So I've a 4 bolt main standard bore 350 block sitting in my room and I've decided I want to build a 383 with decent horsepower and some form of manners since it will be daily driven. I've made a list of some of the basic parts that I'd like to put on it but would like some input on whether or not I've made a few good choices if I want to hit around 450hp at the flywheel. Any suggestions on different parts would be greatly appreciated. And I would also like to know if I could use the RPM Air Gap intake from Edelbrock with a 14" diameter air cleaner with a 3" tall filter?

Scat 383 forged rotating assembly
Federal Mogul Performance Super Duty Series Rod Bearings
Federal Mogul Performance Super Duty Series Main Bearings
Forged KB Icon Pistons with Pins
Sealed Power/Speed Pro Moly Piston Rings
Scat Pro Comp I-beam Cap Screw Forged Connecting Rods
Scat 4340 Forged NEW Crank Shaft
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=18784

Edelbrock Vic Jr. heads
215cc intake ports
64cc combustion chambers
2.080'' Int/1.600'' Exh valves
1.550'' valve springs
.650'' max lift
7/16'' rocker studs
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...rentProductId=

Lunati bracket master II cam and lifters
Adv. Duration: 292°/292°
Gross Lift: .480''/.480''
RPM Range: 2000-6000
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/101...rentProductId=

Flowtech headers
Tube Size 1.5"
Collector Size 2.5"
http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowtech/387/1...rentProductId=

Edelbrock RPM Air gap intake
Maximum Power/RPM Range: 1500-6500
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...rentProductId=

SS Style Hood
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...2-SS-Hood.html

 

Also I'm not sure what kind of Carb I should run with it either so suggestions on that would be helpful too.

 

For the money you spend on the edelbrock heads you can get some NICE AFR's that will certainly make great power. I dont like Edelbrock much. I'd seriously consider converting to a roller cam.

A 230/230ish @.050 roller cam + AFR's should hit 450 hp easy. Maybe more. Should be managably smooth in a 383 I imagine.

Also, those headers are god awful. You cant cheap out on headers/exhaust when you're talking about trying to make the kind of power you're talking about with the types of cams you'll be running.

 

Use a different cam. Lunati voodoo or comp xe in around 276-280 adv duration would be much better. 230 deg around .050"

Use a bigger header tube. 1 5/8 inch atleast

Heads are alittle big for what you need. For the money hard to beat jegs brand 195cc

 

Buy David Vizards "Small Block Chevy" book and look at some of the builds in the back of the book. Follow one of those. You have the wrong heads, camshaft and headers. And, at only 450HP, you don't really need a forged rotating assembly (hell, you don't even need a 383).

 

Everyone needs a 383.

If he wants 450hp, streetable, some top end heads and a 383 will do it easily. Not sure a 350 can really be that streetable and well-mannered at that level.

 

It's just something I've wanted to build for awhile and I know it can make the power I want so I figured why not?

 

It is a natural progression that your building because you want more. The approach to take in the planning is not to limit yourself for the long term.What I mean is in two yrs from now you again want more and your finding the bottom end isn't up to par to handle the next upgrade. It is not uncommon that guys get bored with what they have and want to add-on to it.

The bottom end isn't where power is made short of stroker changes, compression increases and rod length. Here I am saying I am in the group that believes longer rods do matter,but on the street I don't like 6" rods because of the pin location requires ring spacers. Mainly the bottom end is all about strength and how reliable it can handle power increases and rpm increases. A example of bad choices is to go low dollar on a crank and then build a high rpm top haft adding on later big nitrous shot. That is a grenade waiting to go off. Another example is the bearing you choose. Race bearing have a harden surface and on the street they don't imbed dirt at all as the Kings bearing do. That saves in many cases damage to the crank.

Machine work to the block should not be done until the machine shop has the pistons in hand to finish bore the block to the pistons your going to use. The big picture plan you need to have in mind long before that includes SCR's decking the block to somewhat standards of .010 down or 0 deck and from the SCR's knowing the DCR's given a planed cam choice and head selection. Here I suggest you do not go beyond 8.5 in a DCR. The reason is the grade of today's gas is all over the map and you want to know no matter where you fill up,your going to be good to go.

I have to leave right now,but I will post some suggestions on parts later on.

I just want to add that a bigger engine is more accepting of a bigger cam and needs larger intake runners to a degree. It is a balancing act to pick not too big of a intake runner for the street. The crossover from race to street is a definite clear line bringing in intended use.