagle h beams on my old 383 also cleared fine. .383" lobes. Had arp 8470 bolts

 

Yeah Orr.Something about his post didn't sound right to me either.

 

is a 350 out of the question? my 350cid LT1 made 425 rwhp with the stock LT1 heads on it. -cnc ported. stock crank, stock rods, stock pistons.
stock oil pump, stock oil pan

that is a pretty dang cheap combo, imo.

 

i didnt do anything wrong they just decided they didnt like me

 

hmm thats interesting. Something would have to be WAY wrong to hit a stock LT1 cam. Rods way oversized or something. Sure they sent you the right rods/crank?

All the rods hit the cam? Hit the stock cam?

 

yes, I want a 383 stroker.

 

X2

 

why? if you saved all that money on the shortblock, you could get a good set of heads and make well over 400rwhp with a 350. you will be making more power than you would with a 383 that had stock vortecs on it.

 

we built a 383 lt1 last year with a cc305 cam. -bigger than the stock cam. no probs with rod contact on the cam. had eagle sir i-beams in it. 5.7".

 

A 350 just seems too cliche. I know a 383 isn't much better, but it's just a personal preference. I'm not really concerned about making huge HP numbers. I'd get in enough trouble with a 300hp motor, let alone 400+

I will say, however, that cc305 cam has a decent sound to it.

 

they all tapped it a little on the sides but 5 and 6 hit alot. stock aluminum rods stock 96 or 97 lt1 cam

 

...but no-one will ever know its a 383 unless you walk around telling everyone its a 383.
if you dont want/need power, thats understandable. but at the same time, you don't need a built shortblock, either. a stock rotating assembly and a stock block should work fine. then you can spend more money on the rest of the car. you will not break the stock rotating assembly with 300hp.

 

The first race car I ever worked on was when I was in high school. My auto shop teacher and I built a 383 for his modified, and proceeded to spank their asses that whole next year. I eventually moved on to building cars for NASCAR and ARCA teams, but I still have a fondness for the 383. It's a sentimental thing, I guess. I'm dead set on it.

 

can you hook me up with some sb2.2 stuff? i need a set of heads/intake.

 

SURE!

http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance...55889/10002/-1






....seriously though, if I had the connections for that, I'd have gotten parts for myself. I was a body hanger, not a mechanic. I know that all the engines get torn apart after the races to check the data. After that, I have no idea what happens to the parts. I would assume sent to the scrapyard because they're used up.

 

Digger.The place to go to get good used NASCAR parts is the Indy Drag Racers Auction.

http://www.racersauctionandtradeshow.com/index.php

We have been going there for over 20yrs.One yr we bought a oval track solid lifter roller cam and kit for a SBC which everyone laugh at and said we couldn't win with it in a Super Gas car.That was the yr we won a national event in Canada London Ont.Got to go loaded to bid $$$$ and stay the whole wkend.And I am not talking with $500 bucks.Indy cylinder heads used to own this event.Dave Dayton started it.Got to book a room NOW to get a place close.Take all the measuring tools with you,mark down the lot numbers,Time to bid is early Friday,early Sat and late Sun.It's a buyers market then before the auction fever takes hold from the too dumb and restless.Review the parts as I said before they go over the auction block.Do not bid on stuff you haven't looked at first,but there is two tons of good useable parts there if your smart about it.

 

Naww.Look at my post.NASCAR owners have all kinds of engine programs where some the the engines never see any track time.Childress and Henrick both sold at this event.Might be something for you to take advantage of.

 

You might also want to check out 2nd chance race parts. Basically a NASCAR parts pawn shop in Mooresville, right near most of the teams. The selection of parts has gotten a lot better over the years

www.2ndchanceraceparts.com

 

The reason why I didn't talk about racingjunk.com is some of that came from the Indy auction where they bought it cheaper there and now are selling for a profit.Yeah I plea guilty of doing that.

 

I won't fault you for it. If you can make some money, then by all means. As long as your asking price is reasonable. That's just smart business on your end!

 

Yeah short of show specials direct from manufactures,swap meets are sometimes the worse place to buy parts because you buying at another profit level.For yrs we where gone in the winter as a vendor 3 wkends a month.Went through 7 low mileage Suburbans.All the small hard core SBC parts purchased at auctions.LOL we had one routine where we bought low at a auction in SYR,NY and sold one wk later at the Indy auction at premium pricing.For yrs it was over 100% profit.No kidding!!!.You would be very surprised how much money you can make on one dyno pull valve springs.And no come backs.We had customers following us for that from one swap meet to another.Boxes and boxes of Isky valve springs.

 

Very nice! I wish I had the knowledge of engine parts to do that. Maybe some day. So on to my 383.

What else is standard that I haven't asked about? I've heard a lot about ARP bolts, ARP studs, etc. Are they really that much stronger?

 

yes

 

Sound like a long term storage for a bare block.We have used LPS 3 for that case.They say it works with no rust for 2 yrs and I am telling you it works.Some guys don't like it because of it's paraffin base is hard to remove.Thing is isn't that the point??.You have to clean for assembly everything no matter what you use.

 

Direct from COMP:

"I would go with the following cam.

12-702-8. Duration @ .050 236/236 Lift is .550/.550 and we would custom grind it on a small base circle. This will give you the sounds that you are looking for. "



I have absolutely no idea what I'm looking at. Can any of you guys translate the greek for me, please?

 

its a small base cam, .550/.550 lift, 236/236 duration. they didnt say what the LSA was did they?

 

Thats why I dont like Comp cams "tech". The cam they specified is the old magnum solid roller series on a 110lsa. You dont need solid roller and definately shouldnt use one for your street goals.

If you do any roller cam, do a hyd roller. Else keep it flat tappet hydraulic if the block isnt set up for roller.
IF you are buying the summit block, I think that was the 1 pc rear main factory roller cam style block correct? If so good choice and keep it hyd roller cam. Run the little thumper with good success or run the Comp XE282HR cam on a 110 lsa...it should have alittle bit of lope to it and make good power. Or run their CC306 cam withe vortecs, that should work. I believe that is the 08-306-8 cam. Do a search for that cam in the LT1 world and you'll see the idle it makes! very nasty but makes strong top end power on heads that arent great on the exhaust side.

 

LOOK.I am going to be very direct here.First.You very much need to purchase David Vizard's book how to.Second.You need to plot out the SCR long before you choose ANY cam.Not that has anything to do with a race car engine only...........But that determines what kind of cam you need.Why,because THAT IS HOW IT WORKS.OK???????.Gezzzz!!!.